Ok, thanks guys. If its only 1/2 a tooth off and it for sure not going to hit a valve then I guess it will be ok to put in. Ill update you so we can finally get a conclusion on this topic.
Ive read every post that has to do with timing belts being 1/2 a tooth off and did not get an answer. Ive reset the timing several times and still get the same result, the timing is 1/2 a tooth off. Im waiting to get it right before pulling the pin on the tensioner. Ok, #1 cylinder is at TDC...
I just bought a 1Gb AWD and it came with a brand new manual steering rack installed. The guy said it had larger gears so it wouldnt be too rough or hard to turn. Now my question is.. How many DSMers accually have manual steering (not stock or broken power steering)? Are there any noticable power...
I was reading my school (UNF) newspaper and there is an article about a world wide college contest for a gas saving device. The winner gets $50,000. UNF in Jacksonville, FL was the only U.S. college to make the top 10. Guess what there design is....water injection. I thought water/meth injection...
Well, i did a compression test but only on one cylinder becasue thats all it takes to need a rebuild. Guess what I got...0. And there is coolant in all my cylinders. So, looks like my HG is gone and its time to tear it apart... again. What do you guys suggest while its apart? Cometic HG with...
Heres one for you guys. How much could I get for a 1gb 1992 Eclipse GSX. Brand new paint job, dark shadow gray with black top(like stock), Super clean, like new interior, Small 16g, Fidanza flywheel, new clutch, pressure plate, K&n, 6bolt swap, 4 bolt rear, new bottom end<100miles, 2.5in...
Im going to try to start it as soon as im back in town. If it doesnt start im going to do a compression test. Ive been working on this for a year and cost me 3000$, that a whole lot for a college student and I still havent got it on the road. If i get bad compression results it looks like ill...
It turns over fine, it feels like its turning over too easy and there is no resistance from the compression. I will do a compression test and post the results. But how would the car getting to 3/4 temperature for less than 5 min blow a HG? Rebuild less than 500miles ago too. :(
Alright, I was driving down the road just fine. About 15 min into the drive, the temp gauge started to climb and got to about 3/4 of the way up. So, I pulled over before it got any hotter to check it out. Turns out my heater hose popped off. There was still a bunch of coolant coming out so it...
ok. I have a late 92 eclipse. It had a 7bolt engine/4bolt rear but i guess the dual piston calipers didnt come untill 1993. But my single piston caliper is still larger than the laser caliper.
Alright, both my 93 GSX front calipers locked up. Im leaving tomorrow to go back to college so I dont have time to order/rebuild my calipers. I read this article http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/275201-1g-brakes.html So I know the 1ga fwd laser front calipers have a 2/8" smaller...
I recently read the tech thread of making inexpensive coil-overs http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/282664-how-build-coil-plug-setup-cheap.html
It looks like a good idea thats cheap and works. My questions are..
How much better than stock is this?
Are there any...
Mine did the same thing. Sounded like a tractor, I had a tapping sound, and i hit like 12psi with no acceleration. Turns out I had 7 missing exhaust manifold studs and skipped timing a tooth. I would check for exhaust leaks then double check your timing.
I have a core 2 duo e6300 overclocked to 3.0ghz. 500fsb, 6x multiplyer, 2gb ddr2 800 ram, geforce 7900gt ko graphics card, and a gigabyte motherboard(ds3 i think)
My timing is fine, tension is good, all marks line up. Its a 6bolt block with a 6 bolt head. Is there any way that it could be a jdm block thats different than a stock block?
Ok, Since I put my rebuild engine together I have had this horrible noise. I thought it might be the valves hitting the cylinders so I checked the timing, All marks line up pretty close to perfect. Then I did a compression check, 180 on every cylinder. So, i pulled the head anyway. Sure enough...
Im not saying that I would unplug it. Im just asking what are the effects of unplugging it. Becasue if a significant exhaust leak were to render the o2 sensor close to useless than your car would ACT as if the o2 sensor were unplugged.
uggg, im going to have to pull the head for this one. 2 broken studs and at LEAST 2 stipped holes....Not going to be fun at all. But wouldnt an extreme leak be the same as unplugging your o2 sensor, and if so, do you get the same effects when it is unplugged?
Ive done alot of searching and got a good idea of what an exhaust leak will do if it is before the 02 sensor. But my question is, how significant can these problems be? I have NO power at all, if i floor it, it take about 5-10 seconds to rev from 2000-4000rpms in 1st gear. I cannot drive in any...
I know how to set timing. Dowel pins are at 12:00, marks all line up. Assuming crank is lined up, If i cannot get to +5 advanced by moving the CAS, does that mean my timing belt is off by like a tooth?
I am aware that they are independent of eachother. Im asking if you can tell if your timing belt is off, even by just 1 or 2 teeth, just by trying to set the base timing?
If I hook up my timing light and I cannot get it to 5 degrees advanced no matter how much i turn the CAS, Does that mean my belt needs readjustment? OR, can I get to 5 degrees advanced and still have the timing belt be off 1 or more teeth?
I have a manual steering rack in my 93GSX. Its really not hard to turn at all, I think its easier than a non-working PS car. Like everyone said, you dont have to worry about leaking PS fluid and it cleans up the engine bay alot. Its also going to be my DD(when i get it to run for more than 15...
I let mine run for like 15 minutes ad no change. Im going to do a compression check and change my oil, filter, and add some stabalizer and see if there is any change.
Mine sounds a little different and doesnt go away when the car warms up.
Also, I seafoamed it, which didnt make any difference. And i have 3g lifters.
What else could it be?
YouTube - GSX engine start after rebuildIm pretty sure its not lifter tick. Im thinking timing is off, HG is bad or not on perfect, or valves are messed up. What do you guys think?Its not my car but I have the exact same noise. I just rebuilt the engine too. Mods are in profile.
If the thermostat is bad and is not opening there will be very little circulation of coolant which could make a big difference at idle, also the fans cool down the engine at idle alot too becasue there si no airflow without them.
im having close to the same problem. I alos have a walbro fuel pump which came with my car and i dont know if its a 190 or 225. Also I dont have a fpr so if its a 225 that might be both of our problems.
Ya, it was sooo much work. 6 bolt top end and rebuild 6bolt bottom end swap, entire interior swap, now trying to accually get it running... But it is fun and when I finally get it on the road it will be oh so sweet. And whats wrong with the breather filter? rice?
Heres some pics of my GSX (gray) and donor GST. It doesn't run right and doesn't have a windshield but its coming along. New "dark shadow gray" paint, but the dirt/dust doesn't help any. Ill have some nice pictures soon. Mods are in my profile.
So, instead of the coolant hoses going in and out of the firewall(to heater core) you can just loop them two together? Will this effect the engine cooling any considerable amount since there is less heat being disipated by the coolant?
I used a 32mm (i think) socket with a regular 1/2in rachet(sp) and I 6ft barbell for weightlifting and just hung on the end. The bar was like 1in ID 1.25in OD.