I'm doing the same on my 2G GSX, But My 1G didn't come with ABS so i'm not sure how the lines run. I ordered a proportioning valve from willwood and I do have to redo the lines for it. Its not to difficult to do though, and its pretty cheap. the tube bender doesn't cost very much. Just remember...
I also searched for a rear kit for my 2G touring AWD. you won't find one, but there is good news though! You don't need one as far as a larger rotor and caliper. I did a lot of research and consulted with Willwood brake systems and the info i found was great. If the only reason you want a rear...
True I agree with JayRolla, even if you put the money into the turbo, you just won't see the performance as you would of the 4G63, and experience with both 1st gen and 2nd gen DSMs, it doesn't take a lot to go fast. I got my 1st gen GSX with stock internals and a stock 14B, no boost controller...
Oh and by the way JDM is not a brand name either. be careful went purchasing performance items on EBAY!!!! you can get some ggod things on there, but when it comes to performance parts I wouldn't dare buy anything again after that turbo kit.
I actually bought a T3 turbo kit from Ebay from SS autochrome. It was for my 2G. It came with manifold, turbo, external wastegate, wastegate dump pipe, & BOV. I don't recommend getting any kit like this. due to tha fact it will cost you a lot more money, because you will have to buy so much...
Actually I'm in the proccess of overhauling my rear end. I ordered energy suspension complete rear control bushing, end links, sway bar bushings. new wheel bearing and seals. the CV boots were still good, and for cost i'm not replaceing them now, but I plan on going with Drive shaft shop's level...
well when I rebuild motors I always use white lithuim grease, check to see what is in the grease. if it has any lead or graphite materials. it can scratch the metals. and many start up lub greases have that.
well if your downpipe came off. your o2 sensor is still there, cause its off the o2 housing thats connected onto the back off the turbine. and your downpipe just connects to the o2 housing. Unless you have a different turbo setup and have a custom downpipe. Just put on the DP and see how it runs
you are correct to believe it will not build pressure, if you are using the original o2 housing that still reverts the wastegate door to the down pipe, cause all the exhaut will come out of it instead of powering the turbine. you can do a couple of things. one is to try and plug the opening. but...
I agree. your downpipe should not have come off unless it was not bolted on correctly. and the first thing you should do is find out why it did not stay on and fix it and put it back on. Even though it really won't hurt your engine to run off the o2, you are losing power plus depending on where...
Oh ya BIG thing! if you are doing it yourself..........NO MIG WELDING....... must be ARC or TIG. mig is not strong enough, and the inspectors will check the welds. I really recommend going to SCCA and printing out the rules & regulations on roll cages. its only about 10 pages long, and really...
also you can get roll cage accessories like gussets, 4 bolt tubing flanges and tubing end spindles. oh and if you plan on doing a bolt in cage and are going to sleeve the tubes together, the sleeves must be at least 8" long and have at least 2 grade A 5/8" bolts. but you can get all of that @...
I'm building 2 different roll cages for both my DSMs. the 2G will have a much stronger roll cage than my 1G, because I will be doing road coarse with it. and i'm doing it myself. a couple of things to know, I'm pretty sure NASA is the sam, but SCCA requires a 3/8" hole drilled in several areas...