Unfortunately, something like that won’t work for us. Not all DIN connectors are wires the same and you also need a contact closure to activate the input on the head unit.

Exactly, this will keep it nice and clean.

It looks like the 3S guys have figured it out. Super simple. I’ll go RCA and use a Bluetooth module powered off the DIN connector. I may try to figure out the closure contact form the tape/CD unit so nothing needs to be inserted...

This is the same diagram just showing the header pin out vs the cable pin out (inversed)

Correct, the 13-pin connector. I found the pin out info, it appears to be common across all (most?) Mitsu head units.

Thanks but I am looking for something a little older (~1990) and would like to have it all wired up behind the dash rather than use a front panel input.

I would like to keep stock looking head unit in my car but add Bluetooth.Has anyone used the cd input to add RCAs? This would allow me to attach a Bluetooth module. I've attached a couple pics of head units I am looking at.Does anyone have the pin outs for the CD input?

I have a radio bezel on the way and need to make a plate to mount a gauge and wbo2 in it before it gets here.Would someone mind measuring the size of one of the openings as well as how much overhang space is available past the opening on the back side of the bezel?Thanks!

i turqued my head using a manual that told me to torque from the inside out??? i have ARP studs and a metal headgasket, the car has not been started yet. should i retorque from the inside out or is the way they told me to ok?

i turqued my head using a manual that told me to torque from the inside out??? i have ARP studs and a metal headgasket, the car has not been started yet. should i retorque from the inside out or is the way they told me to ok?

Can you put those files into excel for me?

The going rate for labor is $50, so there is $300. What about the tools and R&D costs? There are only a few companies that put in the R&D for these products and it’s not like they are millionaires. If companies like SS keep copying and undercutting the real shops where is the incentive for...

There is the key, you weren't trying to make a living doing it. I bet you almost any product on the market is being sold for a fraction of the cost it takes to actually make it. But in the real world you have to pay for labor (which is probably around $50 an hour in a niche market), R&D, and...

I would love to see you create a better product, sell it for dirt cheap to a niche market and make a living for yourself doing so.

Might as well stir it up a little more. :Dhttp://www.dsmloggers.com/DSM/sscrap2.jpg

You have to remember those people that left feedback probably did so as soon as they recieved the product.

OBX = SSAutochrome = XS Power They are all the same company changing their names to ditch the bad rep.Care for any more SSAutochrome humor? You are looking at a different car with a similar situation being held together with a hose clamp. http://www.dsmloggers.com/stuff/sscrap.jpgAnd...

Nope, I am running the amp in 4X mode and each speaker is getting 250w. I just didn't know what to do with the 5th and 6th speakers. Sounds like I am going to buy a cap for the tweeters and run them off of the front channel.

I have a 4 channel 1000w amp powered by 4 gauge wire to 2 Boston Acoustic 6X9s in back and Infinity components in front. I am not using a sub, I was just looking for some nice clean sound. The "tweeters" I am talking about in front are stock and I am starting to think they are small full range...

I am bypassing an old factory amp and all the wires are right there so I was just going to wire it up. Should I just run some new wires and power it off the deck?

Can I run one of the front tweeters and speakers off the same channel or is this gonna screw the amp up? How else should I do it?

Yes there is, it looks like it is time to replace it.

"o2v" is the front sensor that you are concerned with.

What software are you using, but yes you should have a choice between the front and rear sensor. No it generally will not throw a code. I didn't mean yours was a double post, it double posted me response so I edited it out.

Ah, double post.

Ok, are you sure that is the front sensor and not the rear? It looks like at 6800rpms you let off the throttle and thaat is why your timing dives like that, but up until that point your timing looks good for a 2G. Don't log the trims when you are trying to tune the high settings, the fewer...

Tracks are open, lets see some numbers.

I have already purchased a 4 X 100w RMS @ 4 OHM amp. I was going to run a channel to each of the fronts then do the wiring shown in the image above on the second 2 channels that will be run to the rears. Or what if I were to wire each of the front speakers to their own channel, run the 3rd...

Is this ok to do with any amp?http://www.dsmloggers.com/stuff/wiring.jpg

More like 150w per sub assuming a 4 ohm sub.

Well I got a nice pair of Boston Acoustic NX97 6X9s so if any speakers are going to get the power they are the rears. I have a secent set of Infinities in front. Maybe I will just go for the 4 channel.Would it be a bad idea to go with a cheaper high power 4 channel instead of a lower...

It looks like running an amp bridged will bring the distortion level to the same as running it on 2 ohm, is this correct?The Alpine and Rockford amps that I have been looking at have .3% distortion when run on 2 ohms. That doesnt sound bad.Will it sound funny if I run the fronts on the...

What is an exceptable level of distortion?

What if I were to run the rears on the right channel and the fronts on the left channel so I could still fade front to rear. Does different sound come from the rights and lefts? If so that probably wouldn't sound good.

What gauge speaker wire should I use when running two 4 ohm speakers in parallel?

I want to power my 2 front speakers and my 2 rear speakers with an amp. Should I get a 4 channel amp and run the 4 ohm speakers as is or should I get a 2 channel and run the 4ohm speakers in parallel and run the amp at 2 ohms. I would like to run a 2 channel amp in parallel at 2 ohms since...

This thread has a lot of good info in it let's keep it on topic.

Yes it will.

Yes you can but what I am saying is that the 16G and 550s offset each other pretty well.

http://www.bailey-eng.com/mafs.txt

Where did you get this information? Certainley not from RRE's tech articles...

This isn't sound advice, what might work on your fuel pump may not work on others especially since these cars are getting old.Keep you boost low until you can mod your fuel system. Whats the point of turning it up if you are risking damage?And it is VERY unsafe to rely on your ECU to...

Not with your mods and a 16G. I don't really care so much about making your car run rich I want to see if you can get that knock under control. If that works slowly increase your boost while tuning it at each boost level until you find the boost level where knock begins to show. You have way...

Yes they have knock sensors, what do you think gives the ECU the signal to pull timing? No loggers except for DSMlink have been coded to read it.PLEASE Turn your boost to stock and zero out your afc and make a log for me to look at.And you didn't have ANY leaks when testing it?

Have you tried lowering your boost to get the timing in spec?

Do those guys even sell a dog box?

You are running no IC for more torque??? :cry: WHO told you to do this?

Intake pipes are only one place that intake leaks can form. They are also very common at the injectors and intake mani gasket, and since you have replaced the injectors I think it would be very beneficial to do the test. You only have to remove the intake pipe to do it. Even if you don’t plan...

Yes, or an insufficient tune.I would really check for boost leaks and get a low boost log.