In case someone else runs into this problem as I just did. The wire is from the inside of the viscious coupler, in between each plate in the coupler is a ring that separates the plates, these rings come up and tear shit up and make hell.
Yes wire is coming out of there, I just pulled some pieces out of it now. Believe it is the center diff,.... not sure though. Have end clutch off and cover below it off too. It looks like it runs in line with the output shaft of the transfer case....Its right above the big drain bolt on...
This is my GF's 1ga auto..... Was installing a shift kit last night...
First stopped because the spacer plate was worn.
Took a closer look at the pan and found this... See pic....
Then found the source of where some wire is coming from.. see pic...Funny thing is the car shifts...
I think all 91's have a factory tranny coolers. Not a bad idea to put in a bigger one though, or I hear some people run two small ones inline with eachother
I'm having some bad boost creep, so bad that im maxing out my 190 pump.
-Big16g turbo, ported o2 housing
-3" downpipe and exhaust, no cat
-Evo8 injectors
-190 pump
-2g maf
-punishment fmic
-emissions deleted
-head studsSpikes to 25 psi and keeps creeping to 29.
So far I...
I turned down my boost, The boost seems to just come on later rather than sooner, 15 lbs around 3500 rpm and 20 lbs around 4500 rpm and it creeps from there to 23-24 lbs. I do have a boost leak at the throttle body seal.I messed with the open loop table, flattened out my timing and fuel...
I appreciate your opinion liquidx. My global setting was set the same as the tutorial as ecmlink shows. Supposedly the evo injectors flow 545, stock fuel pressure is 37 lbs. and it automatically calculates -17.6%. So why do you say its wrong.As far as the fuel and timing sliders ago, I will...
I just installed my wide band, gapped my plugs, re routed my vacuum lines. Car is running great. I did my idle tune over and cruise log to reset my maf comp after I fixed some boost leaks. I don't understand why my Global Deadtime on my fuel table has to be so high to keep my combined fuel trim...
This was 25 lbs of boost, pump gas, sputtering up top in 3rd and 4th. Runnins ngk 7 plugs gapped at .028. Any advice with what to change in my log? Thanks
Sounds like either your getting knock, or your sensor is picking up a bad vibration. Can you physically hear anything odd? What is happening is that your knock count is soo high its retarding the timing and just making it run like a ####y. Also double check to see if your base timing is at 5 deg.
I do have a 16g already on the car with the stock 1g intake manifold. I was asking if there is any proof from dyno sheets that this magnus smim street is actually worth the install with my turbo setup.
I may put a magnus smim street on my big16g car. I'm wondering if the gains would be worth it with the big16g, 3" exhaust, punishment fmic, and 650 injectors that im using for my setup. Are there any DYNO PROOF of this SMIM on a 16g Car ??Thanks guys
YES EXACTLY! Disconnected that wire and the gauge falls to cold, car then starts to run rough, connect it and the car runs better and gauge maxes out. Now would you think that sensor is BAD ? or the wire is grounding out somewhere? Is it common for that sensor to fail? BTW the car is a 1995 with...
Car has 155 psi of compression in all cylinders. We did not notice a sensor in the radiator at all? But two temp sensor in the water neck. UPDATE, we just unplugged the twoprong temp sensor plug and the fans would both come on. Turning a/c on turns the a/c fan on low. Gauge still shows same...
My friends 2g talon; as soon as it starts the temp gauge on the cluster goes straight to top, also the radiator fans do not come on at all, all fuses and relays are good, fans come on when relays are jumped though.-wires are good on temp sensors.WHATS WRONG?
pretty sure its not your motor mounts. Anyways, a good way to tell if the calipers is slightly sticking is to drive down the highway then when you stop SPIT on your rotor. Usually if bad one side will be smoking hott while the other is not. Don't touch it cause you could burn the hell outta your...
Ha ya I had that happen to me as well. Then the new clutch I installed drags. So inorder to correctly fix this problem you are supposed to step your flywheel so many thousandths or something. It can be adjusted out though but can be very difficult and does not take much to come out of adjustment.
NO NO NOThese are the only problems if your slave is good and clutch assembly;
Either your pressure plate is warped,
or
You DID NOT get your flywheel cut the right thousandths to match your new clutch and PP.
Well since your 18 and you own a dsm chances are you plan on doing a budget build anyways. I did the same thing, expect I use an safc and datalogger (oldschool). Im running evo8 injectors with 18-21 lbs on pump gas daily. My idc are usually close to maxed out, but they work and I paid really...
I know where I'm from it would not be considered "road worthy" and/or "illegal" through the DOT eyes. It is a regulation that crash beam is supposed to be there. If you ever got in a bad accident that motor would push right out of the way and whatever your hitting would slam through that fire...
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PLAIN SICK ILL NASTY!!! straight up badass. Im surprised that spikes that high with the stock sidemount.
My last 200k miles dsm I had to hold it in to get second, good to see yours lasted that long.
Thats badass! Congratulations. Did you redo the headgasket and motor? Or just pull off the valve cover, and replace the head bolts with studs? 6 bolt I assume?
Hey whats the purpose of the intake to block bracket? I mean if it all it does is hold a couple vacuum lines then why's it on the motor in the first place.
Damn, first off thats good news that its running great. My stock talon with a 3" exhaust, 14b and 450 injectors, was running 15 lbs spiking to 20. It ran great but I don't recommend it with out some supporting mods, its too easy to break stuff. For your assurance at least add a cheap datalogger...