+2 sounds like alternator or wiring for charging system.

snap pliers have worked for me several times. I have been able to set tensioner perfectly so that the pin slides right out on its own. +1^^ only requires a couple ft. lbs

Sounds like you got it figured out... Goodluck

Did you use threadlocker on the flywheel bolts before re-installing them?

Aside from the over heating problem have you checked all yoru vaccum lines? Overheating problem is most likely a leak in the system. Check oil for coolant and vise versa.

Check all your vaccum lines and leak test intake. How old is the fuel filter? Are the injectors stock?

Sounds like a timing issue. I would think if the ECU had leaking capacitors you would have neither fuel or spark. Have you tried adjusting the base timing? If it is firing and getting fuel then the CAS is working. Have you checked to make sure it isn't turned 180 degree's out?

Repair the ECU! My friend had the same problem and everything was fine afterwards.

Check vacuum lines and +1^^ on the battery issue.

Looks like a turbo bearing somehow ended up in there. Makes you wonder if there was really 20k of original miles on that motor? Good luck.

Stick with 272/272, Kelford's have proven well. Wait untill you have tuning capibilities and do everythign at once. Your built motor is nothing without a good tuning system.

I would start there and then check for vaccum leaks. Are you running the stock fuel pressure regulator?

Hopefully it is just air in the line but I know the clutch disc springs could fall out and cause this noise.

+1^^^

If you only plan on running gasoline you should be fine with 1000cc - 1200cc.

Don't bore, this is only to ensure the cylinders are straight when rebuilding. Not for displacement gains, and the more you bore the weaker your cylinder sidewalls become. I would stick with a 2.0L if you're doing any long laps. The amount of heat generated from the increased piston to rod...

Shop around, but just be careful not to buy someone else's mess. There are too many guys who seem to think it's easy to rebuild a car and after hacking the wiring harness realize they got into more than they expected and then sell there bs** to someone else.

If you know anyone with a cam angle sensor switch with them to check. If your fuel pump starts running then the crank sensor should be fine as that signals the fuel pump. Do you have a CEL?

You will need an Air/ Fuel wideband if you want some indication as to what conditions exist in the combustion chamber. From the sounds of it the stock FPR will be plenty enough. Do you plan on starting to tune the car? Did something happen to concern you with this?

Make sure to set the pedal adjust screw back out before bleeding the system . How old is the clutch fork and pivot ball? Check the wear in the clutch fork, road race engineering has a tech article on performing this.Sounds like master issue.

I ran the Race version on a 2.4L and it held to the end like a bat out of hell. I also run the Magnus V5 (EVO IX) and am really impressed with the craftsmanship and great heat dissipation. It all depends on what you are looking for out of the car. I would hold onto your money, go stock bolt...

Does seem too good to be true. As long as the title is clean and compression is decent it is well worth it. If he daily drives the car and you successfully drive it home, I'd say it's a steal.

Sounds like cam or crank angle sensor. Very touchy sensors on the DSMs. Do you have any check engine lights?

Could also be rear differential. Have you changed your fluids recently?

Sounds like it wasn't exactly in there all the way. I can't imagine to bad of problems with 5 gear unless you drive fast for extended periods of time.

Sounds like a few problems. Valve seals, guides and piston rings on 3rd cylinder if adding oil fixed your compression. I say valve seals or head gasket/ not having a flat head that's causing coolant to burn. Start the car and take off the coolant cap located on the radiator. If it's a head...

Get it fixed. It's not worth risking. If you do try it make sure you have AAA or your tools in the trunk. You won't lose coolant but it won't circulate properly and avoid high rpm.

If your valves are leaking you will see the blueish smoke from the oil burning. Start the car with the radiator cap off and see if any bubbling occurs. If so, most likely headgasket problem. Sounds like just the turbo though.

Im with Luv2 it sounds like a fuel problem. My friend had a similiar problem. The car ran fine for a real 10 seconds and then died. Can you get the car to operating temp by giving it gas to keep it going?

Simply Amazing!! Great work mixed with perfect driving. Just curious what kind of drivetrain setup he is running. I see its going back to Shep - dogbox? Also clutch and flywheel setup on this monster as a DD?

sure shot.. what type of o2 are you using? I've seen kits on dejon powerhouse that blocks off the wg hole.. Do I need to weld this whole shut... Theres no flapper just a hole where the internal gate setup would be.. thanks

I bought a fmic from godspeed on ebay. Its 3" in/out.. Do you think it helps to have 3" piping of would 2.5 be enough? If someone could just tell me what type of piping they use (bends, lengths, etc...) for a down flow turbo (bullseye 50 trim)? appreciate it

I am curious to see if anyone out there knows of someone or is willing themselves who bends intercooler piping for a fmic. I'd appreciate any help with that.

Any help guys?... I just need to know whether a recirculated O2 housing will work with my external wg off the manifold and a bullseye 50 trim that was never internally gated..

are you refering to the weld -up kit? Neither hole is shut... I dont see why a recirculated o2 housing wouldn't work? thanks again

sorry guys I'm bought a bullseye 50 trim so it was never internally gated. I just wasn't sure if my stock o2 housing would work... I most def will port it out or find a larger 2.5 o2 housing. So if I go this way with the WG off the manifold and dump tube of the WG then and o2 housing that is...

Alright so I bought the SBR manifold flanged for the tial 38mm. I am hooking up a dump tube from that but what about my O2 housing? Can I just port the stock o2 housing or is there something else i have to do?

I've been reading a bunch but still dont know what to do. I dont know whether to go external gate of manifold and if I do do I need a o2 dump tube or can I use a recirculated dump? Would I really get better spool up time if I were to go external gate off the o2 housing? I really dont like the...