My car is at my local dealership where they are telling me it won't start because my ECU is fried. I am getting spark out of one coil pack, but not the other. They tested both coil packs for resistance and tell me that they are both good. So they still insist that it is my ECU...Here's...

Awesome, thanks guys...my dreams of running a dsmlink will finally come true now!!:thumb:

My car went down due to the timing belt skipping a couple teeth (poor install from some previous work), and I ended up burning my ecu out in the process.The shop that the car is at says there could still be problems (even though the timing belt, tensioner pulley, etc has all been replaced...

RGdsmNewb, always good to see someone local to me on this board. I have my car at the dealership still (Northside), it'll likely have to be there for the duration of the work that needs to be done. Are you planning on any modifications?? I'm always curious to know/see what the other Edmonton...

Sounds good! You're right, i've been having trouble finding my exact ECU...I had no idea mine was different from other non '99 GSX's. I'll likely try to get into a dsmlink...i've always wanted to, but have never really looked too hard into it!Just wanted to check one thing though...the...

Okay, so here's an update:I did call the shop that did the head gasket work for me, and they did say that they would tow it over to them to take a look at it and possibly help me out with my issues. Unfortunately the dealership had already started working on my car (despite telling me they...

Okay, so apparently my timing belt has jumped a notch or two, so I am being told that I will now need to replace it, the water pump, tensioner belt, and all the other wonderful things that go along with that. This is awesome because I just had the head gasket replaced, and it would have been...

I will check my IC piping, I know what you're describing (and have experienced it a few times when i've blown the j-pipe off at the track).I will also have the shop check the coil packs, CAS and the CTS...let's hope it's the latter!Oh, and by the way...when I smell the "dark grey / black...

Okay, so I have been reading through these forums for a couple hours now, and have a bit of a feel for what I need to do. But prior to getting to physically involved, I figured i'd lay out the issue that I am having (for both posterity's sake, as well as to make sure I am not missing anything)...

Well, I picked the car up today...and it seems like it's running fine so far. I'm quite hesitant still, but we'll see how it goes. Seems like the new radiator, and re torquing of the studs did the trick...does this make sense??

Okay, so I talked to my mechanic, and he got everything put back together today. When he added coolant into the system, he noticed that there was a pretty significant leak in the radiator (air blowing out of it) and so does not recommend I drive it yet.So, t'row he's going to throw in a new...

Really appreciate all the info and suggestions, really goes a long way for a guy in my position!Car came back from pressure testing, and it showed no signs of any cracks...thank god.I mentioned to my mechanic to check the turbo oil-feed line, as well as that top cover gasket for any...

My current symptoms:1) Black exhaust / oil on front passenger side of motor. 2) Idle surge at idle (1000 - 1250 rpm jumps ever second) 3) Loss of oil. 4) White smoke coming out of tailpipe when stopped and at operating temperature when on the accelerator. 5) Temp gauge maxes out. (only...

Will do, thanks guys. I'll just tell the shop to order the head gasket straight from the dealership, and I already have the arp head studs coming in the mail! Let's hope that my issue is indeed a blown head gasket! In case this is useful to anyone else, my symptoms are (in order):1) Black...

I've got a leaking / blown head gasket and am going to be replacing it with a new cosmetic head gasket from extreme psi along with a set of arp head studs. The only thing I don't get is what "bore size" I should order. My motor is all stock (aside from the HKS 272/272 cams, my profile is up to...

Thank you all for your replies. I went to the dealership today to see how much a new boot would cost, and they are telling me that they cannot just order the boot in. Instead, they are telling me that they can only order the whole control arm peice and will need about 1.5 hours to install it...

I blew my front passenger tire hard while on the highway, and the loose/shredded tire appears to have torn/melted a rubber piece in the wheel well...attached are some pictures to take a look at. Can anyone tell me what this rubber piece is for?? I assume it just contains some grease, and will...

So I gently cranked the steering wheel from full left to full right quite a few times (~10 times each way) and the power steering pump/pully grinding alleviated a bit. It's definitely still whining though. Also, after doing this, i checked the p/s fluid reservior and it didn't even register...

Alright, so i figured out where it was leaking and reattached the loose hose! filled (actually, overfilled) the reservoir, and then bled out the air (ran car, cranked wheel slowly side to side, held 5 seconds against each stop).Now the power steering feels like it's back, but there is a...

Update: I filled the reservoir with PLENTY of p/s fluid, and (due to the garage floor being clean) noticed that it was gurgling out of a totally different spot. The p/s fluid is leaking out from the place indicated in the picture...I am having a hard time tracing the lines from the power...

Should I bother bleeding the system if it is already totally empty?? I tried putting in some lucas power steering stop leak in this morning, it is some syrupy stuff...pretty thick. Either way, I don't think I have it up to the minimum line on the dipstick, so i'll fill it some more tonight...

Okay, i've read through every single thread with the words "power steering" in the title, and although it's given me some ideas, I do want to start a new thread here as my issue seems different than the things I have been reading about.I park my car in the winter, but take it out once a...

Well, after over 50 miles of city driving, the car finally decided to start running almost normally...it's never taken this long to relearn on my previous SAFC-ii settings, so this was very surprising.At this point in time, it is no longer bogging/stuttering, but is idling higher than...

I agree, after much thinking, it seems way to coincidental for the battery to have died and these problems to have arisen exactly after jumpstarting it. They must be linked. I have been doing a lot of reading, and it looks like a blown alternator could be causing the problems I am describing...

Car died for an unknown reason (no lights were left on, the interiors may have been left on due to door not being tightly closed, but I am unsure), after jump starting it, it hasn't driven normally since. My SAFC-ii settings were all saved and un changed by the ECU restart, but it just doesn't...

Okay, so i'm driving home from work yesterday, and (from writing the posts yesterday, and reading the responses) instead of looking at my boost gauge to see where the stuttering happens, I decided to keep an eye on my rpms. I noticed that the stuttering was actually consistently happening at...

Yeah, that's along the lines of what I was thinking. I've been down to the track a couple times over the past few weeks, and it runs the quarter mile with no bogging whatsoever. I don't have a logger, but what I was thinking of doing is running the car, seeing if it bogs at a consistent...

Thanks, I was mainly hoping to verify that a boost leak can be pushed/spooled through, haven't noticed that happening to anyone in the numerous threads that i'd searched.

My car runs perfectly fine under mid-low throttle, but as soon as I pin it (WOT) or give it high throttle, the car will build boost up to around 10psi, bog for a few seconds (stutter), build to full boost (17psi) and power normally. If I go WOT from a stop, this doesn't happen. It really only...

Okay, installed a new set of spark plugs (the recommended NGK BPR6ES's) and the car runs perfectly now!! The set I pulled out where the BK's from NGK, and appeared to be quite fouled. I had no idea that spark plugs could make such a big difference!! Why is it that they could cause the car to...

Okay, so if I go for a solid speed run, I noticed that as soon as I hit max. boost (set to 16lbs in my car) and the wastegate opens up, my rpms no longer want to increase. Typically, this happens at around 4500rpms. Is this normal??What kinds of things can I do to adjust the boost so that...

For the reference of anyone that is searching for a fix to symptoms similar to what I had, here is the turbo-mani gasket that I pulled out of my car. The leak I felt was coming directly out of the area that has clearly burnt away. Easy enough to replace, now no leak! Thank you all for your help.

High temp copper spray?? Sounds good, is this something that I want to use prior to installing the new gaskets and studs/bolts, or something that I should use in conjunction?? From what I've read, the copper spray is to be used as a first step / method in sealing up leaks...and an RTV high temp...

Any recommendations as far as things you found really tricky?? I'll be giving it a shot in a week or so when the parts come in!

With the leaking exhaust, and the lower IC pipe that kept blowing off back in December (i've since had that fixed), my A/C fan has melted into wonderful looking globules of fun. In turn, I have unplugged it and removed the shroud from the backside of the radiator. I am wondering what will...

I love the insanely quick responses on this forum, it's unbelievable.Where can I can PB Blaster from?? I've read quite a bit about it throughout my searches on this topic, can't believe I forgot about it...does NAPA stock that stuff?? I'll pick some up and being spraying it a couple times a...

Okay, so I torqued all of the turbo-manifold bolts/studs and it really helped a lot. The turbo now spools up fine, but the car doesn't feel like it's getting turbo-pull/power until I hit about 10lbs of boost. Anyways, there is still an exhaust leak, but not from the area circled in the above...

Alright, i'll go ahead an pick up on of the 7cm turbine housing gaskets, and a new stainless steel stud set from ssstuds.com. If I use a stud extractor to undo the four bolts that hold the exhaust manifold to the turbine housing, will I be able to access / swap out the gasket, or will I need to...

Okay, checked out ssstuds.com and will probably grab the stainless set with the copper bolts. I am assuming here that the copper is going to be advantageous in some way or other (more maliable? better ability to flex-unflex under heat?)...I have no desire to make my underhood area "pretty", so...

Searched through the forums, read a bit about the variety of different turbo-exhaust manifold gaskets. I've taken a good look at stock ones, the stainless steel slowboyracing, RRE 7cm turbine housing gasket. and copper ones. I'm currently leaning the most towards the RRE gasket, read the most...

Hi there, i've got a leak in my exhaust manifold as indicated in the pictures below. I've tightened the turbo-exhaust manifold bolts (in particular the ones circled) to the high end of spec (47 ft-lbs). This helped a great deal, but there is still a mild amount of air leaking out. Wondering...

Sounds great, gonna give it all a shot. I tightened up the turbo-exhaust manifold bolts and it actually helped immensely! I actually believe that car is now running a lot like it was prior to my noticing any problems. However, now that I know that leak is there, I can still detect a small...

Okay, so I popped off the exhaust manifold cover, and felt around for the leak...it is basically as indicated in the pictures below. I wanted to start a new thread in "Bolt-on Tech" but won't quite yet because you guys have really helped alot with your last few replies. I've printed off the...

Here's what i'm using for my 3 inch intercooler lead tester...just gotta get a different set of band clamps, forgot to account for the thickness of the hose!

Okay, so the guy at subaru had me start off just by popping the hood (car not on hoist) and firing up the engine. With the car at idle, and stethoscope in ears (the bottom disc piece that usually goes on your chest removed so it was just a hose) he commented right off the bat that it sounds...

Yes, i'm very curious to see how this guy goes about testing for a boost leak up on a hoist. My car is a 5-speed, so a brake stand is out of the question either way. Can you even get a car into gear without the tires being on the ground?? If so, i'd only need to get it up to around 2400rpm...

Okay, so i've been thinking a lot about this whole thing. I think i've located a place that will carry the right sized hose and end cap, so i'll grab that as well as a 2.5 diameter set-up too (i'm positive that this is the size of my upper intercooler piping).T'row afternoon, i'll be...

Home depot also disappointed me...the biggest hose coupling they had was in 1.5 inch diameter, and the biggest end cap they have is 2 inches...Yes, the hose that is currently hooked up goes off of the back (pointed towards the passenger seat) of the intake. I'll see if I can switch it for...

The dejon intake came with only one nipple...would it be a smarter decision to run the loose one into the intake instead of the one running to the charcoal canister?? I'm not worried about emissions, Edmonton/Alberta could care less.Got a new problem...went to Napa, Partsource, 2 plumbing...

I took a look at that hose that runs off of the middle left edge of the valve cover...the one that should be hooked up to the intake. Is that the "engine vent hose" that you guys are talking about?? I can't figure out where it is supposed to connect to the intake though. Should I take some...