You need stiffer molds with tighter clearances most likely. I would try doing steel reinforcement around the outer flange section, sort of like a very large washer. The top looked decent in that second picture so that might get you a better flange as well.
I had a CAS start to fail, it did what you described and eventually wouldn't start at all on hot starts (60-90 minute waits until one day it fully packed it in).
COP does have another use, and that's the ability to do true sequential ignition. You need an aftermarket ECU to do this, of course, but with the AEM series 2 for example, sequential ignition allows you to do knock per cylinder. This is something that won't apply to the majority of people of course.
Sorry I can't definitively answer either of your questions, however I've been running the v2 EMS for the last couple years and have found it fairly lacking compared to other comparably priced units. Map resolution is low (21x18 off the top of my head) compared to the 32x32 which seems to be the...
I'm in the process of building a splitter/undertray that extends to the back of the engine bay. Once I've finished it I will be making measurements publicly available.
The build quality on the Cipher seats is fine, I have no concerns with them. I'd be interested to see the frame of the Corbeau but the cipher is quite solid.
I have a pair of Cipher seats and quite like them. Corbeau has actually knocked off a couple of their seats (or is buying from the same distributor). I have the Cipher CPA2002 which Corbeau offers as their RRX for $300 more.
I have a 24 tooth cam wheel on an AEM v2 and went through a few issues getting it fired up.Are you getting Stat Sync'd?
Have you checked voltage at the sensor?
Have you checked cam and crank counts while cranking to make sure they increment correctly?If you want I'd be happy to take a look...
The only reason to go COP is if you can go full sequential. That's what I've done with an AEM Series 2 EMS and it allows me to do per-cylinder knock control.
Nothing on rock auto unfortunately, I'll check in with JNZ though. Local Mitsubishi dealer said it's a discontinued item and anything left out there is just old stock.
Got my car running again for the first time in a year and took it for a drive yesterday. About 15 minutes in I started to get a clunking noise that changed in frequency with road speed, and was much more noticeable under low load and coasting. I've sheared ring gear teeth before and had the same...
Not quite finished yet but getting there. Harness still needs I/O verification then sleeving/heatshrink and the brake and clutch reservoirs badly need new or repainted caps.
Not an S90, but my wilson 75mm leaked like a sieve when I first got it. I ended up getting some brass bushings machined with a groove for an o-ring to replace the standard skateboard style bearings they used. Between that and sealing up the ford tps it uses I got rid of my leaks. Seems to be a...
You'll want baffles, especially if they'll cover the breather outlets. I have two outlets on the front of my valve cover which unfortunately aren't covered by the baffles and I lose a lot of oil to the catch can. It's to the point where I'm going to pull off the valve cover and have some small...
I'll try and get some soon once I've given it a good clean! Just got it insured again the other day.Not sure, I'm thinking maybe it wasn't taken down as far as it could be.I'll try and get some soon, in the middle of final exams and a move right now.I think I'm going to have to...
This update has been a long time coming! After a bunch of setbacks over the last few months, the Talon finally lives! Ended up replacing the blackbox ecu with an AEM EMS V2. Right now it's running a very conservative break in tune: 5800rpm rev limit, 18psi boost limit (w/g spring pressure) and...
Yes it did, I was getting down to around 1000rpm's in second so I put it into neutral while I was rolling and maybe 2 seconds later it locked up.Motor starts and runs fine.
Picked up my car after some work and a dyno tune yesterday and it was running flawlessly. Did a few pulls and as I was slowing down approaching a red light, it felt like someone had locked on the brakes as the car stalled out while coming to a stop. Got out and tried to push it and I couldn't...
I bought a Magnus V3 and Wilson 75mm TB to go with it when they first came out, and now that I'm finally ready to start breaking in my car I've found that the shaft leaks boost pretty bad on both sides. I've searched everywhere but can't seem to find any info as to whether or not there's...
Newly coated parts look even better in an engine bay! Finally getting close to driving this thing. I've got it at a local performance shop getting a few last things done (fuel system, misc AN and vacuum lines, turbo lines) and should be getting it back in a week or so. Then all that's left is...
Baffles installed! Realized after the fact that where my fab guy put the bungs is below the baffles so they're kind of moot, but at least it let me get all the crap out from behind the factory baffles. If I have issues with too much oil getting into the catch can I'll put some small baffles in...
ExtremePSI currently has a few different sets for between $190-$210. Those are good prices for good cam gears, and it's not something you want to cheap out on.
Some low-quality go pro pictures, but pictures nonetheless! Talon is done at the fab shop, just needs some small final assembly (fuel lines, turbo lines, misc wiring) then it'll be time for it's first fire up in almost 4 years!
I can't speak as to whether or not it's the best option, but I have a Prosport Evo wideband and it has narrowband and wideband outputs in addition to the gauge output. I have the narrowband output wired up as my front O2 sensor and I'll be wiring the wideband output into my rear O2 sensor so...
Thanks! For now I've got a 98 flashable ecu that I'll be running CeddyMods bigmaps with speed density on. Depending on if I run into any issues with it, I might upgrade to a full standalone like AEM EMS next year.Thanks! I'm running an upgraded radiator for a MK3 VW Golf and it fits inside...
I assumed that he'd be doing the full 4g63 swap at the same time, I know there's no wiring needed for the AWD system. From what I've been reading, if you start with an NA spyder you have to modify the harness slightly (knock sensor addition, possibly some pin swapping on the ecu plugs?) or swap...
You need to find a 2g car. The 1g uses a different transmission, driveshaft, fuel tank, subframe, diff, axles, and suspension setup (possibly other little things too but those are the major ones) from a 2g.Also I noticed you have a GS spyder. I'm fairly certain that to swap that to AWD you'll...
Thanks! Just a few more pictures of it during mockup, I haven't had a chance to take any finished pictures yet but if you're interested check out my build thread.
I'll be another one to chime in saying you should just go custom if you want dual tip as I've never personally seen a dual tip turbo-back or cat-back exhaust. That said, dual tip is the way to go. Here's what I had fabbed up for mine:
Get some wax and grease remover from an autobody supply store or similar, and clean the hood off with it, then wetsand and polish again. If you don't use the wax and grease remover you're just going to keep forcing the wax into the scratches as you sand and you'll never get rid of those marks.
I had one minor wrinkle, about 1/3 of the way up on the left side in that picture you can kinda see it. Same thing happened on my other door panel as well. There was definitely some flex in the stuff I used, and my foam was 1/4" thick underneath. Thanks!