If your willing to pay that much for one why not have one shipped to you from out of state there's a blur gsx that was just posted I think in Virginia if I had 5-10k I'd make the trip or pay to ship for that one
I personally know the guy that sold the engine to sakura racing to be the first 7sec 4cylinder small world best friends with his son lol can't wait to show him
I never had an issue with a Megan downpipe on my 1g I ran a stock o2 housing with a 3" Megan downpipe, 3" Megan test pipe, and a 3" thermal r&d catback it sounded lovely
If you got the time and money to put into but it sounds like a headache just because he's giving you all the parts to go with he said daily driver? I wouldn't daily drive something making noise how long has it been it might have gotten worse but if your willing to put in the time 3500 is a bit much
Can't see the video nothing there if your cat was the problem it would be sluggish how's it run power wise check your maf sensor make sure its connected check your vacuum lines
Thanks for the feed back guys it ended up being the timing the camshaft sensor was off and the timing belt was loose but will still perform a tune up, boost leak test and double check the vacuum lines anyway to be on the safe side that way I don't run into any other issues
No manual boost controller, have a hks ss on there but I don't think it is being recalculated and don't really have time to do all the fun stuff I've checked the timing that's about it work nights 10+ hr shifts takes up all my time
It does build some boost but not enough to feel a significant pull there is no setting going off stock gauges car came with aftermarket gauges and at idle it read -10 vacuum but those gauges are no longer on the car. If I floor it the rpm gauge steadily climbs tho, If the clutch was going...
So I got my car running after a few things and now it runs rough shifts hard and builds boost but you can feel it you can see it on a gauge but no getting sucked into your seat any ideas?
Yesterday to be honest plugs looked on the rich side also changed wires both NGK 8mm sites and forgot what number plug but o2 sensor you say could you explain why please ?
Yea get the fwd trans less work same amount of money unless the guy has everything lying around and will do the work for cheap other than that it'll be less of a head ache
Just to be sure make sure your intake has no leaks and you intercooler pipes as I remember had a 90 ### myself and had a lose volt on ny j pipe and that made it do what your describing hopefully its something small
Isn't the slave on the tranny or am I confusing that with something else? If your leak is inside work your way back till you fix it seems like an odd leak and would like to know how it turns out keep posting updates please
I always keep a spare ecu do you know someone you can that can let you plug it in and see if that stops your problem other than that you said its your daily driver so all the timing should be go right? I had the same issue but it was my timing turned over and over but never started
The clutch master cylinder would be the best place to start not to expensive maybe your resivoir has a crack make sure to get one with the reservoir attach
I started taking the exhaust manifold off but before I was having trouble going up small hills it proggresively got worse and everything everyone is saying about higher rpm makes since cause I was staring to think my clutch was slipping I guess ill change all the turbo gaskets and get back to...
So I started searching for some awnserers and didn't seem to find anything helpful I was wondering if a exhaust leak right under the exhaust manifold can cause me to lose massive boost and last I checked I vacuum was at -10 help please
Might sound dumb but had the same problem and it ended up being my timing. After a while it stop starting but if you heard the ecu clicking and saw it burnt out hope replacing it solves your problem I was told to keep a spare
I know the feeling willing to go but the bank says no my engine was in and running on mine but now I'm dealing with a sluggish pedal and a boost leak. Money pit indeed don't get discouraged it'll be worth it when you get it going.
Hey guys kind of new been using this site for its classifieds and threads for a while fell off and now back with a 1g awd that isn't perfect. I've almost forgotten everything I learned but willing to listen and get my hands dirty and go in hard
I had the exact opposite as the problem radio worked but the cd player didn't changed the fuse and worked like New I don't know why that would help but no complaints here
Yea I think you should stick to factory red for that price and red has always been the easiest color to clean always looks good with minimal effort why don't you powder coat your wheels gun metal
You said from a slow roll or dead stop are you turning or going straight at the time you here this sound? Have you checked your p/s fluid, I'd start with the simple stuff first
Yes hopefully its not a cut spring but besides squeaking hiss the ride if it bumpy the springs might be cut but ad PieEyedPiper said never seen someone drop a dsm 3 inches
How did the car die did it die slowly or all of a sudden if it slowly turned off its the alt. and I think its a good idea to have all your gauges working that oil pressure switch isn't that expensive and could save you from ruining your engine in the long run
Are you stopping fairly hard I thought the abs only kicked in when having to stop hard but If there's no abs light on the dash I'd rule out sensors and go with warped rotors or low pads definitely