that sucks. why in hell would they send a bigger one than stock?

so are we saying the NEW ACT TOB (NSK) plastic sleeved part is still inferior to the OEM TOB? What's this about the sizes being different?

True.. but what about a sprung 6-puck w/ 2100pp?ooh.. springy goodness:D

Thanks for the update Eric.1. So you're saying you use a completely stock pressure plate - stock clamping force correct?2. Is the clutch fully feramic on both sides, or is it a combo i.e. sintered iron on the pressure plate side / organic material on the flywheel side?Please bear...

Yeah that's probably what it is... I only emailed him because someone on this forum or the other one posted his email address and said "go ahead, its ok to ask him questions directly" and he probably got a flood of mail. Its just sad that having horrible customer service is becoming the rule...

nah.. Gabor is the creator of the clutch .. AMS just resells the clutches. he just didn't feel like answering questions

yeah, nobody has answered me yet.. i guess stampy didn't check this thread...so i emailed AMS directly with request for info.. no response :thumb:then i emailed Gabor directly and he told me to buy an ACT clutch - awesome :rolleyes:so now i'm looking at this:New ClutchMasters DSM...

Yes Eric, can you please post all available information, specs about this clutch? I just went to take a look at it and it looks interesting.info about the disc itself, using a stock or modified pressure plate, how is it modded, flywheel issues, pedal pressure, how much power will it hold...

Was your pucked disc sprung or unsprung? I have heard about SPRUNG 6 puck discs being manufactured, and its supposed to be easier on the driveline. What do you all think of sprung 6 puck discs for the street?**EDIT** i just re-read the thread and noticed DSMTurbos had a sprung 6 and he had...

1. Synthetic is GOOD for our trannies2. GL-5 is BAD for our synchros

what did you all have to do to get a red top to fit and use all the factory tie downs, covers etcalso, i think the red top is about 200CCA more than stock, will there be any issues with this for a stock ignition system?basically red top owners please reply and share your experience...

BG II is synthetic... Original BG is conventional. They are different part numbers and also a thinner oil than factory, probably why your shifting is easier in cold weather.

from all info gathered thus far, it seems GM / Pennzoil / Quaker State etc etc etc are NOT GL rated.. they are simply GLS (Gear Lube - Special) to conform to GM/Chrysler specs. Moreover, this Synchromesh works fine with some trannies outside the GM family, maybe not as well with others. The...

From somewhere on a 3/S page: Synchromesh has been said to be "Yellow Metal Friendly" -- should be safe to use with our brass synchrosFrom Redline:information overload!

Well that makes sense seeing as how isn't that way too thick for our trannies? And GL-6?? How does that play with our brass synchros?Also, Defiant, you seem to know a ton about Synchromesh products. What is the weight of this product? I seem to recall there being manufacturer comments...

Rock. thanks dude :thumb:offhand does anyone know if the stock mitsu stuff u get at the dealer is synth or convetional?

thank you so much for answering my ACTUAL question.

my question basically boils down to...a tranny that has seen synth most of its life, would there be any issues switching to a non-synth (which i suspect the five dollar synchromesh is) or even going back to the stock factory fluid (which i have no clue if its synth or not)thanks for...

damn.. now i'm really confused, just found a post somewhere else by a 3/S guy that says Pennzoil Synchromesh is NOT synthetic! That would make more sense since the GM p/n 12345349 stuff is not synthetic and the Pennziol stuff is supposedly the exact same part number? :confused: :cry:

currently running BGII -- fully synthetic -- in my trans. The Pennzoil (GM) Synchromesh is readily available at auto parts store (and cheaper!) ... would there be any issues switching from the synth BGII to the non-synth synchromesh?

having a hard time locating a place to order new GReddy gaskets for a Type-S BOV... linkage would be much appreciated...

I have syncroshift now.. gave me tranny whine (thinner oil than stock?) but shifted nice. Time to replace and I'm looking at NEO RHD for use in my tranny. Anyone run this stuff and is it recommended over syncroshift? it sure is WAY more expensive. Dre with the crazy ass gsx runs it in his...

Total newb to wheels and tires... i hit so many potholes that its time to change wheels and i'm not having luck finding stock 2G GSX wheels around my way... i did find someone selling:17x7 - 38mm offset .. i plan to use my stock tireshere are stock specsTire: 215/50-17 Wheel: 17x6.5...

how much does the "OEM is best" statement apply to fuel filters? I would like to go OEM but my dealer doesn't have the freakin crush washers (separate part number, that's just ludicrous). Could I go purolator, it comes with washers and is more expensive than OEM actually by a few dollars lol...

lol so they both require splicing is what you're saying :D

wow a big28 on a 1g.. if that isn't bassackwards... =]

so the supra requires splicing whereas the walbros do not?

I have an AGP GT25/28 from the group buy sitting in a box right now, just waiting on me to order the rest of my fuel components. I was looking at getting a supra fuel pump, rewiring it, with denso 720cc injectors, dsmlink (have it already), and an aeromotive AFPR. I know this sounds like a...

thanks for all the responses guys... i was going to just stick with OEM but by the time i got out of work the parts counter was closed at the dealer. in a pinch i picked up the 90-92 sized pureone oil filter #PL10193 from the store, it really is short and fat! way fatter than the OEM one i was...

also should i always replace the oil pan drain gasket... i usually do out of paranoia but i have recently heard the following : 'wtf do you do that for?' lol

i have always used the OEM filters, whatever was on my car when i first bought it, and i have been using the same model number since.. i forget what it is offhand but it is pretty long and very close to the downpipe, assuming a standard 2G OEM filter.i recently found out about the popularity...

i have 46k on it now.. but its been acting up for a while.. maybe since like 30k.. i just recently took it to the track and the pedal lightened up.. but before then i've tried adjusting it to engage higher, because the shfiting always felt notchy like the pedal wasn't engaging the clutch to...

mine squeals too... i keep hearing its normal.. it sounds like a computerized beep.. at partial / low throttle. my friend had his head out the window cuz i busted ass in the car and i was going slow and he was like HOLY CRAP what's that beep. yeah.. the BOV is embarrasing. :-P

ok i have a 99 GSX -- lately my clutch pedal seems stiffer than it used to be when i bought it last year. anyways i was at the track and really stomping the pedal to shift as fast as i could.. at the end of the run, the pedal was light as a feather. felt really good actually.... a few days...

Slow BOy Racing has a ball bearing turbo called the GT12 -- does anyone have any info on that?

for what its worth, i have both a mechanical gauge and the DTT DCthey have identical readings. i find myself looking at the DTT more for boost readings cuz i don't have to decipher the lines on the mechanical gauge :)one downside (for most) is that they are both in BAR.

so you guys are just tightening the piss out of your belts.. isn't there some sort of tension gauge and specs from the manual to follow? i don't have it with me, i'll have to check at home but i was wondering if anyone knew offhand...

yeah as much as i loathe 3gs, there are some nice turbo and supercharger kits out / coming out for them. should be interesting.. there are some for the 4cyl platforms.i'd suggest http://www.neweclipse.org

no the bump is on the hood.. it usually means we're happy to see you ;)

heya.. if you're looking for a JDM motor imported from japan, try this:http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g63motorsearch.htmif you are looking to spend less for just a simple US 4G63, check http://www.dsmtrader.com sometimes there are motors there for sale.

ok i've never measured mine but i was always under the impression that those bulges are RESONATORS -- that its not piping that necks down, rather the piping looks like it gets bigger.. the 'small looking' portions between the resonator bulges are the ~3" piping. it should be fairly close to 3"...

yeah nobody really knows too many specs on the Big28, save for the fact that they have run hgh 11's on it, on a built car. I'm hoping for high 12's on pump gas from the AGP GT25/28, 12.99999 pleeez on my GSX :) -- sounds like a pretty nice street turbo overall for the price. However don't...

OOPS double post sorry

This group buy sounds great. I inquired about porting before I found out about the GB and AGP said its $75 extra, FYI.

wow this is an old post.. hehe. i just read that thread, but the guy writing it has a 1G. don't the 14b's pull all the way to redline? the T-too small in 2Gs, as we all know, loses boost after roughly 5500rpm. So, with this differing factor, do we 2G guys still want to run 2nd and 3rd to...

lol really? not in my areai'm looking for a 1G auto beater.. to keep stock and drive daily. everyone has 5sp around this mug. :) i HATE 5sp in bumper to bumper.

ok. ATR is loud as hell.. its the straightest piping available for AWD. my friend has an ATR turboback. if its loud you want, i'd suggest looking into that. bring your earplugs... :)

http://www.myzero.com/gauges/egt.html says b/w 4 and 8