i had the same prob two of them were way to small for the oem mounts, so i just machined some inserts and tig welded them in. worked really good

Alright well i tore it apart found nothing out of the ordinary. i had a spare set of noids laying around which i know are in working condtion, and i am still stuck in 3rd. I am still getting code 83 aswell, could my tcu be bad maybe? tomarow iam going to try to hook up switches the the noids and...

the one tool i would definelty get is the tool to adjust the kickdown servo that was a real pain with out the tool. Yes the kit does include the end clutches.

x2 on the double flex I blew one apart then ran two and havent had a problem since. 2 plates ftw!

I have about 1000 miles on it so far everythings fine except for i think i have a bad shift noid. I didnt really use any special tools even though it says you need them i just made it work. I pretty much just pulled all the clutches i didnt change the bearings in the diff and transfer shafts...

take it to any tire shop and tell them that you have a rim leak. All thats causing it is corrision or somthing stuck in the bead.

Well my car went into limp mode yesturday and I pulled the codes and got 83 which is open or short circted shift solnoid A. I checked the continuity cheked out fine and I am getting a ohm reading of 21.6 ohm's. Is it possible that the valve is stuck open or closed to throw this code? Also what...

Ive just rebulit mine it isnt hard at all just pay attetion and have a very clean work area. And also a pan of trans fuild to lube stuff up with.

It is a manual right? beacuause if it is an auto then its the kick down servo switch wire.

check to see if you maybe switched the wires around ford coils burn if you do that.

some new tires for the gsx (nitto nt555rs) craftsmen drill impact driver combo gf got me some custom oakely gascan s sunglasses led worklight metric and standard ratchet wrenches bunch of gift cards and cash oh ya and the slowboy tee shirt (its not turbo lag its four play) no fear and...

Is it leaking at the npt threads or the AN flare part? if its just leaking at the threads then just put some thread sealer on them. If its the AN flare it may have a burr or somthing.

Yes that mod does work, it basically makes the trans shift at full line pressure. and you don't just ground the wire, you have to put a resistor inline. Although i am not sure of what resistor, just do a search for it.

Hey no problem happy to help

Well now you should replace the tensioner and all the pulleys and do the bs removal. it seems like the noise could be from your bs or pulleys.

Look in your manual i kno atleast in my 1g there is a fuse called 4a/t, and if that blows it turns the tcu off hence limp mode. This happend to me put the new fuse in good as new. oh yea try pulling your tcu codes, theres a writeup in the auto trans section on how to do it, that will tell you alot.

The buschur racing turbo back, its very badass and sounds awsome. my buddy has it on his car and its wicked good

Just keep them washed and also use some good paste wax on them it will help protect the wheels. Ive done that for years on my truck and the wheels look good as new.

I had the same problem with my car and it turned out to be the fiav, which i just blocked off and it idled perfect. basically when the motor is cool it lets more air by but then coolant warms it up and closes the valve. When it fails it stays open when the motor is warm and it idles high.

Pretty much any vendor on here should have then, i ordered mine from slowboy i believe.

Its really a little bit quieter then just a straight dump tube, sounds about the same.Oh and you would never want to just dump it in the engine bay, well unless you like melting things. But i do like having it dump out the bumper it scares the shit out of people when it opens and there windows...

Theres a fuse called "4a/t" check that, and check all connectors on the trans. If that doesn't work then theres something wrong. it could also be your gear position sensor,(the thing under the shift lever) that almost seems like it could be the problem since it wont start in park.

steel wool and oven cleaner works great, well atleast on my dads harley pipes. then go over it with scotch brite pad.

On my gsx i have it dumped out the bumper and well its very loud with your window down and your next to a car or wall. really easy to do just it does turn the bumper black lol.

yea at 80 a case thats the only downside, but its nice not having people ask me what is wrong with my engine lol.

Well I finally got my car back up and running after a tranny rebulid and bunch of other crap. I ended up putting royal purple 5w-30 in it and guess what i have no more lifter tick, my car had it pretty bad before. i was using mobil 1 with synthetic lucas but still had tick. i my book i think the...

haha he needs to talk about his 7bolt crankwalking

What is exactly involved in making the car shift like a manual valve body? because i have a b&m megashifter laying around that i could use for a shifter.

oh well in that case its 1/8 npt pipe thread. home depot racing will have it or any good hardware store. ofcoarse make sure you use thread sealent on it or red locktite.

just go buy the new sensor its like 10 bucks at murrays or autozone. if you replace it the light will stay on.

yea i have 245/40r17 nittos on my car and they clear with 1.5 drop

you could always just bolt the drivers mount back up while your doin the bs removal, then just use the oil pan when you do the tbelt

It shouldnt cause a problem since its not leaking air to atmosphere, since its goin back into the intake. i may be wrong though

haha i keep one in the back just incase, hey its a dsm rightROFL

hey andy jegs has one made by perma cool its pretty much a universal kit. i may put one on my car to filter is a lil close to the 3" dp

yea it would be nice for us auto guys that dont like broken factory mounts if they came out with somthing. thanks for the link i tryed searching but didnt find that thread for some reason. haha that is my thread for the bushing not fitting in the mounts. i fixed that by machinging a sleeve that...

alright well iam having a bit of a problem. i put prothane mounts in my 1g auto, i made sleeves to make the front a rear mounts work right. but now my problem is i can get both side mounts and the rear to line up, but the front mount is way off. any auto guys wanna help me out here. is there a...

are you planing on buliding the car up, or just stayin pretty mild bulid? if you do plan on bulding it you might aswell get some good parts, tho topline is good but as metioned above not for a high hp motor. you could always go with clevite bearings and arp hardware depending on how much you do...

the hancook winter pike is a knarly snow tire. if you want traction its a great tire, they also wear pretty good for winter tires. iam thinking about get a set for my gsx for the crazy mich winters haha.

i would say its probaly your plugs, i ran bosch plugs for a day as soon as i hit like 14 psi stuttering backfiring all sorts of stuff. replaced with good old trusty ngk plugs and no more problems

yea when i ordered them they didnt say anything about not fitting the auto dsm so i figured that the mounts would be atleast the same size. i may just shrink down the rings and make them work. if i go that way ill do a write up on it so it will be a known fact and how to get around it.

anyone have any ideas?

iam pretty sure there is a write up in the tech section about that gauge.

yes i would say if your gonna change one belt you mite as well get all the accesory belts, and the t belt depeneding on when it was done last. i agree preventive maintenace is critcal on our dsm's.

ok well i bought the prothane mounts for my 91 gsx, which is an automatic. well the cam and trans mounts fit fine but the front and rear mounts are way to small to fit in the mounts. has anyone had this problem? and yes i searched with no luck. do i have to get front and rears from a manual?

well the auto will be faster if bulit properly. i am in the process of that rite now, full ipt rebulid kit, kiggly front clutch drum, ipt valve body, billet tq. it will rip a five speed apart but belive me its quite pricey lol. i agree five speeds are way more fun to drive but doin the swap is...

wow thats pretty cheap but.. still would -8 work beacuse i am cheap and i dont really have any use for the an fittings and line.

would -8 line be big enough for the oil drain on a evo 16g? my stock drain is trashed and i have a bunch of fittings and line laying around and making the flanges would be nothin. thanks for any help

i jsut pulled mine today comes out the top real easy just make sure you have everything disconted.

the nitto nt555r is a pretty good tire they hook like crazy and dont really need perfect heating conditons like bfg's. the nt101 are good to but they wear out way to fast.