Why not invest in a rebuild kit and rebuild it yourself. Turbos have very little moving parts. You will have to scribe housings for alignment and take your time. With the digital age taking pictures is easy and fast. I've rebuilt them before and found them to be extremely simple, the clean up...
If you still had your catalytic converters you would have less/no hydrocarbons. They smell bad and can cause headaches due to the chemicals involved. Since you aren't running at the ideal 14.7:1 fuel ratio this would make your catalytic converters less efficient. Well in a way it does. You see...
I have read in a book that you should be able to give the crankshaft a good spin and it should rotate twice on it's own. This of course is all going to depend on the temperature of the engine and the lubricant. It will also depend on what type of lubricant you used. I used a heavy assembly lube...
I hope that you're not a real engineer. A larger crankshaft outer diameter will require a larger bearing inner diameter to maintain proper clearances. Therefore the opposite is also true that a smaller crankshaft outer diameter will require a smaller bearing inner diameter to maintain proper...
Mine used to pop out. I would just cruise to work and pop the hood and everytime the dipstick would be out of the tube. It botherd me knowing debris could be gettin into the oil. I figured it was the age of the rubber and that I would be needing a new dipstick. I eventually changed the timing...
It's possible that for whatever reason your intake valves aren't opening. But personally I'd look into the fuel injector. Is it possible that you damaged it during the swap? Does it have a good, corrosion free connection?
What can you put them in by hand? The pistons or the rods? If you can in the rods and pistons then you have a floating wristpin setup, or the wrong wristpins. If you can in the piston but not in the rod then you have press fit wristpins. Clear as mud?
What he's saying is you want to make sure the gas pulses reach the turbo at different times. There isn't much of a scavaging effect to the turbo but you can benefit from a good header design. It could help spool time and underhood temps in theory. Scaveging is more noticeable in N/A engines. It...
This isn't recommended anywhere. Adding more oil than what is specified by the manufacturer can cause strange things to happen. It can aireate the oil if the crankshaft balance weights are spinning in the oil. Aireated oil can cause bearing damage due to a lack of hydraulic pressure in the oil...
I bought my 91 laser and did an initial inspection of the car. According to the seller the timing belt had been replaced recently. I noticed after removing the inspection cover that the belt didn't cover the entire width of the cam sprockets. After removal of the timing belt, I discovered that...
Personally I'd make the change in the transfercase. It would take some machining and tooling, but could be done. Then you'd only need a simple cable to switch between 2wd or 4wd. You'd have to be parked to make the switch from 2wd to 4wd though.
Personal experience only here. Think about how many miles you have on your car and the current ISC. Think of how many years that it has served loyally to your engine. If you could hold the two parts in your hand and compare them, I'd bet you'd take that aftermarket part and chuck it in the...
Sounds like it could be a bad system power or bad system ground. Check your battery cables and ensure they are tight. Also inspect them for corrosion and clean them if you find any corrosion. Trace your grounds from the battery to where they are bolted down. Make sure they are tight as well. As...
You say the serial port has a USB adapeter at the other end? I know I've had problems in the past trying to communicate serial to usb. We got an adapter and a program from radio shack that fixed our problem. May be something to look into. Since you have the cable, you may only need the...
I have a 91 n/t laser. It spit and sputtered on me the other day going to work. It's been acting up lately. The idle revs between 1200-1600 and is really annoying. I had it adjusted right at one time. I smelled hot electrical and knew instantly that my caps were bad. I took the ecu out and...
Be very specific when you ask them to balance your tires. Ask them if they have the proper equipment so they don't scratch your rims. Also make sure they have a balancer that allows them to put the weights on the inside of your rim. Good luck!
Actually brass plugs are better to use if you plan on reusing the bung someday. Brass is self lubricating and won't sieze up in the hole as easily. You might have 1/8 pipe or 1/4 pipe, it just depends. Take your EGT probe to a autoparts store and they can hook you up.
If your oil filter did blow off due to a manufacture's defect, save it. They owe you an engine :P If in fact you did shut the engine down immediately, you shouldn't have any knocking issues. The only thing i can think is that after running out of oil, the pump lost its prime. This could cause...
If you've had your tranny out and it's still out, there's a good chance there is no pressure in the fuel system. It will bleed down over time. If you are concerned then do as you stated and put a rag over the bolt while loosing it. If it were me i'd just loosen it and not really worry about it...
You could weld it. Make sure that the person welding it is very experienced and has a tig welder. Arc welding and mig welding have a tendancy to get objects very hot very fast and can cause them to warp, in effect causing you headaches trying to make it seal again.
Then again it may be easier...
Well you will come to a point where you fight compression pressures in the cylinder, which is a good thing. There is a notch on the crank pully, it's pretty small so keep your eye peeld. If you can, mark it with a paint pen so you can locate it easier next time.
Is your pvc still hooked up? It sounds like there is oil puddling up. It could be turbo seals, valve stem seals, or just your pvc. Valve seals have the tendancy to show when you let it set for awhile and start the car and blue smoke comes out.
It's very early 90-98 that has the mechanical injection pump. 98.5-02 has the vp44 injection system and 03 and up has the common rail injection.
I'm not exactly sure how much room there is on a 30' cruiser for and engine. If there is enough, I would say go for it. Personally I like the vp44...
Other favorite leaks from the top would include: Oil fill cap, Camshaft seals, CAS seal. Some have also reported blowby from the dipstick tube leaving oil on the valve cover. It is also possible that the shop overtorqued the fastners and stripped the threads. If so it would comprimise the valve...
You could have been experiencing preignition due to high cylinder head temps. I would remove the plugs and inspect for missing pieces that have melted due to the high temperatures. As far as permanant damage goes, have your mechanic perform a compression and leak down check. Doing so will let...
Don't forget when going back together with the head to be generous with the lube on the camshaft journals and lobes. Steel and aluminum don't get along without lube for very long and will displace aluminum in the cap.
are you using synthetic oil? If you are and your turbo seal is going bad, the smoke produced could be white in color. There are many other indications. Remember antifreeze smells sweet even after it's past the engine. So sniffing around the fumes may lead you to the answer. Obvioulsy don't stick...
go wth the original part number. you may be able to have someone with caps tell you if there are any supersessions and such. I've read that a 1.8l tcu will work, but i cannot confirm that.
As stated by a vendor of this site. Cryo treating dosen't make it stronger, it causes it to wear better because it helps smooth out the surface bringing more atoms to the surface. Basically cryo treating gives you more surface area, it will not make the part stronger because it dosen't affect...
Remove the TCU and inspect the caps. Or if you have acess to an analog Dvom you can take a reading at the data link connector. If the reading is a constant voltage, including 0 volts, your tcu is dead. I had a dead tcu. I diagnosed it by checking the data link connector. When I inspected the...
Twin turbo setups are old news. Most of the stuff you guys think is new, is very old in it's ideas. The differences now being newer technologies of old concepts. For example the new Ford powerstroke uses a twin turbo setup. One turbo is a VGT (veriable geometry turbo) the other a "normal" turbo...
You could go eprom. As far as solder suck gun, you can get those on ebay for cheap, or radio shack. You stated you also heard clicking from under the dash, another sign of bad caps. If you have the money go eprom, then fix this one for a backup or sell it.
The TCU's are different for the 1.8, 2.0 n/t and 2.0t. I have read one guy put a 1.8 tcu into a 2.0 car. Supposidly he had no problems. Remove the tcu and inspect the caps. Mine were obviously blown, there was black residue all over the board. I could tell it was the caps because my car was...
It appears repairable. Although My capacitors were all black, so it appears as though it has been repaired once before. You can look on ebay for replacement caps for less than 8 bucks. They aren't bad to replace either, you just need a soldering station and a solder suck gun.
If you're running synthetic oil that could be the cause of your white smoke. For some reason synthetic oil will burn white. I would do a compression check. You could also do a vacuum check. If the vacuum isn't steady, it could indicate ring or piston problems.
If pulling fuses did nothing for amperage draw, you probably have a short. Im not I don't know on 2g's if the alternator is fused or not. You may start there and unhook the positive lead to the alternator and then unhook the regulator. hope this helps
If your copper washers aren't sealing, there's a good chance you scratched the sealing surface. If possible inspect the surface. You may need to remove the turbo to properly debur the surface so the copper will crush. Also one thing i've done is tighten them and loosen them several times to seat...
What color is the smoke, that has yet to be stated. You could be pushing oil out the exhaust side of the turbo only,i've seen it done on turbos before. So you could take your O2 housing off and check there as well.
There are companies that sell such things as battery warmers. And you can buy a magnetic pad that will stick to your oil pand and warm the oil up. This should ensure better starting. Also what weight of oil are you using? If not 5-30 you may want to switch it for easier starting. hope this helps
Looking at my chrysler 91 manual it looks like it varies drastically. I'll try to break it down to the best of my abilities :PAutomatic with No Anti Theft- No starter relay. It has an inhibitor switch located in the shifter.Automatic with Anti Theft- Anti Theft starter relay located...
Because to it than that. Wouldn't you agree that you will go richer when your off the line in WOT than when you hit 5k rpm's. You have to have a richer fuel mix to help turbo spool. yes?
There is no starter relay unless you have the anti theft system. If you have the anti theft system the starter relay is behind the radio with the ecm, or in that general area :thumb: