You'd be shocked at the amount of people that use a gatorade bottle or other makeshift bottle. Either way, its a plastic bottle it isn't going to effect you in any way as long as you have the bottle semi filled when cool. From the sounds of it the first post may be right, they do sound like...

With no tune, you shouldn't be putting all of this together and going around boosting at all, unless you have lots of money to throw around. Do it right, if you're going to build the motor, then do it. When you get it all put together decide your psi of boost on your turbo, motor, and supporting...

The only way that you can reduce your sidewall and to also maintain your similar speedometer and wheel gap will be to upgrade to a 17 inch rim. I run 215/45/17 Falkens on my car and it gives a great look with a decent amount of sidewall.

The kyb gr-2s are not meant to be used with lowering springs. They are meant to be a stock replacement used at stock height. If you want to lower your car look for agxs or something more expensive such as konis.

I'm pretty sure using the throttle body or any of the intake or exhaust system would just restrict flow and cause a power loss. As for the wiring harness why. Waste of time and effort and money when ECMlink can be had for very cheap for everything you get.

I'm not sure what kind of magic car you drive, but on stock DSMs at wot you get about a 9:1. Most people i've heard from run a safe 11.5 usually or lower. I have heard of some people leaning out up to 12.5 but you really have to know what you're doing for that. So yes, your car is definitely...

To put the 1g turbo on (14b assuming hes manual) will require an install kit which can be found at extremepsi.com and other sites. It will have some gains over the stock 2g turbo (t25) but not huge

The common thought is that with a 264/272 combo you should be fine with the stock cam gears. Thats not to say that an adjustable set of cam gears wont help, because being able to degree them in should help a bit, but its not necessary. However, once you get into the land of 280s or 288s and your...

That seems to work pretty good for overheating issues at a stop such as at lights and in stop and go traffic. However for issues while driving this only seems to add to the problem because it restricts air from flowing out.

If you plan on running 25 pounds that still might not be enough. Look into some 660s if you plan on sticking with the safc.

Chances are very good that your stock shocks are going to blow shortly, especially with a 2" drop. If i was you i would have just gotten a set of Eibach Pro springs which tend to be the favourite around here for a quick drop in spring. But i do have to admit that a lower drop does look better...

There's a big difference between respoolability, as you call it, and how fast a turbo spools initially. Whats being discussed here is which turbo will reach X psi at earlier RPMs. All tests i have seen show that the holsets or BWs will achieve earlier spool up.

One thing to make sure you do with this style of injector is to make sure you run the OEM o rings on them instead of running the ones that come on the injectors. the OEM are squared instead of circular so running the circular ones can sometimes cause major air leaks.

This is probably the most common misconception about larger injectors, that they will decrease your fuel millage drastically no matter what. Truth is, its just like dsm-onster said. If you tune for a good fuel ratio and timing, you will achieve the same gas millage no matter the size of...

Well the whole point here is that he's getting the tuning system first and then looking into injectors. I would say to go with 1000s. That way you will never have to buy new injectors again if you upgrade and you're capable of running e85 as well. With Link or anything along those lines you can...

Wow don't do anything this guy just said. If you want the riciest thing you can do that will make your car run bad this is it. Either get a system that will allow you to vent to the atmosphere without problems or turn up the boost. Simple as that.

I looked on vfaq and couldn't find it ? So maybe you should post the paragraph where it says this

Incorrect sir. The compression ratio differs from 1g to 2g so therefore there must be some differences correct?

You guys dont even see cold down there. It hasn't been above zero here for two months probably lol. :sosad:

I'm thinking thats not the problem because it reads fine between 14-18 but goes bad once it gets under fourteen. Just holds there. Ill recheck calibration but i think its pretty good.

Hey guys so i installed my DynoJet wideband a little while ago and ever since install it has given my weird readings. It will read fine on anything from 14-18 at cruise and idle and such but any time it seems it should be reading between 10-14 it will just stop at fourteen. But it seems at times...

You need something called DSM LINK or an AEM EMS. You cant just hook up to the stock ecu and change stuff. You can see whats going on with a logger but thats about it.

Unlesss im mistaken the aerocatch pins are locking are they not? At least my friends set are, so he shouldn't have that problem.

There's a good chance then that the sensor on the bottom of your resevoir is shot or disconnected if it continuously comes back on even with enough coolant in the resevoir. Take a look to see if its disconnected or it may be time for a new sensor.

Ya definitely only get the 3.5 bar if you aren't going over 35 psi. With either one you have the same amount of adjustment cells for fuel tuning. With the 5 bar however you will have a higher range covered by each cell. Ex: 3.5 one cell might be 14-17 psi while on the 5 bar the same cell would...

I can see this thread getting deleted quickly. There is no bench racing on this site.And second of all its a piece of shit 02 civic. Probably the slowest gen of civics ever. If your car runs stock boost and runs well you'll destroy him. Losing to a D16 would make me cry.

Just leave it out. Really quite pointless if its the one im thinking of.

Three inch piping is three inch piping. You'll have the same power out of either one assuming that neither has any very restricting bends. The only differences you'll see will be the sound and perhaps the baller factor of having an HKS exhuast. Do as someone else said and just get the hks...

I just have my 2 step studder box set at 5500 on my AEM. Nets me a cool 8 pounds off the line.

Well i drive a 1g so my memory is somewhat foggy, but i beleive that on your car there should be a fitting on the turbo for that line. And it will be sputtering because that line not being attached is causing a boost leak :)

If there's anyone in your area with a car simliar to yours (turbo, same gen) try running the ecu in their car if they're still running a factory ecu. Should tell you whether or not thats the problem pretty quickly.

ebay 16gs some of them tend to hit boost alot later on depending on the type. Mitsu big 16gs hit full boost at 3000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear. i've seen mine hit full boost by 2800 in 4th

Equal length is the way to go. Meaning each cylinder should have the same length of pipe until the flange. Measure twice cut once ;) lol shouldn't be too bad

Raxles is always a good place. And there's also a how to on this site. Good prices and brand new axles not refurbed ones.

No actually he's not worried about the filter at all if you read it again. I think he has a good idea of where the nozzles would be located. He's just saying that if sucking water up the intake would cause damage how can injecting it not. But the big difference is in volume of water and also...

Well man the problem is just as you stated then, the stock bov. Your turbo is able to run more than that, but once you hit 6psi that bov is going to leak so much air that it will be a MASSIVE boost leak. get that fixed asap that's gotta be hurting you alot.

First of all, paying 4800 for a tranny is completely ridiculous unless your buying a shep stage 4 and i dont think even those are that much. you got screwed. and its up to you if you'd like to take it to a shop or drop it yourself it really isnt that hard.

Better idea. Dont rice out your car and put a body kit on it. They look pretty sexy lowered about 1.5 inches and with a nice set of 17" rims. Then put the money into the motor where it belongs.

Its not even the lumpy idle at all lol the 288s are way too much cam. If you were aiming for 8s then sure go with them or if you had a 2.4 stroker. But here they're going to take away more power than if you had a set of 280s in there. Pick yourself up another 255 wally and throw it in the tank...

I'd say the 288s are overkill and to go with some 280s. I think with a pretty solid tune and some stellar driving its achievable. You're gonna need slicks all around for sure. (this is awd right?)

Any and all wiring changes will still have to be made but once those are done and you order the proper ems you will be able to plug it in set up your base map and go

If you gap them a .28 that thing wont run to save your life. You want to gap them at .028 to .032

you crank it in to make the idle go down. www.vfaq.com has a good guide on setting idle

Exactly. Ya i can crank my boost up to 25 pounds and it will run. But do i have a tune for it? No. Its gonna be slower than if i ran 15 which i had a tune for just because it will pull timing and all things like that. Get it all set up and slowly increase the boost and make sure your knock is down.

What the hell is stage one and stage two weight reduction lol did i miss some kind of fast and the furious bulletin here? Rule of thumb is generally for every 100 pounds of unsprung weight you gain .1 seconds. Start with a/c, rear seats and if you can handle it the sound deadening and such. It...

Man you need to be more clear here and tell us what you're talking about where you're at with your car lol. And why are you talking about bovs?? There's no need for an afpr unless you upgrade your pump to a 255lph pump or bigger. And if you're going with bigger injectors you're gonna need...

Man you cant go wrong for 250 bucks. You could part out the tranny and engine for more than that so you're set from the get go. It might even be worth it to get it running and in near-safety condition and sell it for $1500.

2g pistions are 7 bolt pistons. But there are also 1g 7 bolt pistons which i believe are still the 7.8:1 compression. So what you're looking for are the 2g 7 bolt pistons.

Cant 2 255 walbros in-tank flow more than one in tank and one in-line? Unless i read wrong...

Your not gonna get coolant in your oil just from letting it sit if your headgasket is gone. Take it out for a drive, boost around a bit and then take a look. Often the boost in the cylinders is what lifts the head and such and causes the fluid contamination.