That's correct.

Yeah, you can't really use belt deflection between pulleys to determine the proper tension (not on a timing belt). You either have to measure the distance between the top of the hydraulic tensioner and the tensioner arm or set it so that the grenade pin for the tensioner rod can be easily...

You know, looking again at your pics I think that I was wrong in saying that you need to use the stock cup. Sorry if I caused you any confusion. :)In post #10, looking at the pic of the stock parts item #2 is the washer that goes underneath the large rubber bushing. In the pic of the new...

NO! That's the problem, none of us do.As mentioned, your question is very vague. If you go to the doctor and say, "I don't feel good. What's wrong with me?" I guarantee you he won't be able to help you. Nonetheless, we are trying to help you out.BTW, nice smart ass response to a smart...

Eric, he told me via PM that he was able to find the correct one from a US dealership. He should be receiving it in 2 days. I hope it's the right one. :)

I installed a proper FPR solenoid. I also swapped out the Dodge Dakota vacuum canister for a larger one pulled off of another Mitsubishi. It looks kind of similar to the factory white one used with the Cyclone. One very noticeable difference now is how fast the valves open and close. When...

This shows the cup that we keep talking about.Stock dust boot with the metal cup in place.Dust boot with the cup removed. This is the top surface of the cup that the large bushing usually sits on. If not reusing this cup then you need to use a large washer below the bushing instead...

325# Hypercoils on Koni Yellows. It's a semi-DG setup meaning everything per his instructions but still using the stock upper mounts and bushings (for now). Not sure if it matters, but rear ride height is actually a bit HIGHER than stock as I'm going to try out the "stinkbug" mode.The ride was...

I installed a DC Sports rear STB. It's actually a very well made and rigid STB. But I'm surprised at how much harsher the rear suspension now feels. The difference is VERY noticeable. It replaced a flimsy no-name bar. Nothing else changed during the install.Is this because there is less...

Those bushings look fine. But again, it looks like you have to transfer the cup that goes on top of the bump stop over to the new ones. I don't see it in that last pic.In other words, those dust boots don't come with cups to replace the stock ones (I've seen one that does).

I would pull the shock assembly and recheck it. Make sure no parts are missing and that they're in the proper order. Make sure the cup (#12 in the diagram you linked to) is on there.EDIT: The cup is fitted into the top of the stock dust cover. I'm not familiar with the dust covers that you...

Do you know this was already suggested a week ago in the other thread? Just saying...Nonetheless, let us know if that resolves the issue.

Although this is for a FWD, the motor mount bolts should be the same.ColumbusDSM - 2G Turbo FWD Bolt & Fastener Wizard

Is this the same noise that you already asked about in this thread?http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/434907-rattling-noise-help.html

Do you have a CEL?

It's definitely not the fuel pressure solenoid.

I think I know the answer to this but just wanting to confirm. My Summit RPM switch is NOT a window type switch. It's activated above the set rpm and then deactivates when it drops back down below the set point.I've noticed that Link users are using a separate deactivation point. Is this just...

I think that's probably the EVAP solenoid for 1995-1997 models. I'm basing this on the metal case and color of the wires.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151542268-post36.html

I agree with GSLENK. Duralast's have never let me down. No personal experience with DieHard but have read good things about them.As mentioned, have your current battery tested first.

That looks like a stock WGA. But IIRC, my old Hahn upgraded actuator looked stock but had a stiffer spring inside. I'm not sure if there is something externally that would identify it as a stock appearing modified one.Test the PCV valve the way I mentioned previously.I'm not sure what might...

The rear in those pics is about 1.25" higher than stock.

If anyone's interested, this is a '99 GST on stock 16" wheels at the following height, as measured from the center of the wheel to the bottom edge of the fender. No, I'm not going to keep it like this. But it probably wont be a lot less either.Front 15.5" Rear 16.0" (actually a hair more...

I haven't decided on a final ride height yet. But if I were to keep the front close to stock (humor me here), then in order to get the desired rake I would have to set the rear to actually be higher than stock. Other than raising the CG, stressing the geometry and having a funky looking car with...

^^^Thanks for the pic. :) It sounds like Glenn switched his around to operate in the way pictured and got his performance back. This leaves little doubt for me that this is the correct way and that I've been running mine incorrectly all this time. :ohdamn:I wonder if the valves were failing...

No worries Glenn. Sounds like they got you on some good stuff. LOLI'm going to look for a FPR solenoid to use instead of the one that I currently have. Although my system seems to work when testing it from under the hood, it might not be behaving properly between shifts or frequent...

So now how are you running the vacuum lines to and from the solenoid?

Yep, do this.

I don't have any personal experience with those. But these are the ones that I'm using.Come to think of it, I don't have any personal experience with mine yet either. :pSPC Chry/Mits Front Camber Kit35850 - Adjustable Rear Control Arm Mounting Kit - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

Keri, any issues with hood clearance when you were installing it?

What about grinding the edge of the spacer where its contacting the lip of the stay?

Are you sure it's not supposed to mount where the subframe bushings are (large washers)? I've never seen the RRE bar but that's how I mounted my Tanabe bar.EDIT: Apparently the RRE and Tanabe bars do mount differently. So NVM. LOL...

So you're not supposed to reuse the large washers with the RRE bar?

You're lugging the motor by driving too slow for the gear that you're in. The rattling noise is knock...a lot of it. THIS IS VERY BAD! It's damaging your motor. Drive in a gear that keeps the rpm's up above 2500. Use only Premium gas for the higher octane (probably 92 in Ohio).

Do a boost leak test.

I had forgotten about that tool since I can't use one in my 2G with a 6 bolt. :thumb:

Good eye Eric. I had forgotten about that, but yeah, I did that too.

Ah, I saw that he had a '99 and assumed.....Reread his post and I got that same one (earlier version?) included in the package when I bought my mats too.If anyone's curious.

I agree with Bogus, do a leak down test so you know for sure.As he alluded to, it would suck if you spent the money to rebuild the head and replace the HG, spent the time to do the work, got it back together and find out the problem is in the bottom end and you have to start over.

I think this was directed at Glenn. But if not, I have an E3 16G. I believe the one listed in Glenn's signature is UTD.

Copied from the link that luv2rallye posted:

I would go back to the beginning and follow the vfaq guide.Timing Belt VFAQEDIT: Material removed after rereading your post.

Luckily for you, mine just happens to be out right now. The one in the pic looks identical to mine ('99 GST). So I'd say that MR480241 is the correct one.Here's mine.

Which guide are you following? Did you replace the hydraulic tensioner with a new one? What tool are you using to tension it? Is the belt ending up too tight or too loose?

Removing power from the ECU will cause it to have to relearn and adjust your fuel trims. The car can feel sluggish during this phase but that should resolve after driving it for a few days.Not sure about the dealer flashing an ECU. I've never heard of it.

It's not a flashable ECU so that's not it. I've never seen the insides of a '97 unit so I can't help there. Do you have a CEL?I agree with Wes that something probably happened to a connecter pin or wire when you removed the harnesses and pushed the wire bundles out of the way. If the wires...

Try doing another boost leak test but pressurize it up to about 20psi and spray soapy water on all joints, at flanges, etc. and look for the bubbles.When pressurized, also check if any air is leaking out of the BOV through the recirc. port. Maybe a bad BOV?Are you certain the MBC is...

I've been hearing echoes in most threads it seems. Usually more than one, like the familiar "hello, hello, hello, hello........". LOL

Wipe clean the residue off of the idler and tensioner pulleys and see if anything changes. A few years ago, I was told that this actually can cause a whine, but I've never personally confirmed that. The residue should go away as the lettering on the outside of the belt wears off.My Gate's...

Very, very cool! The smoothness of the turbine shaft looks really good (although I have no idea what a bad one would look like :p).As an aside, some electron microscopes are actually able to see atoms now! Saw it on Nova recently.

I honestly can't remember the reason why I went with this solenoid when installing it a couple of years ago. I know that I tried several different solenoids that are normally open and then close when energized. For some reason, when I tested them this one worked the best.Glenn, how does the...