1g in my opinion are more classic. Like was said the 1g is going to have alot of maintenance, just because of all the mileage. Non abused 1g are hard to come by at least out here in NJ.

If you notice the motor mount on he driver side, it attaches to the front of the motor. Putting chains in this spot held down with washers and and nus will, do the trick. Im going to try and find a picture for you on here. You would of course need to drop the tranny before hand.

:notgood: :tease: Get them they're really cool. :toobad: But i prefer :dsm: stlye doors

MPI fuse is on the battery on the 1g. I would have jumper cables set up, and I turn it over for about a 6-10 seconds and do it a couple times till I get that oil pressure going and to not cook the starter.

Am I the only one concerned about the 30psi boost? Try to rerun vacuum lines to stock set up here is an awesome diagram. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html

Why the fancy coolant piping to a stock radiator? Cool oil cap though.

Do you have the 420a originally non-turbo, or the 420a turbo? All of this will effect which one it is. JNZtuning has both of them, so that might help you distinguish between the two

Anyone who will pay more then 15k for a DSM is at a Mitsu dealer buying an Evo as we speak

Bump

What about my oil gear situtation, should i be worrying about it.

to add to his question, do any other mistu alternators fit a 91 talon. like say a 3000 gt

Ok to try and make a long story I had some work on my car and do the some basic maintance, and they went ahead and put new oil gears in the old case without checking specs, or anything like that. (Person is related to me and work was free but whatever) So when we go to start the car the jb weld...

I would say stick with wht your doing as far as getting in bolts and slowly tightening. Me and my friend have done both of ours with no alignment tool. Just get it as close as you can get a bolt or two and try and jiggle that puppy home, carefully as possible. Unless you're wailing on it the bll...

I would remove the radiator, it just gives u alittle extra room without all the fans in the way.

If the car was in neutral then i cant see there being a problem. Think about it, if u were on a hill, in neutral the car will naturally want to roll. You're fine.

Block it off.

Wiggle, while someone pushes, or try to get some bolts on and start to try and tighten.

You could probably retap it because the head is aluminum, but it will be so much easier to get a new head. There is plenty out there, and the odds of rethreading it correctly are slim.

90k on 91 tsi

I wasn't sure if it was the same, but i threw it up there. Sorry.

There is also a canister that collects gas fumes and reroutes them back into the intake. This could be leaking.

I run a vacuum line from the jpipe to my wastegate (thats somewhere around 12), on my 1g. No bcs however, I bought the car with none.

If Your Doing; Doing It By Yourself It Will Be Close To Impossible, I Would Dare To Say Invite Some People Over For Some Pizza/ Tranny Wrestling. Its A Pain The :beatentodeath: But The More Merrier. The More People Pushing And Pulling The Better. Good Luck.

Warming Up The Car Also May Help You Loosten The Bolts On The Exhaust. Just Another Idea

you might be right, but the fwd 2g are different from the fwd 1g. its all about the gas tank location. but i do believe they sell 1g fwd exhaust

The strut is probably the easiest way to go, if you dont want to buy tools or break things. But buying tools is good, ya never know when you're gunna need them.

The fwd set ups are different then the awd (gas tank, rear diff, etc.). You need to find one for fwd, but a fwd laser, talon and eclipse are all the same.

Bumpers

The drivetrain on the 1g's are a bit noisy so that could be what you're hearing.

We all have our opinions yes i do agree the pcv system works great during idle, but under boost when it is needed I believe it is insufficient. 90% of people block off their EGR's so I dont see how I'm majorly changing the function of the car.

Hmmmmm.

Hey, I'm eliminating my PCV valve, and i was going to replace it with that breather it connects to on the intake manifold. I had thought I read that they're the same threads, but not sure. Secondly, if i were go to say NAPA or something to order one of these what would I call it? Also could i...

Try a new ecu they arent to ard to find. I cant see how your valve cover stopped the motor from starting. If its stumbling check all your intake make sure thats all in snug.

They call them street discs for a reason i believe. Not positive on that, however.

If I'm not mistaken the water return from the turbo is recirculated to underneath the thermostat

I would get a whole kit, you cant go wrong with that. Also in the end you're going to find you still may need more. Having extra gaskets is good you never know when you'll need them. I got a whole kit when i pulled my motor and i found myself at Napa quite frequently ordering even more.

Call me dicey but i replaced the bolts for my motor mount with turbo bolts. I think they work.

First, is the stick not moving at all? Or is just not going into gear? Trying dropping it in second before putting it in reverse.Second, when driving it, did you notice any grinding of any kind? I would have trouble believing the trans going bad from sitting. Well pushing the clutch in...

Aftermarket stereo? When you shut off the car try and notice anything still trying to run.

Old Man Are you the guy sells the dsmlink stuff?DSMULATOR i would port it anyway, i would hate to see you throw it back on the car and be running crazy oil pressure.

I have a few friends that recently did that, doing one of them myself I'm on top of that. The problem was they have all had their cars modded for so long that they cant remeber wether to block or not 100% anyways. Well some bearings to unalign. Thank you sir, your wisdom is not of this earth.

sorry, very sorry, im down with the flu i read that like 20 times. Yes there is a hole on the bearing and do i line that up with the flow of oil? Or do i not, line up the hole with the oil flow, because I am eliminating the balance shafts?

The side that has the two of them.

When replacing the bears, the ones that have the holes, how important is it that they match up? I aligned the one closest to the front case but the one farther in is very hard to tell. Suggestions? Note: I am eliminating my balance shafts.

No matter what you get you will be under that hood. I'm as newbie as they come and i didnt really appreciate what i was getting into. From wheel bearings to me having my motor out of my car now, but you have to start somewhere. But oh man when you got the DSM fever, WOW. They are just amazing.

I would listen to Oldman he seems very wise in the ways of such things. i used th exactor kit VERY VERY carefully and i got two of mine out. Which ever way you decide may the force be with you.

I wouldnt buy a used ball joint throw in a new one and know that you'll probably never need to fix it again. Getting the arm off wont be hard like wret said but i would take it to a local trustworthy shop, say like a Napa. They would have the tools to knock out the ball joint and it woudn't...

My bearing went the other day and i had about an inch of play and managed to get that wild stallion home. She blew on the highway, it was raddling so hard i thought my timing went.

I would look into you ecu. Get one and if it works great, and if it doesnt you can always sell it.