No rtv required. The gasket I'd a crush to seal style gasket. It would be bad to risk getting rtv onto your injector nozzles or into the engine.Darn, beat me to it

I would check for a leaking clutch slave and master cylinders, or in any of the hydrolic lines in between.

I would check your timing and all electrical connections to make sure nothing rattled loose. Check the basics, timing, spark, fuel.

Tdc stands for top dead center, when a piston is at its highest possible point during its revolution. A coil pack will have no influence on a compression test.

Have you performed a boost leak test? Checked base idle and timing?

What are you using to tune with?

I mounted mine about a foot to the left of my brake booster almost near the center of the firewall. I have a fuel lab fpr and Guage and it fits good and looks nice when the hood is up.

Have performed a boost leak test? Is there any wiring you may have taken off that hasn't been plugged in or has a loose connection. Did you remove the timing belt when replacing the tensioner. Did you hold cams in place before removing belt? I would check it hasn't jumped a tooth.

It's really all about your own personal prefrences. I like simple five spoke rims, nothing flashy. Everyones ideas of a "good" look will be different. Do what fits the budget and your personality. But god please no spinners lol.

Worn out. Rebuild and replace all worn parts or you will end up in this boat again.

Have you identified which cylinder the misfire is on?

A Wideband should be very high on that list. Your going to need it to run safely and not destroy your engine.

He didn't say you messed it up. The person that did install the heli coil messed it up when they didn't tap out the new threads into the heli coil deep enough which has now caused a stud to break off in the heli coil. No blame has been put on you. I would suggest welding a nut to the broken stud...

The 272 don't require springs and retainers but are highly recommended. The 272 will help to increase top end power but stock springs do not perform well at higher rpms so upgrading the springs and retainers would be in your best interest. Shop around for the combo 272/272, you should find it...

I would say around 750 is a good area for the base idle.

The 2g take the cake as far as handeling goes on stock suspensions. The 2g also has a smoother gear box, the 1g are natorious of being very "notchy" in the gear transitions.

Have you adjusted the biss screw? I have rpm surge coming to stops and it helped my issue greatly.

I had a phantom shake on acceleration, found it to be a broken bolt on the l/f c/v shaft carrier where it bolts to the block. I had on broken bolt and the other was walking out. Something to check out also if you have the time.

Ah your car has some cancer, compared to buying a new car I think it's worth it. Be sure to have a good alignment shop go through it after so you don't eat your tires off or I case the caster is off.

Did you bench bleed the clutch master cylinder before installing? The can sometimes be a pain to get all of the air out otherwise in my experiance. I may also try tapping on the slave cylunder and master while bleeding to try and knock any air bubbles that might be trapped to break free and...

No leaks anywhere I take it, did you adjust the rod on the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder at all? Where did you get the parts? New oem or aftermarket?

I agree, better to spend the extra time and be sure all is correct, your already half way there. Are the bolts for the cv intermediate shaft broken off in the block?

I'm not 100% sure which bolts on the knuckle your trying to remove?

So are you just running a vacuum line straight from your compressor outlet nipple or are you still utilizing the factory electronic boost controller?

The wiggle would indicate a bad inner or outer tie rod end if there is only left and right movement and no up and down movement. Worn suspension bushings, ball joints, possible broken springs could all effect your handling. Have you ever had the vehicle aligned of late?

Check for spark, fuel, and compression. Those Are the bare basics for engine operation. Start with those and see where you stand.

According to Wikipedia, the '94 tsi is 172.8in (14.4ft) in length and 66.7in (5.6ft) wide. Go a little extra wide and long and you should be in business.

That is some seriously low vacuum at idle. have you checked to see if there are any vacuum leaks after the throttle body? Perhaps your intake manifold gasket is not sealing. As for your bov, the fact that its not recirculated will most certainly cause issues, but it should hold pressure up to a...

Have you tried to move the starter around, the bolt holes for the starter are slightly elliptical which allows you to move the starter up, down, left, and right a small amount. I would see if possibly the starter is to far away from the flywheel teeth, causing your grinding noise.

That small bump sounds like carbon build up due to the piston not quiet reaching the top of the cylinder during its revolutions. IMO i would say to just hone the cylinders to clean them up and re-ring the pistons.

Sounds like the serp. belt to me. Did the belt come in any contact with oil or coolant while you were doing the timing belt?

+1 APEXI N1 3" from turbo back. Has a nice deep tone, no vtec rice noise from this exhaust

Can you be a little more precise? Is it hanging around 1500 rpms? Higher or lower? Have you checked for any boost leaks since rebuilding your turbo?

This is a problem i see on fords also. What i ask my customers to do short of paying for costly repairs is to take a day and drive the vehicle under as many driving conditions they can reproduce as listed by drive cycle peramiters. Do not turn the vehicle off at anytime during this and after...

Agreed, charcoal canister.

Thank you for your service RedVengeAPX! Hope we can all meet up sometime this summer.

According to nys inspection regulations, the fact that the car is missing its cat is an automatic point of failure for inspection. Some shops can really be a stickler about such things. What codes is it throwing?

It sounds to be cranking a little slow, possible that the starter drive is hanging up against the flywheel giving you the extended crank/no start

You should be able to remove the broken studs without removing the hub. With a hammer and punch you can bang out the broken studs, there should be enough room to slip the new studs in and draw them tight to the hub. As for the abs, your brakes will still work though in slippery conditions the...

Disconnect your battery, i would take it right out and store off the vehicle if possible.

I feel it would be best to drop the motor and remove the shafts as a whole unit over cutting them out in small sections. I would be afraid of getting small metal bits all over the engine and possibly into places it should never be.

Your belt could be glazed over from being loose and slipping. Even though everything has been tightened the belt may not be able to grip under heavy load.

the 7 bolt is prone to crank wall where as it is nearly unheard of on the 6 bolt. crank wall is premature thrust bearing failure

You can get the revised lifters for your head that will clear up your lifter tick, there around $150 for a complet set at SlowBoy. I'm assuming your still running your stock exhast manifold which could deffinitly be your new sound.

Are you going through coolant? White smoke from the exhaust? I would have to guess your head gasket is probably ok, did you replace the thermostat?

Disconnect the battery, wait like five minutes and hook up the air bag. Is it the stock eclipse air bag or and Evo air bag made for the steering wheel? By any means it should all be ok, but im not 100% on it. Maby hook it up but dont install it, re-connect the battery and see what happens.

It sounds a caliper slider bolt. You say you stripped one off, it should just come out after that. ou may want to run a tap through the holes after you get the bolt out to clean them up and get ride of any metal fileings

If your worried about destroying a motor because it has a ton of miles........ i guess you should determine the state of your motor first, do a compression check, change your plugs and wires, Air, and fuel filters are all good places to start to help prevent problems down the road.

A capacitor is really only used to remove voltage spikes from reaching critical electrical componets (PCM, your Amp), im not sure if it would improve the performance of other electrical parts but it would be interesting to know.

A good cleaning agent will remove the carbon build up, but as for keeping it off...... The exhaust gasses are coming out of the exhaust and hitting your bumper leaving behind the carbon, I would get a little bit of a longer exhaust hanger to lower the muffler away from the bumper