I personally don’t like a super loud exhaust all the time so I put an electric Cutout on my Talon. It opens up just before the cat to a 3.5” open dump. When closed it sounds like stock. When it’s open it sounds like a side exit, loud as hell. The car still passes emissions testing which is...

Nice work! That is some grade A high quality welding for sure.

Those coax looking plugs were for the 6disc cd changer I believe.If you can post a video or sound clip of the "screaming sound" thy might help diagnose. However to me that sounds like a whining pump to me. What kind of trans fluid did you put in?

Great Stuff! These Automatic cars are really moving. It looks like a nice smooth run!

Sounds like you got this figured out, but what I meant was a Slip on Type High flow Cat that you can band clamp in place. The parts Gus has should work perfect for you. The Downpipe and cat have slip joints, the pipes slide together. They can then be welded or clamped together. There is NO...

Just get a clamp on High Flow Cat. They still pass emissions but have a better flow rate and will clamp right up to a 2.5" or 3" exhaust/downpipe

I'd buy it for 15-20k probably for 30k if its really nice quality.

I believe it's the rear diff as well. From the video I can tell...Normmaly with the rear raised and someone spinning a rear wheel the other wheel normally rotates the opposite direction as the wheel being spun. It looks like the Diff exploded and locked up the rear.

The door pin switches are Negative Trigger. So you want to connect the + wire from your LED lights to a fused 12v constant source. Then run the - negative wire of the LED's to the door pin switch wire. When the doors open the ground will connect and your LED's will come On!

Except now (2013) they are $67.99 ROFLInflation is a Bittch!I like those decals tho...it almost looks painted on!

Try a Timken bearing they always worked well for me.On that center axle nut, can you add another washer on the axle to bring you back on to the good part of the threads? Or is there no good threads left?Also how much psi in your tires? Running high psi can cause a lot of harshness to be...

The HY35 spools up for me at 3200-3800 rpm depending if my exhaust is open or not. I have a 3.5" electric cutout just before my cat. When the Cutout is open the HY35 spools up around 3200 and hits full boost a split second later. When I have the pipe closed it will spool slower around 3800 rpm...

How about an HY35? It has a smaller Hot side but the same cold side as a 7 blade HX35. Spools up quick for me!

Hey, any update on this? Was it a rod knock or something else? Did you get it fixed?

If it has been sitting for years or any length of time always start with your maintenance. Check the TIMING belt asap/ change oil/ spark plugs/ check coolant/Fluids.If the car wont stay idling you can try to adjust the BISS screw on the throttle body.Do you have a Check engine light on?

You should be able to connect right to the 2 fat wires that come off the Stock OEM door lock motors. The car has relays built in for the stock motors.

If you're just replacing the stock door lock motor you can connect to the stock motor wires. The car already has relays built in for the DL motors.Or are you putting them into a car that had manual locks? If so they you will need relays to flip flop the polarity of the motor.

It's hard to tell from the video if your pulley is bad or not, but trust me it makes a WHOLE lot of noise when they go bad. Sounds JUST like a rod knock. I know it seems like a pulley could not cause the noise, but it does.Do a search for harmonic dampener or crank pulley separating. There is...

Try looking at the Master and see if there is any fluid leaking from behind the clutch pedal. My Master cylinder went bad when I let my car sit for a long time. I swear the seals dry up from not being used.If you see any wetness around the master push rod then replace the Master and...

Doesn't sound like a Rod knock to me. Have you checked that crank pulley yet? In that last video the Pulley looks bad to me. See that split between the 2 halves? that's Rubber between there. The rubber splits and causes the pulley to separate.Take a flat head screwdriver or a prybar and stick...

Sounds a lot better than that last shit you posted haha.But yeah that sounds better for sure! You'll be happier with that decision. I used to have a 99 GS 420a and it was cool back in 1998 when it was brand new but then when I realized how slow it was...I must have spent 30 grand trying to...

For me I honestly cannot tell the difference if the engine has the Balance Shafts in or not. I feel NO extra vibrations with the BS eliminated.I think the 4 cylinder engine is asymmetrically out of balance. The V type engines balance themselves out and naturally run smoother.I think the...

Looks nice, how well does it line up to the turbo side? It seemed small when I tried to line it up to my turbo. Hows that solder hold up to the high temps?

One more solution to this problem might be selling your manifold and buying one that is more centered with less alignment issues. It's a nice looking mani tho!I have to point out that in the link I posted Jusmx quoted the Holset Manual where it states the Oil return line should be no...

No you can't use the 2g oil return flange on a Holset. It's too narrow.

What kind of clutch line do you have? stock or braided stainless? Did you replace the Master cylinder recently? Have you tried Bleeding some more?

Pipe bead helphttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

I did the free Balance shaft elimination 5 years ago and its still perfect! I just cut the damn shaft and made my own stubby shaft works great! The I turned the bearings and bought the hyundai plug. Never had an issue.

Depending on what turbo you're running 10an should be okay. IMO when it comes to oil drain you can never go too big. It helps flow the oil through the turbo. Im sure its fine. I guess it looked smaller in the pics....hahah That's what she said.What kind of turbo is that?read this...

Ouch man sorry to see that..I think Colt4g63 is right. Looks like the battery is unbolted. And probably No cover over the Positive Batt terminal. Also if you add any electronics to your car make sure they are FUSED properly. Or else you can burn your car down.. Good thing it wasn't parked in...

I'd be more worried about turning it right off the turbo. That may cause a restriction. To me It looks like the drain hole is still below the bracket. So make the turn just under the bracket and then slope it down into the pan.I think you're better off having it drop straight down. and I...

No Tie into the thicker blue wire...That is the accessory wire that comes on and off with the key. Should be fine as long as you are not drawing any major current through that line. If all you use it for is a signal to the amps, you're fine.If you use the red wire the amps will stay on all...

I don't think that stuff will hold but that's just my opinion.If you're a cheapo like me you can slid a coupler over it and clamp both sides...or if you can't get the coupler over try it with some petroleum jelly. (lube it up)If you're not cheap then buy a new pipe.Or have it welded the...

I would take all those fittings off and run a larger diameter 1" Rubber drain line. Turn it the other way and go around that engine mount bracket. I would replace that bracket also. Probably not a great Idea to CUT into that haha.IMO those fitting neck down too tight. Looks like 1/2" inside...

Well Unless the alarm is triggering at night then it should not drain the battery. The amp shouldn't either if you're using the remote wire to shut off the amp when the car is not running.My question is...How old is the battery? What is its condition? Does it look swollen on the sides. Also...

Or you can look for a Talon TSi or TSi AWD...If you go with a Talon it will likely be cheaper to buy a nice AWD car. I see 2g AWD Talons on Cleveland Craigslist for 3k and up and they are in decent shape....Better shape than that busted up 420a

Like YZFR1 said, Sometimes simply draining the oil and inspecting it can give you some answers.I would drain the oil into a CLEAN pan and then pour it though a funnel with a coffee filter or a piece of a white t-shirt at the end. When all the oil has drained through the filter remove the...

Man I wouldn't use that thing...that's like building a house on a cracked foundation...why take the risk. Bare blocks are cheap...I sold my old 7 bolt in great shape for 60 bucks.Take it to a Machine shop and have them Magnaflux the block, Only they can tell you how extensive that crack is...

Was the overflow bottle actually boiling or was it BUBBLING? It sounds to me like you're pushing coolant. Unfortunately this would mean the head gasket is failing and allowing combustion gasses to flow into the coolant chambers and force the coolant (push coolant) back into the overflow Bottle...

I have that exact setup. NPR 7.8:1 pistons in a 6 bolt N/T block. I run the balls off this engine and its always been great! I haven't had any problems in the 4 or 5 years since I built the engine! I daily drive my car in the summer and race it often. Seems to handle not having oil squirters...

Looks good Mike! Love the car, You Driving it to the shootout?

If you recently changed injectors, check the injector seals for proper seating. If they are leaking it will cause the engine to intake extra air and idle fast.

Heat up the outer spindle area with a torch and tap around the bearing plate with a hammer to break it loose. Then use a flat chisel and hit the seam between the bearing plate and the spindle. Moving around the entire 360* till you bust it loose. Try not to damage anything. Just use enough force...

If you already tried to crank that bolt into the car you may have damaged the threads on the captive nut welded to the car. I would run a 10x1.25 TAP through the hole to clean up any chewed threads. Just to be sure you don't damage the new bolts or further cross thread the holes.

Did you clean the disc and flywheel surface really good with brake cleaner before you reassembled it?Sounds like you may have some left over oils on the flywheel surface.As for the sounds, if the engine/drive train is bouncing around it could just be the exhaust or something. Make a video of...

I'm glad Buschurs adding a GTR class....it add's some variety to the line up, Its not like they will be kicking out DSM's to fit more GTR's in the place...there is enough room for A LOT more Racers! Those guys were there anyway so why not make a class for them. I agree its annoying to see those...

Well if you have a Leak in the Intake Manifold gasket/ injector seals or the Throttle body, the car can go lean during idle. I would still do a BLT to rule out the easy stuff first. Could Be something electrical loosely connected and making intermittent contact.

Had a lot of fun yesterday at the Sport Compact Nationals, But where the hell was everybody? Wish more people would have come. Good times tho.

I would take a piece of 1"x1" angle iron and weld or bolt it across the two outer brackets that can then be bolted down to the car with the two outer bolts.I drew a Crude picture, the RED line is supposed to be the angle iron.if you can weld, you can tack on some studs to Bolt the middle...

Look in the Vendor section of this website. Sheptrans can get you one I'm sure. I would look into getting an entire Trans rebuild or buying a used trans.