As the title says I wanted to get some input from others about running the exhasut out the passenger side of the car just in front of the rear tire. My reason for this is less bends and not having to squeeze a 3" pipe up over the axle. Thanks for the input . Travis
#1 Gotta agree with silver bullit. It all depends on how well it has been cared for. I have a 91 GST with 180,000 miles on it and still runs good. If someone had it and tinkered with it without the proper knowledge it could blow up by 80,000 miles.
#2 Maintenance is like any other vehicle...
Honestly it sounds like you have a problem with the main feed wire going to the starter. When you say you have power to the starter do you mean the starter spins over or just that you checked the voltage at the starter terminal?. Also recheck the main fuses at the battery. Dont visually look at...
Not sure what you were looking at but what I saw on thier site was the UIP-2GA and the UIP-2GB for about 200.00 together. This pipe replaces your piping with the stock bov completely. The Dejon pipes goes from the throttle body down to the sidemount intercooler. Of course that is if you buy both...
Really it boils down to how much effort you want to put into it. Obviously removing the whole harness is going to be a lot cleaner but also the most difficult.
OK for starters if the threads are ok on the axle shaft you can carefully grind the mushroomed end down until the nut fits back on. I would try to use a big three jaw puller to get the shaft out of the hub. If it was replaced recently it should come out fairly easy unless it was installed...
I guess my first question to you would be does your state do yearly vehicle inspections?If yes then your car will fail and wont be road legal. I personally would have just removed the fuse to disable it.
I have actually done a lot of research on this. If you can find a 4G64 from an early Galant VR4 that is a 6-bolt. It is a straight forward swap. If you get a later block that is 7-bolt then you have to plug holes on top. The G4CS is found in early 89-91 Hyundai sonata's. This block is a 6-bolt...
The only recommendation I can make is to call your local dealer and talk to the parts department. They may be able to tell the year from the engine casting number. Sorry I cant help anymore than that. Travis
As was said we need way more info than this. There are many different seals in and on your engine that we cant even guess. Post back with more info so we can help. Travis
For starters you need to get a friend to help you find out where the noise is coming from. Try to narrow down wether it is coming from the tranny area or engine area. Find out then report back and we can help you further. Travis
First of all you should never replace the head gasket without resurfacing the head because it not only cleans it it makes sure it is perfectly flat. If it is warped even slightly this will cause problems. The other thing is did you replace the thermostat? Any time we do a head gasket we always...
If I read this right you dont have any trouble with 2nd,3rd,4th or 5th gears? If it is only first and reverse it might be a tranny problem. Just for the sake of it have a friend get in the car and you look underneath and watch the throw of the slave rod as your friend pushes down on the clutch...
Just as free advice check with the dealer on the price. In rare instances I have actually seen it where the part was cheaper from the dealer. Not always but once in a while. As far as Autozone they usually carry fairly good qaulity parts. Just check on the price difference and use your best...
I have found in previous experiences that the only differences between abs and non abs are the fact the axle has a tone ring or not and the knuckle has a sensor or not. They are usually identical other than that. Set the two knuckles side by side and make sure everything else looks the same and...
Boy ya gotta love the backyard repair.Something like that would be a quick fix to get you home and then do a correct fix the next day. You dont do things like that because the last thing you want is to burn the electrical harness up. Glad you found it and I hope it solves the problem completely.
If it is the strut you will get a lot of bounce from the vehicle going over bumps. If it is the mount it will usually clunk or rattle over bumps. I always say replace the mount when you do the strut and struts dont last well much past about 100,000 miles depending on brand. Stock original struts...
Not to get off topic but I am jealous. An 88 4 runner!!! I am having to sell my truck because with three boys it doesnt make sense. Shes all there to. 11" of lift,straight axle swap and an injected 302. Lots of fun
Dont give up quite so fast as I said in a previous post the street flare might be a great option.
As another note this summer when it gets above 50 daily.(I live in Vermont) I am going to make my own widebody kit for my 90 GSX.I am going to do it in steel with two front fenders and a second...
The second pic is the street flare and they are about 1.5 to 2 inches wide. May be a better option.???????????????
The only thing with the taco cutout flare is the front fender has a similar shape as my 94 front fender. It is more rounded but still has a straight ish line at the top
Okay here goes on some pics. I took these from 4 feet away exactly. The flares stick out around 3.5 to 4 inches. Both front and rear at each inside corner measure about 30.5 inches. Hopefully my pics aren't to big because I am to stupid to resize them. Any other ques or pics needed let me...
I can tell you the Bushwacker flares for the Toyota dont look like these flares as far as the shape. They stick out like I said about 3 1/2 inches but it is all the way around. They dont turn in at the bottom. I will see if I can find a pic of my truck to post on here.
No problem. It may take me a day or two to get back to you because of the weather but I will get you all the dimensions I can. One thing I can tell you is they stick out about 3 1/2" from the body. I will try to trace out templates of the curve of the truck fender and the 1G fender to see if...
What are you looking for as far as dimensions. I own a 94 Toyota truck with the Bushwacker cut out flares on it so I can get you any measurement you want. Let me know. Travis:thumb:
Okay Ebay ones will most likely crack. Mine did and when it did the wastegate came off and went through the radiator which sucks. If you dont wrap it then you need a heat shield otherwise the under hood temps will sky rocket and anything close to the header will start to melt. Get new gaskets...
Okay if I read it right you cap off the A1 angled line and the E line. Then you tee into the P line and hook up your two hoses to the tee for the P line and the E line.In effect you have the E and P tee together and hook up to one line on the throttle body( the P line). The E and A1 are capped...
I would have to say it sounds like the spiders gears are blown in the rear diff. This would cause the locking up of the tires trying to turn a corner and the binding when you press in the clutch. Also when they blow it makes an awfull noise(most of the time). Just my .02 but if it is cheap...
First of all shocks don't hold a car up the springs do. Now that's out of the way you would be surprised how easily a control arm can bend under the right conditions. As for the shock try bouncing the frontend on that side and see if it bounces up and down. If it does then the shock is working...
\You cood have atire wit the belts seperating. Sounds like your problem. Go to a tire shop and have them check the balance on your rear tires. If it is bad it will show up on the balancer.
Your site is a good offer if his fpr had an lines at all. The ebay ones have like a 1/8 npt ports on them which sucks. Its not even close to an aeromotive style.
Right out of the gate I can tell you that you are going to have a problem adapting it to the fuel rail because the adapters they give you wont work. The adapters you need to buy from like extreme psi. The only problem is the adapters you can buy are designed for a -6 or -8 an line and wont...
OK first off dont flame me for not searching. I have been searching so long my eyes hurt. I have checked here, RRE, Apexi,Prostreetonline and every other site that popped up searching. I am getting ready to install my SAFC 2 and the problem I am having is that the unit I have has 11 wires coming...
If I remember from looking at the schematic last nite it is a straight shot from the ecm to the injector so it should ohm out to 0 . Same for the other wire that goes to the resistor.
Are you ready to do some work? First of all you need to ohm the wires and make sure they are ok. Cylinder #4 injector wires are black w/ red-- goes to resistor pack terminal 3 which should be the wire all the way to the left on the resistor. The second wire should be light green w/ white which...
For starters do the taboo thing unless you have to pass smog where you are. It might fail on a visual. I did it to my daily driver abd have had no problems. As for the boost controller I dont know the turbo smart ones but is it a needle and seat design or a ball and spring? The needle and seat...
Thanks for the quick shout back. I figured it would be okay seeing as how the 2G s are this way. After you cut yours did you do anything to strengthen the end you cut ie welded in a plate? Thanks again
Do an internet google search for 4g64 swap. There are a bunch of sites with usefull info that might give you the answer you need. You might even try 4G64.com for starters.
Do a search on here. Someone had taken thiers and moved it into the area to the drivers side bumper cover. He even found a bolt hole to just mount it right up to .
I cant offer advice as to where it goes but if you look inside the plug and see if it looks dusty this is a good indication that it is unused and probably was there for some other option that your vehicle does not have.