i was out with my girlfriend, pulled up at a stop sign behind my friend who has an old, beater Escort. he sees me in his rearview, and drops the clutch. so we start rippin up the hill, and i'm laughing because i keep letting off the gas to keep from hitting him. he signals for his driveway, i...
my PTT does the same thing, with the chattering at idle. one thing i learned right away about twin disc's, is that you do not want to over-extend the pressure plate fingers. for that reason i use a pedal stop with mine, and have it adjusted so that it only goes far enough not to drag. otherwise...
did you swap the booster too? i've been running one in my DD, and i also put one in my other 1g as well! i kept the factory booster though. im curious if i should upgrade that as well.
it helps to use a prybar to keep the torque converter with the transmission, before you completely seperate the engine and transmission. try to keep the torque converter on the transmission as best as you can - it likes to spill a lot of fluid when you dont ;)
It would be worth your while to check the wiring from the O2 sensor, to the ECU. Get a FSM for the electrical section, and an ohmmeter, and get to work!
awesome! i will be trying the .080" restrictor that i found here: Turbo Oil feed Flange 0.08" restrictor T3 T4 Very Flat | eBayi will try to remember to post back on my results, car should be running within the next month and a half or so!
thank you Justin, you were the one i was hoping would respond to this!would i be better off buying something like this?EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Partsor should i go with something like the red FP filter/restrictor?thanks again for your feedback!edit: this...
recently picked up an PTE SCM61 in a DSM bolt on housing. i did some searching, and came up with no results on oil feed specs. this is a journal bearing turbo, im curious as to how i should oil this thing. i figured that being a journal bearing turbo, that an OFH feed would work well. should i...
could have either a restriction somewhere in the cooling system, possibly a stuck thermostat, air pocket in the system... and on the bad end of things, a head gasket issue. start by bleeding out the cooling system again, make sure you purge all of the air out, and see if that helps you!also...
i got the opportunity to help a friend install a CXracing FMIC kit.a month or two later, i put on an ETS street core, which the CXracing kit is copying.honestly, i wish i had put his CXracing one on, then the ETS, and logged the two for IAT's to tell a difference. same everything, boost...
like bryan stated above, if the clutch pedal assembly has play, you need to rebuild it.this requires buying the clutch pedal parts, and its recommended to get a set of upgraded bushings as opposed to using mitsubishi parts.that can all be found here, except the bushings...
the 91 and 92 GVR4's were OBD1, all the car parts places local only have OBD2 scanners. i'm going out on a fairly safe assumption... unless he has an imported GVR4 with the twin turbo V6. if thats the case, im wrong, and thats pretty sweet :Dif its a 91 or 92 GVR4, try this: ECU Code Checking
^ what he said. very easy fix!i had the same issue with my 6776. i also put a very slight touch of loctite on all of my compressor housing bolts before i tightened them all back in. this is not necessary, but good for peace of mind.
it looks as if that vacuum actuator is directly in line with something on the center differential side. i first thought of those switchable AWD/2WD JDM transmissions, but i've never seen one in detail enough to identify it. very interesting none the less! i agree with the above post, take it...
is the center differential stock, or welded? same on viscous coupling, is it stock, welded, eliminated? also, is there any play within the bearing for the drivers side halfshaft that bolts to the block?i experienced some pretty uncomfortable driving when i broke the spider gears in my first...
Justin, could you please elaborate about this BB service through Garrett? I thought the only option, period, was a new CHRA? Curious to this as I've got a good amount of mileage on my 3052 (30-35k)All this makes me re-think about the coming future, as this turbo just isn't going to last...
nice day here in CT, around 50 out this afternoon.- got the snow tires off
- put the evo8 enkeis back on
- installed k-sport coilovers
- adjusted coilovers & dropped car pretty good
- test drove :sneaky: :thumb:
- no problems!!!wooooo!!!!!! :rocks:
mainer, i can really relate to your situation. im 24, and have been depressed for a very long time. ive been in and out of the doctor's since 6th grade trying to get better. no medication has helped me, no counseling has helped me, etc. this is not to say that these things wont help anybody...
my friend mike's 1g. pretty 90 awd.my grey 92 gsx, shes gone now :(my blue 92 tsi (someone pushed the heater too close to my door last winter ><)
tires are 245/45/17 hankook ventus evo's. got them for under 400 brand new this summer. no rubbing issues what so ever, riding on...
i tried searching all over with no luck. i have seen threads on other boards and on here throughout the years (pre V3) of people running the HKS VPC/GCC combo with DSMlink v2.5. my setup utilizes a VPC/GCC and 660 chip with 680's. i love the way the car drives, and i cant currently afford to...
it was an all brand new setup. std size bearings with eagle 4340 2.3 stroker crank, manley h beam's, ross 9.0:1 pistons.the pistons were installed correctly, im not worried about that, its blatant as of which side has larger indents for the intake valves anways.my main cap tangs face...
i bought them brand new. the manley's had both oil tangs (tang for bearing) on the same side. they are all pointing on the intake side. im just scared of starting it up and spinning every bearing because of it not facing the right way.
i have Manley H - Beam's, and im not quite sure which way the oil tangs on the bearings should face. mine are pointing towards the intake side. however, on another stock 6 bolt i took apart, they were facing the other way.... are my rods attached backwards? its just buggin me!the build i...
i so agree. i picked up mine from a buddy partin out his 2g, bought it for $300 and that is a steal considering they want a little over 6 just for the intercooler alone. its a nice kit i wish it was only half the price! i loved doin that install on my 2g it was a breeze.
if you are attempting to keep the stock foglights, check out the hahn racecraft kit. i use it on my 2g, and it bolts to the same bracket that holds your stock fogs, so id imagine you can keep them as well. good luck!
my buddie ronnie swapped a 96 tsi awd over, full conversion of a 7 bolt awd auto car, to a 6 bolt 5 speed car. if i recall correctly it needed:2g awd trans
2g 5 speed transfer case
2g 5 speed rear end and driveshaft
2g 5 speed pedal assembly
2g clutch master + slave cylinder
5 speed...
BoredDSM - very well thought out. again, thanks for all the input. i think now, i will be looking for a magnus (despite the cost!)kevingst - gorgeous lookin' engine ya got there! let me know how the BC 280's work out for you. i was looking at those as well.cant wait to get my block...
ok, i apologize guys... was really tired last night.heres all the useful info:
2.3 stroker setup with 9.0:1 c/r
FP3052/1050'cc/DSMlink
balls to the walls on 93 oct
target redline: 7500the 3052 spools up like a 16g... with the new stroker motor, should be even faster! i only tested...
okay first of all, i searched ALL over the stroker section, and found nothing.i am no DSM noob. i did my math, built my setup on paper first, then bought my parts. my idea was 500 awhp or ballpark, and daily driven. dont wanna rev too high, and want quick spool out of my cute little tiny...