Let's see if this works. Only a 1hr print

That does, thank you. You don't happen to have a drawing for a flange for the TB elbow do you?

Stop stalking me you creeper.

Anyone have a drawing for making flanges for TB's? Bolt hole diameters and layout (distance from central axis of the TB?)?Thanks!

Holy grave robbing!

Seriously? You're moving this much air, and you want to restrict the main BOV passage? Just reflange it to a TiAl and be done.And if someone wants to make 500hp, you shouldn't be trying to ghetto rig a 1g BOV to do the job...

magnus has made a dsm specific bolt on regulator as well.http://magnusmotorsports.com/products/fuel-products-services/magnus-fuel-pressure-regulator/#.UruSVbTwvEk

If you want to rev to 10k, build a high compression long rod 2.0l. Much better rod angles for high revs.

I ran a 1g head on my 2.3. Don't think it had any work done. If you have some spare scratch, I would send it off for some MINOR bowl work around the valve guides just to give you a little more breath up top.

A/F is a FACTOR of volumetric efficiency and RPM. So the ECU can calculate it based on set factors.

That's what I am telling you. Once your VE is set up (vs load and rpm), you don't need to set up anything else. Crank up the boost (assuming you have the fuel to compensate), and let er rip.Even if you blow a coupler, the car will still get home.

It's far better to START in SD with the new engine. As long as major components stay the same, your VE will not change, and your maps will self adjust based on boost (since SD graphs are 3D VE x RPM x Load tables).The GM MAF was never meant to be subject to anything over an atmospheric...

Don't forget to take lag into account. The larger the compressor, the more mass it will have, and the slower it will accelerate.I also agree that it would be best for you to switch over to SD as soon as possible.

I thoroughly enjoyed my 3582r HTA in a T3 .82 A/R format on my 2.3. Was an absolutely ORGASMIC turbo.

I think it was because too many people were just buying them from Comp, so they stopped selling them. Call up Amber and ask what the comp part # is for the FP3 profile.Just remember, you'll have to upgrade your valvetrain to a higher spring pressure to be able to not float valves, due to the...

Depends on the turbo :ohdamn:As for your cam choices, you can get away with far longer duration than that. A 264/272 combo is going to be restrictive on an engine with that much VE.Get a set of the Comp Cams that were the FP3's. That should make a nice breathing beastly motor.

Get a good set of long duration cams to help that engine breathe as well. I would second the DSM76r HTA option for it. Would be a VERY nice street turbo.

Because I doubt it does? The 2g 7-bolt wasn't used in many cars, unlike the 6-bolt.

If you're going along these routes, why not fab some tubing up, elongate the arm where the freeze plug is, and weld the OEM port shutI don't know of any of the big names running anything but one off fabbed up waterpumps.

It is just incredibly sad that there is no such thing as patent infringement and litigation anymore against these chinese companies. Ethics are meaningless to them it seems.

Um, you do realize that the OUTLET for the OEM waterpumps is through the block, right?Also, this.

As long as the surface area that the oil sees to lift the valve is not changed, you didn't go over.

Not to be a necromancer, but this thread was recommended before I made another, so here are my pictures.Sorry, why would seeing the top of the piston through the relief port render the unit inoperable?

That's called compressor surge, and it can kill your turbo's bearings.

I just talked to Robert. He said they increased the surface area of the thrust plates of the big28, which would increase the load they can take, which SHOULD result in longer turbo life, provided the turbo isn't starved of oil.

Not necessarily. The FP Big28 more than likely rectified this issue. Robert knows his stuff.

T28's have a good track record on 2.0L's

It may have lasted you a long time, but the turbo is WAY too small to be mated to a 2.0L engine.Any turbo can last a long time, as long as it's manufactured, balanced, installed correctly, oil changed regularly, and not overspun.

And cover your windshield in soot + collect rainwater.

It's not really useless information. Granted it has no evidence to back it, but I've never stated untruths on this forum.

ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFLTypical response. OBVIOUSLY I don't have them as I always ran without a cat after I found the benefits.:rolleyes:

I beg to differ.

Actually, you don't even know. It's not negligible at all. When I removed my "high flow" cat when I was on a 16g, 5th gear was completely different.

cats affect resonance a lot. You would be VERY surprised how much top end flow you gain by removing it.

Unfortunately, physics is going to hinder you. 9/10 times, quiet exhaust means one that flows less. Look at rifle suppressors. The reason why they work is because they capture and trap the hot expanding gases, allow them to cool, and slowly release them. On a turbo car, that means backpressure...

Turbo cars don't use "headers"If you want one of the best MANIFOLDS out there, get an FP Race manifold

I still wanna build a 2.4L longrod ethanol SL-R (or just buy an atom).

:applause:So proud

Then it's not really "old school" then, is it?

Old school Reds were 60-1 comp wheels :shhh:

Not to stroke my own ego (ok, it is) but more people need to + rep this post. Afterall, how many people can correlate Dr Evil and DSM's with such hilarity?If I remember correctly (moreso to the topic at hand), the 2g OEM hard return line is 10mm (.394"), larger in dia than -6an (.375").

We do? Do you know the tolerance stack ups from the CHRA to shaft to the wheel? There is no such damned thing as "perfect".

No such thing

:|I am stunned that you are backing me up on this manifold.This manifold is just about AS BIG as you can fit in a 2g. It's a bi*** and a half to get this thing on and off, because it utilizes all the space available.

ROFLTapered runners. How do they work? Magnus still hasn't been able to grasp this concept. They still think the plenum's job is to try to increase velocity. Laughable. The plenum is practically constant pressure if it's large enough in volume. The runners are what increase velocity. What...

Just to clear up a bunch of confusion about this SMIM... Here's all the testing you need.Turbo4

Let us know how long your engine / turbo lasts running that chinese mfg'd POS.

Journal bearing and PTE should be enough to make you run far far away.

Cracked crank

She's dead :(