Is 2.25” a confirmed measurement you took? If so that is perfect as that’s the tubing I have to use for my hotside.-thanks!

That seems way to large... when a 2.5" to t3 flange looks like so...?

Looking for the turbine housing inlet diameter on a typical 16g. Basically the circular diameter of this flange… Is it 2” 2.5”? Seller won’t take questions on their product. Working on a twin setup and I’d like a 2” transition to T3 flange...

Just to follow up on this, the solder never leaked or caused any issues. I've also done several other drains using soldered 3/4 copper piping with zero failures to date.

Don't believe it is related. The Goo/gum on the injector tips in it's pure form is color less. YOu wouldn't be able to see it. The black tar color see in it after it's formed on the intake/injector is just combustion particles that have stuck to it. (again... or so says the article)

What is clogging your filters is not the same as the sticky gum substance on the injector tips. The two are unrelated. The sticky substance on the injectors is soluble in the E85/gas mix it passes right through filters. (at least that's what the article states)

I know this thread is old and dead but I figure this may help some.http://codsm.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3965Informative thread where a chemist tests the E85 “Goo” and explains what he thinks it is.In a nut shell it’s in the fuel, not the lines tanks etc like so many believe. It’s...

The service manual says 19mm. If you add extra bends etc and use 15mm fittings it isn't going to drain properly. Just because some people get away with it... does not make it correct. I ran 3/4 ID copper plumbing fittings. Works great.That said... smoke on first start-up that clears is...

((CM x 8) - 7) / 100 = a/r ratiosome conversions below.6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R 7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R 8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R 9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R 10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R 11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R 12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R 14 cm2 = 1.05 A/R 16 cm2 = 1.21 A/R 18 cm2 = 1.37 A/R 21 cm2 = 1.61 A/R

I don't balance the rim or the tires anymore. Always spun balanced mine in the past.Had a used set of slicks a couple years ago that just wouldn't balance. Broke the tire loose and rotated it etc... I was getting ready to junk them and figured I'd try the "walmart balance bead trick" I...

IMO, Not a big fan of water. I'd only do 100% meth. (not that water hasen't been proven to work as well). Could always run the water through copper lines wrapped around the exh. manifold to preheat it before injection as well.In my case, The direct port stuff wouldn't atomize as well in a...

Would be a good idea to run direct injection right on the intake runners to avoid sensor damage.

Like I said it's a poly tank and I'm talking about the rubber gasket on the cap. No alum involved..

Anyone else having issues with the rubber around the fuel cap swelling? Using a new POLY RCI 12 gallon cell. Red plastic cap with a rubber grommet/gasket type seal around the cap. When new the cap fit great. Now I literally have to use a screw driver to pry the cap out of the cell. And then use...

The Lucas is basically paint thinner in a jar with green dye. Buy yourself a gallon of paint thinner and run that. It's all petroleum distillates.I narrowed it down to crappy gas stations awhile back as well. I have a straight gas tune and run a tank of 91 every month or so. Seems to take...

I think you're cars awesome, but you don't need anywhere near 600hp to do 100 in the 1/8th. 2700 lb car should be able to do it with 400whp. 3200lbs at around 470whp.

You could always pull a lucas english and run a vacuum pump on your brake booster then extend the brake pedal for more leverage? He was launching at some nutty boost levels that way.

I'm in for results... :hellyeah:Just out of curiousity, what are we looking at cost wise for a switch blade turbo and controller combo?

sorry I misunderstood, thats the piece I used on the pan side. Used a 3/4 aftermarket threaded flange for the turbo side.Solder melts at a higher temp than your oil should ever be. It's held up fine on many of my setups. Melts at 360-370* for the soft stuff. "hard solder" used for brazing...

You can drill it out and tap and solder 3/4 copper fittings on the flange. I did it works great.

Appreciate the help. I had it correct the first time. Just had a pin swapped on the weather pack. it all works now.:hellyeah:

The power source is a switched relay. Comes on with the IGN.The switch isn't exactly as I have it drawn. It has an off position where it provides no ground.Then it has the ability to have only "lo" or only "hi". Or I can set it up with low in the first position and both "Hi" and "Low" in...

So with my lights setup like this diagram. Low beam works great and is bright. When I switch to high beam All the lights come on but they are dim. The way I have it wired the high (top lights) should come on brightly and the bottom shouldn't come on at all. Some how I'm back feeding to all 4...

Sounds like you need a heavier spring, with more rated travel? We need some video of this thing! It's gotta make some nice noises!

You can't say "2.5 pipe" has a set resistance value.Depending on the length of the pipe and the amount of bends, restriction will go up. So the closer you vent the pressure to the turbo, the lower the over all resistance will be. In the case of a 16g internal gate you'll be dumping exhaust...

Man I wouldn't do it! I wish you lived closer I'd trade transmissions with ya. Manuals blow! Autos are where it's at for a turbo car. If you throw a drag radial on the car your traction problems will be over at those power levels.Good luck with it...

If your AFR’s aren’t changing drastically and tires hook well it must be magic then. :aha:I disagree with what’s said above about a “night and day difference with cold weather”. That little drop in ambient temp. isn’t going to cause a drastic change. There is roughly a 1% increase in HP...

Do you have a WB02 on the car? Whats your AFR at?Also cold weather has a huge effect on traction. If you have a hard compound tire to start with, coupled with a cold pavement surface, The car isn't going to hook for shyt. Kinda the purpose of a "burnout"60* and below (ambient) my car...

Looks great, I went the same route and picked up an HKS cast unit that has never been bolted on for $120 and a used BEP housing for the hx40 for 100$ :D Hoping I can squeeze the stock fans back in there.

I understand your point, but it is functional. Many times packaging requirements rule out over functionality. That being said I can regulate boost down to 8-9psi or run 30+. What else does it need to do? :confused:

Going by weight and trap speed i'm right around 500whp. What I don't get is the 9cm HY35 guys are making more power than me at the same boost. You think the 9cm housings are larger than Tims housings? What about the bolt-on BEP housing compared to a 9cm?I have a BEP housing and HKS cast...

Whats daves car weigh these days?

5 months shy of 3 years now and my manifold is still holding up. The car is daily driven. Put about 20k on it now.Not sure if it's my sweet bubble gum welding "skillz" or what. :hmm:I'm changing manifolds and housings soon so if anyone wants this thing cheap let me know. :thumb:

Congrats, do you know what your race weight is?With a good 60' your at 10 second trap speeds now. :thumb:32psi on my 6 blade hx40 only netted me 124 trap. But I'm full weight all option and run the Tims turbos ".63" housing. I think the housing is killing me...

With 91 pump and meth injection and 272 cams i trapped 119 with my 16g. Full weight all option 1g. And my tubby 220lb arse in it. :DSlap some meth injection on there, drop timing, and crank the boost up! The E316G really wakes up at 25+.Would spike to 35ish and then settle to 27ish by...

I'd suggest leaving the timing where it's at and turning up boost. After you reach your desired max boost you can fine tune timing and watch the plugs. True, youre on the conservative side of the timing curve for 25psi, but I think your right around where you want to be for the 30-35+ range. :thumb:

Timings on the conservative side for 25psi, def a few ponies to be had there. I'd leave everything the way it is and slowly bump the boost a few psi at a time watching knock and plugs. Should be good to 30+ with those settings IMO. I'm sure you'll be in the 2:1 and maybe a bit more on the exh...

Need more info, timing fuel AFR, fuel type, Which Hx35 compressor? etc...Thats not bad for only 25psi. Most guys pushing an hx35 are in the mid 30psi range. Turn it up, the 12cm housing isn't holding you back at those levels. Also your car will spool and make power more quickly on the street...

No, its an open manifold...

I supposeit's not a direct comparison, but I recently picked up a BEP hx40 housing and HKS cast manifold for an insanely cheap price. I currently have the .63 "tims" housing and I must say somethign in my combo is not right. I'm thinking it is the housing.It doesn't spool any faster than...

What brand was it? I couldn't find any 60mm in and out on ebay other than the huge godspeed units. (took them 3 tries to get me a working valve too)I hear you on the higher opening point. If you plan on running 30-40lbs like you do it makes sense. I'm running big cubes and a big turbo so I...

And I thought I was the only one... I like your setup better. I had space issues on mine. Your gate looks smaller than mine. Are the inlet and outlet 60mm on that gate?4" to a 2.5 muffler. 60mm cutout.Actuating with shop air. Also cut several links out of the spring and heated it...

My firends diesel VGT controller was an adjustable stop and a spring. Set the stop so the blades couldn't close to far, then used a spring to hold it against the stop. As exhaust pressure built it would open the VGT. Little bit of experimenting with spring pressures and it was a done deal...

Appreciate the offer, but this seems to work well for now, I don't want to get into it again. :thumb:

FWIW I tried the controlled vac leak option before messing with the throttle. In the end I had a huge solenoid with a 1/4" hole plugged into one of the large ports on teh intake. Ended up needing that large of a "hole" to get the idle high enough. It made my idle fluctuate though. Coming down...

Cruise control circuit is semi complicated. I will take a lot of effort to use it. The linkage I use doesn’t have anything connected to the throttle linkage and only has an on/off position. I’m not familiar with the control mechanism the cruise control unit uses. Most require some sort of ECU to...

Yes, heaven forbid you read something. :rolleyes:Your probably blowing the gate open because of the retarded amounts of back pressure on a bolt on housing at 30ish psi. Get a stronger WG spring.

I don't think you have anything to base that off of other than hearsay BS. :nono: The FP HTA designs aren't like the exotic CNC batmowheel type designs. The batmowheel design did show some minor improvements in specific areas, but for most of us these improvements don't justify the added cost of...

Garrett has done back to back testing of billet VS cast and there was NO benefit performance or "spool time" running a billet compressor. Assuming the billet wheel is an exact clone of the cast. Since the billet stuff is CNC milled they can be a bit trickier with blade design ( like batmowheel)...

Contacts are fine. As I said it works fine when the wireig is hooked up but the hangar assy isn't installed. When the wires are "open" the gauge goes to E. I think if its grounded its full. (not 100% sure of that though)