correct me if I've misunderstood. I was told you can not use a automatic or manual transmission from a 1g car (eclipse, GVR4) with a 1g 6 bolt 4G64 block? Something about the 4G64 block being too wide ? can I get some clarification??
They did, thanks for sharing that.. So You did use a 2.4 block, if you are switching the motor the other way around, and using a different transmission?? So you are rear wheel drive car only?? It would seem Kiggly should have made the plates a precise fit where the end user didn't have do all...
Thanks for the info.. I pulled a crank yesterday out of a 1991 mitsu mighty max.. It's a 6 bolt 4G64. Looks pretty good. Does anyone have any experience or suggest knife edging the crank?? I know this would lighten the crank. I'm not sure if that's a good thing? Being you're trying to gain...
Thank you. So the 1990 mighty max "should be" the correct 100mm crank? and you say grab the oil filter unit as well. What about the oil pan and the pick up tube?? I've read in a few post there were some issues with clearance with the 4G63 Pick up when going to the 100mm crank.. Thanks again...
That is what I meant, a 2.3 stroker.. A 2.4 100mm crank out of a 4G64 block installed in my 6 bolt GVR4 Motor.. I have the factory 1g 6 bolt motor in my galant.
Thank you for sharing this information.. So you are saying my best bet is the 1990 mighty max? I'm simply looking for a good 2.4 ltr crankshaft so I can convert my 4G63 into a 2.3 ltr. Someone here stated look for a 1994 galant, but I would think that is a 7 bolt crank, and would not be...
I'm looking to do 2.3 stroker in my Galant VR4.I have access to 1992 mitsu mighty max with a 2.4 litr., a 1996 mitsu mighty max 2.4 litr.,
or a 1990 mitsu mighty max with a 2.4 litr.I figure the 1990 and 1992 are six bolt motors.
Is the 1996 might max a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt is the question...
I would order the pilot bushing from the dealer ship. I discovered most parts stores do not carry these OEM parts, or even aftermarket. Besides it cost about the same price.
The flex plate. You need to order the 6 bolts from the dealer or grind the ones down that came out of your 5 speed. I...
Use a TCU, The point of an auto trans is to let it shift automatically, The shift box is a good idea if you are gonna drag race, but not for a daily driver.
Hi guys, I need the gurus. I'm sure I'm overlooking something or I have a a bad TCU.l completed the swap. 92 galant vr4 manual to auto swap.placed the front clutch and rear clutch packs and installed IPT shift kit per instructions. That transmission was stuck in 3 rd gear and had no...
Is there a shim under the hinge? Unless the car has been wrecked or the previous owner did something to bend the metal? seems like it should be an easy fix, but I would get a friend to help hold the hatch in place while you do adjustments.
I had an in car valve many ages ago, and I found that I had more boost creep and spiking. I really think it's better to keep it closer to the turbo wastegate actuator. However, you do what works for you.
replace the rubber lines and add a manual boost bleed valve. An after market boost gauge is a good idea too, so you know how much psi you're pushing into the beast.
put a good boost gauge in the car, and a decent manual boost bleed valve. With stock injectors, fuel pump, ect. you need to stay around stock boost levels, or face detonation and burnt pistons.
Thanks for your input. I have not had any other to compare against. But I will look into the ones you recommend as well. My ddm's have been fine for the last 2 years.
Replace the rubber inserts with solid one. Check you shifter inside car and make the rubber and plastic grommets are not worn out. Replace them with new parts. Dealership should still be able to get them. Good aftermarket trans fluid helps too. I used synchroshift in my 95 gsx.. Good luck.
DDM tuning is who I purchased mine from. They are in china/ japan, don't remember which county, but I'm sure there are US sellers. They came highly recommended to me.
it doesn't sound good. Usually, the AC compressor will cycle when it's low on freon. Which means you have a leak somewhere. Have you tried adding a can or two of freon, and see if the compressor stays on. If you have to crack the AC system, you will need a vacuum pump to vacuum the system...
That is weird. I just installed an auto trans in my car. I did the kiggley flex plate, made sure the TC was seated all the way into the trans pump. when I bolted the trans to the motor I had about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch from the flex plate to TC pads. I was able to spin the TC and the flex plate...
An ECM link might be in the future at some point, but for just street driving, and weekend warriors, the ECU chips work great. You're not spending a lot out of pocket to pick up some good HP. If you tell him what turbo you're running, intercooler, cams, etc , He will build fuel and timing maps...
I would start with a new thermostat, and you need to make sure your radiator fan is coming on. Not the front fan A/C fan, but the one on the engine side. Make sure the coolant temp sensor on the radiator is plugged in. You can also unplug it, or if you find that it's not plugged in, you can...
wouldn't it be easier to put one in the tank, and then have an external one. How much power are you planning on making, that a single pump in the tank would not support? I'm not even sure if you could get two pumps on a single hanger to go through the hole in the top of the tank, then you have...
the lines should run along the side of the under body frame rail. The square rail that's under your passenger and driver seat. One side may be fuel lines, the other side should be brake lines. Then they will go up toward the gas tank, then switch over to a rubber line to your calipers.
stock boost level I think was around 14 psi. but then again it might be around 12.5. Been a while since I had my 95 gsx... I suggest spending a few dollars on a decent boost gauge, this way you know how much boost you're really pushing. You can get a air compressor with a regulator and set...
You pretty much have to remove the timing belt to do it the right way. I think you will find in the long run, it will take less time and frustration to take the timing belt off..
Not a bad price from an AWD car. I would chose the 2g over 1g just styling preffs. Mileage is not too bad.. Just give it a once over real good, check all the fluids, and make sure the boost is holding at 14psi if its a stocker.
I ordered the spacers. The manuals show you use before and after the flex plate. I called Kiggley, and he said you don't have to really use them, unless you're planning on making big horse power. I didn't use them.
Make sure the big 22 mm nut is tight (under the end cover). Can remove cover, and tighten while transmission is still in the car. Worst case, you may have a end bearing going bad on the one of the main shafts. You can see this when you remove the end cover, assuming it's the bearing on that end...
The oem gasket is pressed and had a fiber material on the inside from what I remember, So cutting into the round ring to match the exhaust / turbo may cause it to blow out / burn out with short use.. I would look to the aftermarket, and find an all copper one or SS one, then do your porting.