You can confirm obd communication before you go for your i/m emissions test by hooking up a scanner or code reader & see if you have data displayed. I have my 2G locked in comm mode. I think locking in comm mode also prevents the readiness monitors from setting to ready(mine alyways display as...

Are you trying to do this in the car ? if so . . . stop & put the engine & trans together out of the car & drop the assembly in. Not enough room in the engine bay to do it . . .

Definately check your charging system. I know that electrical load (charging system draw) effects the idle characteristics in 2G cars. Also . . . any dtc`s ? I had a P1500 code before which turned out to be a bad connection at the alternator plug-in harness. While that was happening, I also...

P0135 refers to the bank 1 sensor 1 HEATER CIRCUIT. NOT switching or o2 sensor activity. All obdII vehicles with heated o2 sensors have 2 wires of the same color (white,gray,black). These pairs of like-colored wires are the sensor HEATER CIRCUIT & are monitored for current/draw. P0135 is bank 1...

Judging solely by location . . . I`d guess fog lamp - ? Do both fog lights work ? Or the horn ? I can`t remember where the horn is on my 2g. That`s all I can imagine that could be . . .

Good plan . . . get back to us when you sort it out :talon:

P1400 (not P0140) code description is Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit. looks like you have a map sensor or wiring problem associated with it.And P0170 is described as fuel trim malfunction bank 1.

Just had an 02 neon in the shop today. That plug will fit the coil pack . . . the pictures are with the valve cover off - & the coil pack is mounted on the valve cover, & the wire length/arrangement looks right . . . :talon:

I see that the valve cover is off . . . the crank sensor & cam sensor plugs are very similar if not the same. The 1 in the pic looks like the harness is long enough to reach down to the crank sensor. The cam position sensor goes onto the outside of the valve cover on a 420a. That`s probably what...

Crank sensor . . . ? Looks like the crank sensor plug to me - check it out

I`m running a bone stock 2g head & intake mani on a 6 bolt 2.4 stroker in my 98 tsi awd(4g63 block). With the stroker, it`s recommended to keep it under 6500 rpm (yea . . . right - broke that rule several times). Despite the increased stroke, it still WANTS to wind to the stratosphere, but it...

Go to a local Napa - they have them in various sizes/widths for ball joints & tie rod ends. They may even have an assortment kit with several of each type . . .

+1 on the Competition clutch. I`m running a 6 puck & 2900 pound pp in my awd 6 bolt stroker,& I really like it. Very little chatter, not too heavy, & hooks like a madman. I can only assume their products will be just as good in the Hondas . . .

This was all I could find image wise to help you out . . . The first image is the 6 bolt setup The second image is the 7 bolt front view with the crank sensor pulse plateAre you rebuilding the 7 bolt or doing a 6 bolt swap ??Edit . . . I see your image now - look at the last image -...

If you can eliminate all the tires & axles as the cause (this can be difficult to do) I think you may have a problem in the transmission. I`ve seen it when at certain speeds, there is a vibration in the whole car that increases with speed,& it turned out to be that a gearset or bearing in the...

Good plan . . . this way there`s less chance of gouging up that nice paint in there - looking good man !So doin a 6 bolt swap now that it`s out ??

You can start it & let it idle, take off the p/s fluid reservoir cap & put your finger into the fluid & see if you can feel it moving/pumping. If it is circulating, the pump is good & chances are that the valving in the rack has failed . . . If there is no fluid movement, the pump is probably bad.

Nice job man - looks really clean -Must have been some kind of fun seperating the engine from the tranny in there ! Way easier to pull them out together . . . :talon:

Alarm system or bad ignition switch . . . :talon:

Obvoiusly the post-cat monitor sensor is there for a reason. Will the car run ok without it ?? Yes it should. Why was it removed ?? Who knows. Should you re-install a correct sensor there ?? If you want your car to run reliably & without dtc`c (diagnostic trouble codes) Yes. If you plan to...

JNZ Tuning Online- OEM Mitsubishi Parts

I know stuff like this drives you crazy . . . Tear into the car doing un-related work/upgrades, & then this crap happens. Check to see if you have good power & ground at the cas w/key on. If you do, then the cas. pulse signal wire to the ecu is probably broken or shorted somewhere. On the 6...

Believe it or not . . . Spray Easy-off oven cleaner on the gasket & let it work for 15 minutes. It will mostly dissolve the gasket, not harming the surface & should scrape off pretty easily with any type of scraper . . .

Can`t explain the noise . . . But the jumping tach is an indication of an ignition breakdown. Could be the coil pack, or also the transistor. Look closely at the coil pack, maybe when its idling, look for any arcing near the plug wire boots. I used to spray a fine mist of water from a windex...

+1 ^^^^ on that idea - also the cas. is adjustable, maybe the base timing is off. If it`s set too far advanced, the computed timing advance may be less as a result. If it`s set retarded too much, it will feel lazy & may also affect the computed timing . . .

When was the last time you replaced the plugs & wires ? Sounds like an ignition misfire - check your plugs & wires

Do you have link or some other means to log ?? You need to log knock counts to see if timing is being pulled due to knock. If not that, then I have to think that the problem lies in the wiring somewhere . . .

If you followed all the steps exactly (I`m sure you did) then I can`t answer why your timing advance is incorrect/partially functional. There`s always the possibility that the ecu. could be bad, however I doubt it. For laughs, do you have another ecu. to try ? ? ?

You`ll need to log knock counts to confirm/eliminate a knock sensor/timing retard issue. Which ecu. pin # did you wire the knock sensor to ??Should be pin # 78 (95-96)

BlcknspoOln is correct. In fact, all the belts/accessories from your original 2g 7 bolt configuration can be re-installed on a 6 bolt swap with no issues . . .

The defrost mode DOES command the a/c compressor to run. If the fuse pops even with the a/c & all other climate controls "off" then there is a short to ground after the fuse but before the ac/climate control system. Look closely at the fuse box & make sure no wires in/under it are chaffed/cut or...

All I can add bud is that on 95-96 2g cars, the timing adjustment connector wire is black & green & goes to pin # 52 on the ecu ... I can use dsmlink to do this automatically on my 98, however the 97-99 cars had no factory adjustable timing provision - The 95 eprom ecu you are running should be...

No you don`t need to remove any of the timing covers, etc. to replace the balancer, just the 3 belts. You will probably need an air or electric impact gun to break the crank bolt loose though. also, now is a good time to replace the 3 belts now that they`re off . . .

I would check the wiring in your distributer-to-coil pack conversion. I know in 2g cars there is a wire tucked in a loom that when grounded, goes into base timing mode w/no computer controlled advance. I don`t know which wire or what color it would be tho . . . or if the Galant has the same wiring -

Had the same symptom just before the 6 bolt swap. When I went to remove the belts, then eventually the balancer, I saw that the rubber isolator/insert in the balancer pulley was 95% ripped through. It`s very common - get some light in there & check it carefully . . .

If you plan to remove the turbo unit with the manifold then you will need to disconnect the 2 coolant line banjo fittings from it as well as the oil feed & drain tubes. You don`t have to drain the coolant or oil, but it will be less messy of a job if you do . . .

I just looked at a spare 2g ecu board that I have (runs perfectly) & it looks just like the image of yours. Your ground trace is probably good. I would definately look for another solution to your problem . . .

Usually the 2g cars won`t run at all with a failed cam position sensor - Why do you suspect the cam sensor, did it trip a code ? I would definately solve that issue first, but I think you do have another problem concerning the boosting (fuel starvation, clogged fuel filter, or boost leak possibly)

This is an image from an article on the sensor trace issue where the board was repaired this is how I fixed mine - looks like the 1 in your pic is missing or blown . . .

The egr. system reduces knock by quenching the combustion chambers with a small amount of inert exhaust gas, this is why you have more knock than usual . . .http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/376683-egr-valve.html#post152270073

The main pourpose of the egr.system is to reduce oxides of nitrogen emissons (nox) during accelleration. This is done by allowing a small amount of exhaust gas to be re-circulated into the intake only during accelleration (egr = exhaust gas recirculation). A second benefit of the egr system is...

Lower ball joint. It is possible to isolate the moving parts of the suspension by removing the wheel, & disconnecting the tie rod from the spindle, noting if the noise is present with or without the tie rod connected while moving the suspension up/down, & side/side. Most likely it`s the lower...

I used a cable from a 96 Galant 2.4 n/t w/no cruise . . . I`ll have to look for the part #. It fits & works perfectly . . . :talon:

I forgot to mention to keep the reservoir cup at least half full during the process so you don`t get the system airbound. Post back afterwards & let us know how you made out . . . :talon:

Sometimes it`s the most simple solution, & we over think the situation & don`t see it. It is a very simple operation, & you can do it yourself in 10 minutes. First, make sure all the connections are tight & clean (in case something leaks you can identify it easily). Second, fill the reservoir...

Sounds like a possible tie rod end or ball joint. Sometimes it can be difficult to isolate the noisy part. Have a helper steer the wheels, & try to determine which side of the car it`s coming from. Once you know what side you`re dealing with, jack it up & remove the wheel. Then, remove the outer...

The only thing I can think to tell you is to pop the sensor out,& with the key on, spin it with a drill & see if the speedo reads speed/speed changes with changes of drill speed ? ? ? And possibly after that test it will return to reading 0 again . . . :talon:

I have v3 . . . trust me, it`s worth the $$$ :thumb:

Yea, Dan is a good guy, he got my replacement stuff out very quickly & with no problems. Good luck with it & take it easy on it for the first couple hundred miles . . . :talon:

I have also experienced a Competetion clutch failure early in it`s life . . . I did my 6 bolt swap complete with an ACT lightened flywheel balanced with the build, & within a mere 600 miles, it started chattering badly & eventually would not dis-engage at all. So, after removing the freshly...