Good to know. Thanks for the heads up

Which sensors in particular?

No, this is not a 420A to 4363 swap thread.As a TSi owner, a friend of mine has asked if I want to do an engine swap on his girlfriends car. The car is a 1996 Talon ES, A/T with a blown motor. He has bought a complete engine from a local seller from a 1999(or 1997 he doesn't know) Eclipse...

I have a FMIC, and in the city I was around 220, but the highway it would find its way up to 230. Long story short, I got sick of it and just bought a fluidyne rad. Using the stock fan the temp has never gone above 200*. Thats using a 170* thermostat. Its a good piece of mind, and it looks...

Its underneath your coil pack. Bolted to a gold plate. Its bolted to your intake manifold actually.Hope that helps

Pull off all the wires, and start from scratch. Making sure you solder all connections, then either heat shrink, or plenty of electricial tape.http://www.vfaq.com/mods/gvr4_afc_instructions.htmlORhttp://www.apexi-usa.com/pdfInstallation/4.pdf

Quoted 790$ canadian at the dealership, that is cost too! When installing it, make sure you put the dot in the same spot it was in.Good luck

Cam angle sensor. I can almost guarantee it.Had the same thing happen to a friends car.

Thats definitly lifter tick. Make sure your oil level is full. If its still there, turn up the music. Or get some 3G lifters.

What throttle % does the pocketlogger say? Should say 10.8% or something. If it does, then the SAFC is probably wired to a constant 5V source, if the logger says 100%. Your TPS needs to be replaced

You need to have the e-brake cable either grounded, or hooked up to the e-brake wire itsself. If not, then the turbo timer thinks that your e-brake is not applied, thus turns off the car as a safety feature.

Im willing to bet on your ignition system. Either you fowled a spark plug, or your wires shit the bed. Go out and get some new spark plugs, gap them to .028'', take it for a test drive. If the problem is still there, go grab some spark plug wires. If it's STILL there, come back for the next...

I put the thermostat in before I got a chance to read this, the 160 only delays the engine from heating up really fast. The engine still runs at about 215 while idleing, and about 210 while cruising. Im making myself one of your signature scoops tomorrow to get the temps in the low 200's.

Is a 160 thermostat too low? I was looking tonight, it was either 160 or 180.

Toybreaker: Your awlays here to help me! It appears that the clutch up switch is being pressed in all the way, IE the newly welded pedal of mine goes all the way up and hits the switch. Is there a way to test the operation of it? If it means anything my cruise control doesnt work either, even...

Steve did my chip. He contacted me today and is checking to see if he accidently put the rev limit to 5000RPM instead of the studderbox.

Another update: I put in the stock chip.. and it rev's right up to 7000. So now im currious as to why the studderbox is always on. I know the clutch switch is working, becuase the car won't start without the pedal pressed. How can I ensure the vehicle speed sensor is working properly.

Update: Checked base timing today, it's between 5 and 6 degree's BTDC. Also, valve timing is good, at TDC the ticks on the cam gears all line up. I also know the clutch switch is working becuase I cannot start the car without the pedal depressedAny other suggestions?

... But you need your o2 sensor for closed loop.

Clutch switch is plugged in, and pedal assembly was just welded. Note: did a boost leak test tonight, holds solid till 20 psi. Went to check base timing, but I couldn't see the tic on the crank pully, im going to need to highlight it and check again.

However, it did this last year, when I had no studderbox. Ill put in the stock EPROM chip to see if that is the problem.

I know there are countless topics about not reving past 5000RPM, but mine may be a special case.Last year, on the last day driving my car a buddy bet me I couldnt spin all four tires(in the rain) I took him up on the bet and launched from 5K. I spun them though 1st gear, but the next shift...

The title of the topic is a little misleading, wiring the gauge is easy as pie. However, im trying to find a way to run the wiring to the sensor from inside the car. AEM says to mount the sensor at least 36'' from the exhaust ports, which basicly leaves me mounting it at the end of the downpipe...

The car is driving fine, no lurching or anything. And after I drive for a while, I feel the transmission, and it is still cool. If the VC was spinning inside, it would be hot as hell.

Last summer my car would fall on its face and bog down at 5K. It was just wayyy too rich. I leaned it out on the dyno, fixed that problem. Plugs or wires is usually the problem for these symtoms, becuase it takes much more energy to ignite the extra air and fuel put into the cylinder when under...

On a simliar note, For those of you with MMcd I had an issue. I went to start the car for the 1st time all winter, and the logger is going NUTS! Rev's going into the 1000's, knock counts in the 700's, even when the car was off. I tried putting it into a friends DSM, same thing. I found a new...

If the turbo timer is on when you turn the car on, Does it say P-1 or something else? If it doesn't say P-1, hold power and press the time button untill P-1 rolls on by. That should keep it running. I had mine stop working, I called greddy and they told me how to swicth modes.

That would make more sence. Unless the thrust bearings in a DSM are brass. Ive never taken them out, so I dont know. Its a logical answer though.

A spun main would cause alot more of a mess than what your seeing. The pictures it almost looks like right parts from the casting. As for the larger pieces, they could have come from anywhere. Unless there is a serious gouge in the bearings, then thats not the problem. Was there anything...

Did you set the speedo and tach at 0? Speedo, tach, and oilpressure all have a set lower limit that they fall down to. Place the needles on the lower limit. As for your gas and temp gauge, drive to the gas station, fill up with gas. Place the fuel at the full mark. And place the temp in the...

Did the tech call you on the side of the road and ask you if you wanted the car towed back to their shop?Im thinking no, so tell them that you will not pay for the towing charge or the tech time. Bring a spare key and a u-haul trailer with you, and take your car home. The spare key is...

When I opened up the transfer case, I counted both gears. I can't remember the numbers exactly, but after looking at the vfaq site, I can now recall that it was 24/22. IE. The ratio from my transfer case, is the same as what comes on the Galant, which is what I have in the car now. Same goes...

I know it wasn't all for me, but thanks for taking the time to mess around with the car. Ive already done a few of those tests just by working on my car this winter. The day I got it running I was quite happy so I decided to take it around the block. I drove it about 1km in total, it definitly...

I used the transfer case from my Talon, becuase the "galant" tranny, and my transfer case were both 22 spline.As for it not bolting up, I was quote "told" that it was from a 1990 Galant, therefore it had the 22 spline transfer case. As for it bolting up, everything lines up good. The...

Use the gm syncromesh + heavy duty shock proof for the tranny. Straight heavy duty shock proof for the rear diff and transfer case!

Long story short I bought and installed what I was told was a "Galant" transmission. Now, after running the car while up on jackstands, ive realized the final drive ratio's are different.1) I need to know if I can take the ring and pinion from the corresponding Galant rear diff, and swap...

I bought it for the same reason as you, why not? I however have only been able to have my car idle, no driving for me. However it holds boost past 25psi during a boost leask test!

You were right! I had 2 relays wired in for my alarm's power door locks. The wires were not attached properly, so I used female spade connectors. That fixed the problem. Thanks!

Thats the same manual I have! Thanks alot for posting it though. So essentially im just going to remove the self locking nut with the brake caliper still on(brakes applied), so I dont have to find that "special tool" get a slide hammer, pull the entire assembly out, put the new one back in...

I left the originaly transfer case on the car, and I read that the wheels may have been going slower due to brake's dragging. Is there a way to tell if the VC or centerdiff is getting a workout?

I bought the entire hub assembly from NAPA today. Will I need a press to get this sucker in, or is it that 27mm nut on the backside of the unit all I need? (left my haynes manual with my car, so I have no idea)

Last year I saw that was rear driverside wheel was wobbeling like crazy. I first tightened up the lug nuts, that solved nothing. I then took it to a tire balancing shop to ask them to look at it. The wheel was balanced AND STRAIGHT!:mad: So... I then thought that the bushing in the trailing...

I had just finished getting the car back together, I had gotten a new transmission from a 1990 Galant, act 2600, and light weight flywheel. I put the car on 4 jackstands, started it and let out the clutch to see when it starts to engage. The pedal height is really low, but I can adjust that. My...

Your gauge is probably sticky/ needs replacing. Also, follow the taboo speed shop vacuum line elimination, that shouldhelp make problem solving easier.

It doesnt really matter where you put it, as long as its 36'' away from the turbo. The air fuel ratio isn't going to change the farther you move the sensor back

Zero out your safc, then start from scratch. The ECU think is already compensated for the larger injectors. Do you have a wideband to tune with?

You may not have the splines lined up right. I know its a bi*** to lay under the car and try and put on the t case. Have someone hold the t case, and you turb the driveshaft and pull towards the t case at the same time. It SHOULD slide in, if not make sure you didnt fubar up the oil seal on the...

Take whats in your overflow and pour it into your t-stat housing.

http://www.dsmchips.com/1990ecu.htmlThat was is the easiest way, so thats what im going to do. just for shits and giggles, anyone have the wiring plug for the 7 pin 1991 transistor? Ive got the 1991 transistor, just no 7 pin plug

Does anyone know if the pocketlogger or SAFC will still have an RPM value?