@99gst_racer by chance did you make extra 6.1mm hubcentric spacers? Or would you be willing to make more?

Well, my wife has a friend from highschool in your town. Just went to his reception up here last night, actually. If you don't mind, I'm going to keep you in mind as I start collecting parts, and hopefully we can work something out for me to bring the stuff to you when you've got free time.

Yeah, I looked up your location - it's about a 3 hr drive from me. Not terrible, to be honest. What's your timeline on those projects? Realistically, I'm a year or two out before I could get serious about installing it, but I could start collecting parts - I have a house renovation to finish...

Thanks for the replies! @1990TSIAWDTALON and @KCDsmDude, do you guys have any local shops you recommend? I'm in eastern KCMO, so it'd be cool to get together sometime.

Getting the itch to start upgrading the Talon again. I'm wanting to swap my stock 2.0 with a 2.3. A quick google revealed a few vendors still sending bottom end kits consisting of crank, rods, pistons, etc., but I'm really just looking for a good shortblock that will support between 500-750 whp...

I saw the list is full. Are you accepting any more orders or are you keeping it to a set number for this batch?

Awesome thread!

I have little to add except for NOT using the 6-bolt head. Nothing wrong with it, and it will flow a good amount, but the newer style heads like the 7-bolt and Kia heads are more efficient. It seems like all of the serious road guys start with a 7-bolt 2g head.

I’d be curious to see what the assist from the EPS looks like at highway speeds (if it’s possible to make another video).Also, will the EPS kit only bolt on to these modified racks, or can we order the EPS alone and use it with an otherwise stock steering vehicle?

Down for a 2g AWD Full set.

Can you take a video of the whine?

What are your plans for your custom condenser? I’ve been wanting to move to a smaller more efficient condenser core to hopefully address my cooling issue.

Wow! Your car is looking great! I haven’t been able to log in to DSMTalk in a long time, so I’ve beeen curious how your build is going.Just out of curiosity, what FMIC do you have? Is it an ETS?

Bought this with a turbo from Justin Whitesell as a backup, but have not used it. This has never been installed. Price is $40 shipped and PayPal’d.

Just picked up some bigger injectors, so I’m letting these go for cheap. I do not have the data sheet, and they have had varying mixtures of e-85 run through them, however, they’ve given me no trouble. I can provide a log of them running for proof.The upper and lower seals are still in good...

Ah yeah, I saw the link after I posted. Thanks for the info.

Did Tim Zimmer give you a safe temp limit from the outlet? I have my sensor there as well, so I’m curious what acceptable outlet temps should be.

I did this swap many years ago, but swapped to the turbo engine. It is possible to swap the harnesses without pulling the dash as mentioned above, however, after struggling upside down and in a contorted position, I found it easier and more time efficient to pull the dash and then swap the...

So for those of us who prefer to VTA (because I’m a ricer inside) would you recommend leaving a SD setup in favor of the GM MAF or is SD still superior to that?

What is the input effort like compared to a powered rack? If it's not much more, I would be so down for one of these.

Ah, sorry about that. I just glanced at the photo you posted in your original post and thought it was an external dump. Do you happen to have any pics of the piece on a car? Thanks for the info!

Do you guys make a recirculated o2 housing for external gate? Something similar to the MAP o2 housing as it's more compact than the JMF housing.

In for an AWD set.

I still don't think you understand how this turbo failed. The "mass" of the compressor wheel doesn't "hang" off of the shaft. And if you were to take this wheel and compar its dimensions to say, a 20g compressor, you'd see that their isn't a huge difference in size. Now, given that these things...

I'm calling bs. It looks like the compressor housing wasn't seated all the way, eventually came off at high boost, and the rest is history. Failures due to high boost result in thrust hardware failure, as mentioned earlier.

If this is an interest list, then yeah absolutely put me in.

I'm very interested, but I agree with the above sentiment: tax return season would make for some killer sales for you.

My first DSM was a 1.8. Great gas mileage, and incredible reliability as you mentioned. The motor just was not designed for power, and any attempt to generate massive amounts of power is futile. Just do your maintenance and enjoy the reliable car you have.

Will you sell the firewall brackets separately? I bought a DSM kit from you earlier this year, and the bracket would be a welcome purchase.

Why don't you try it out? Considering the work it would take to convert to a mechanical fuel pump, if I'm already investing that much time, money, and labor, I might as well put a known working part on it. I think you're missing the point some have made: you're not saving much by trying this...

Almost 3 years too late, bud.

Once this is finished, I'm sure a lot of people will want to hear what this sounds like.

They are stock 2gb rims that came on GS-T and some GS models.

Dangit. I missed that one in my research. I was under the assumption that the backplate would only need to be machined if I was using big 16g wheel... Thank you for the help, guys.

Just finished a rebuild/conversion of a 14b into a s16g using the Turbolab $50 rebuild kit (superback kit.) I noticed that the compressor wheel rubs/binds on the chra/bearing housing. Initially I thought it might have been a difference of dimensions, but I checked the dimensions of the journal...

Left the hating at the door, but it seems like an easy way to diagnose this would be to ohm out (test continuity) of the harness back by the tail lights. I'm willing to bet someone got lazy and just connected wires to wires without really seeing where they were going. Chances are the culprit is...

A boost controller does not just "give you" an extra amount of boost. If the controller is left wide open, you won't create any additional boost over the wastegate pressure.

The easiest and fastest way is to just plug percentages into the wastegate duty cycle and see what boost results. Start low, and then work upwards until you hit the boost pressure you want.Kmetiuk is telling you exactly what you need to know to get this to work.

Regardless of whether or not you are internally or externally gated, you should be able to hit 25psi. I believe your issue is not the wastegate, but that you have a major boost leak somewhere in your system. Or, you have a very large exhaust leak before the turbo.A very large exhaust leak...

You can connect your MAP at your MDP and still run your MAF. Ecmlink allows you to designate your MDP input as various types of MAP sensors.But, yes, connecting at the MDP location means you can leave your MAF connector alone, except you MUST connect your GMAIT through the correct wire in your...

I understand where your confusion is now. To use the MAF to calibrate your SD table, you would need to have your MAP sensor connected to another ECU input.For example, I have a plug and play MAP sensor in place of my MDP sensor on top of the intake manifold. This allows me to log the MAP...

You don't have to do anything with the data. Once you've got your MAF dialed in, you run the SDratio tool and it does it for you. Have you actually tried to follow the instructions in the page you linked? I'm not trying to be a jerk, but if you follow the instructions like they've listed, you'll...

I think the page you linked explains it pretty well. You essentially are taking the calibration your ecu uses for your existing MAF and then it "translates" that into useable data for your SD table. As long as you're following the instructions on that ecmlink page, you'll be fine.And no, you...

Do you have a log of your 360whp run? I'd like to see when you're getting full boost.

Have you done this mod yourself or are you speculating? They're more than a hair bigger - almost a full inch larger in diameter which results in quite a bit more surface area. And I've done this mod, and I'd say it's quite worth it, for the price.

What year Outlander are those rotors from?

I was saying that there is considerable improvement, not that it needed improvement. There's no need to move to a larger MC because we're not changing the volume of fluid inside the caliper needed to actuate the pistons.

I have the outlander rotors on my Awd. Considerable improvement in required braking effort and feel. The only downside was getting the brackets. I hunted for them online instead of buying them from JNZ, but after all of the work to clean them up and prep them for install, I should have just...

I opted for something different from the typical turbo-back or cutout. A lot of credit goes to CoxAbele for the original inspiration for a stock sounding performance exhaust.I had a 3" PR downpipe modified to accommodate the diverter valve and then had a section made to mate the 3" valve down...