Those are not real projectors. If you want to run HID's and not piss off oncoming traffic you need to do a retrofit with actual projectors. All that is, is a normal clear housing with a fake projector looking lens in front of the bulb. I would HIGHLY suggest searching retrofitting HIDs if you...
Like has already been stated before, any of the safc's would work fine for what you want to do. Just remember a datalogger is just as important before you start tuning.
Did they tell you why they think you need an external oil cooler, because from my knowledge its not really a necessary modification until high power numbers made.
Sounds like if you went with scat rods made for a 1g it would be the same situation as using your 6 bolt rods. You would have to get you rods machined to fit 2g/evo pistons.
There are alot of things on that side of the motor it could be. In my own experience I have found that the valve cover gasket (including the half moon gasket) can make quite a mess on that side of the motor, I had one go out and go all over the left side and front of the motor. Can you tell what...
Sounds like you jumped timing unfortunately, hopefully i'm wrong. Maybe if you could get a video of the sound or something that could help us figure it out. Could still be your initial idea of a starter not disengaging completely if it sounds like a grinding though.
Yep thats what ya need. Just hook it up and hold charge it up to 20psi or so and see if it can hold it. Soapy water helps to find your leaks, but most will be pretty obvious(a loud hissing sound usually). It helps if you have two people so one can keep an eye on your boost gauge. You don't want...
Well I just did my first semi-cold test. It has only been sitting for a couple of hours and the outside temp is actually getting up to like 35deg so its not super cold but it started up and held about 650rpm so thats good I guess. I think i'll still bump it up another 50 or so to make the cold...
+1 for draining as much gas as you can and filling it up with new, as well as an oil change for sure especially if you used cheap oil before the car was put away. Also on a side note I would definitely take a look at the timing belt and its tension before you start the car, it'd be pretty...
Yeah it sounds like something drivetrain related. Like alice said, maybe a wheel bearing or something. Does it change at all when it is doing it and you turn? If so then wheel bearing is a pretty good guess.
Sounds like a boost leak. Do a boost leak test before you start spending money on stuff that is probably fine. I was having the same problem, intermittent stuttering at low rpms when I tried to accelerate. I had a nasty boost leak at my throttle body shaft seals and just fixed it this week and...
Ok well the first of the tests last night with the fully warm idle set to 700-750 didn't go so well. It seems that with the idle set that low while the car is warm, sets the cold idle right about at 500, which doesn't keep the car going. Last night it didn't take long for the car to warm up and...
Oh yeah by the way, I hope you plan on replacing the gasket and the plug well seals as well as the half moon gasket with that new valve cover. You can usually get them all in a set with the valve cover gasket at any parts store.
First of all, no you do not have to remove your plugs to pull the valve cover , but its a good time to replace them anyway. Sometimes you do have to pull really hard to get the wires off, but at the same time you have to be careful not to pull the wire out of the boot. Pull on the boot itself...
Haha, that sounds sarcastic. I do hope I have good luck though. Through my research most people said that the bypass plate doesn't do much harm, its the blockoff plate that ruins all chance of having an idle.
Ok, I think I got it. Pulled the gaskets on both sides of the TB and covered em in silicone and no more gigantic leak. Got the BISS set to about 750ish and seems to be rock solid as of right now. This was all done while the car was warmed up though because you have too, to set the idle. So the...
Ok i just adjusted the idle and got it to idle when warmed up and i have a huge leak at the throttle body gasket which is one reason it idled horrible. Fixing that now we'll see what happens.
Ok i'm not happy. I finished all the stuff by siliconeing that seal and put it all back together. I did the FIAV BYPASS (NOT BLOCKOFF) plate which I thought that the car would idle after a quick bump of the idle. It will not idle at all. After running it up and down the street and hardly moving...
You definitely are thinking of the right seal. I removed my water lines too (just stuck a big bolt in em with the hose clamp and good to go, haha i finally decided on that method after one of your posts actually if I remember correctly) so i'm not worried about water leaks but what I am worried...
See yeah i would use some kind of silicone to seal it if it were any flat surface like you just mentioned (except the valve cover... you use that without a gasket in that track???) but it has like a little track and seems like it would not apply the same pressure to make the seal that that...
If you are empty of fluid check the back master cylinder where it mates to the firewall for any wetness, seems to settle there if thats where you leak is. Also check all of you lines. And finally check you slave cylinder, clean it up really nice and then pump the clutch and see if the boot gets...
Ok here are some pics. As you can see both sides of the seal expanded and no longer fit into the track. Even the hole on the one side is noticeably bigger that it should be. Well enough talk the pics say it all.
So i've been having a busy couple of days. I was in the process of rebuilding the throttle body and what not. I have blocked off the egr, blocked off the coolant lines to the tb in preparation to install my FIAV BYPASS plate, and did new shaft seals. The problem is, I started last night and took...
I will probably just get the head machined because it will already be off and I might as well, plus i'm doing the 3g lifters anyway so i'll most likely have it all apart. As for wetsanding, I read somewhere not to sand on the block because of the possibility of getting the bearing killing sand...
I think i'm just going to take my chances with the mitsu composite. I have heard so many different things and the majority say that both surfaces need to be resurfaced. Because I dont plan on dissasembling the bottom end during the rebuild. The motor only has 90,000 miles and ran great in the...
Dang GVR4592 thats not what I want to hear, well kinda. I did want to hear that the composite will handle the power. I was just hoping that I could get the extra insurance and get away with just resurfacing the head. I have done alot research on the composite and it seems like some people say...
By "smoothen" what do mean? You cant sand a block deck because of the risk of getting the sanding particles into the oil passages. Both the head and block will definatly be cleaned with a razor and brake clean. I guess i'm just confused what you mean by "smoothen". The head I'm not really...
Yeah the ARP studs are definatly going on no matter what HG I decide to go with. I really wish I could get some more first hand experience of people that have maybe had just the head resurfaced and what their results were. And thanks for the replies bane3d.
This is the option i'm hoping to hear. Because I want to run the MLS for security but i'm not planning on dissasembling the bottom end to get it decked. I do realize that I would have to check the clearences with of the block to see if it would be usable too. I know the heads need to be finished...
Please dont just tell me to use the search button because I have, and I have found many different things that people say.My question is, do I need to have the block and head resurfaced to run a MLS headgasket or just the head? Some people say both, some people say just the head. I know it...
Thanks for the led stuff, but I'm really not going to do that until I can figure out this water/meth ordeal. I have some people saying you can do it, some people saying you'll run lean, some people saying you'll run rich, and some saying you'll hit fuel cut which seems most likely to me.
Thank you for the first post on any forum with some first hand experience with a set up similar to the one I am considering. I dont plan on overrunning my system at all. I run about 14psi now on stock fuel w/ the free mods, exhaust, and boost controller, w/ real boost gauge of course. I run that...
Okay, i'm a newb when it comes to water/meth so I have a question. I plan on running it on my new project car that will be being built over the winter and I would like to try out a super budget kit on my daily driver before I decide if I like want to do it or not. My question is this: is it at...
I have seen a remote oil filter relocation kit for our cars or at least a universal one that works for our cars. I am having a heck of a time finding the kit again though, so if I could get some help finding one it would be appreciated.
I see that you're kinda pretty set on either a 50 trim or a 60-1 but have you thought about the in betweens. You could consider a 54 or 57 trim too, both very streetalble from what I understand. I have a big16g right now and if I go up this summer i'll probably go 54 I think.
Hey guys i'm going to be ordering some maintenance items this weekend to do an oil change and trans fluid change. I just need to know the size of the crush washers I need to to both oil and trans fluid and how many? Do i need them just for the drain plugs or for the fill plug on the trans too...