Check out Slowboyracing.com. They actually have a turbo called the Bastard 20g, which is a 20g compressor wheel stuffed into a 16g housing. I think it made over 400whp in their dyno testing, I can't remember exactly off the top on my head. I know you're not looking to buy a turbo, but it's in...
Ok, let me see if I can make this somewhat easy to understand, never been great with instructions. You should have gotten two brass fittings and one ferrule with your guage. The larger of the two brass fittings is the one that will screw onto the back of the guage. It will have internal, and...
TwoLiterLaser said it, just kick the crap out of it. I work in a tire shop, and have to deal with that kind of stuff every day. If kicking doesn't work, a decent sized hammer to the back side of the tire will usually do the trick.
v2ner, good advice. I'm looking to build more of a straight line/top end car anyway. With the 60-1, what size injectors would be good? 850s? Or bigger?
Going external wouldn't be a big problem, as I can mount it to my O2 housing, and I can do all the fab work, so the only cost would be the WG itself. I just hope I don't have to take out a fan or anything like that. If you're saying that the spool up between the two isn't insanely different...
Well, since you've personally owned both, give me the highs and lows of both. That's the kind of things I'm looking for. Believe me, I've read and read on both of these turbos. My goals are no less than 400whp. I don't take the car to the track every weekend, I'm mainly looking for a very fast...
I know these are two completely different levels of turbos, but I need to ask this anyway. I can get either one of these for just about the same price, so I'm quite undecided. Although the 60-1 comes with no wastegate, so I would have to buy one of those. I really like the power capabilities of...
I did too at first, then I went back and re-read again and realized he was talking about an external wastegate. But hadn he not been, you would have been 110% correct.
If you were to run an external gate off of the O2 housing, then yes it would work. The wastegate is only going to open at a certain amount of pressure, so until you reached that pressure it would be fully sealed. So no exhaust leaks, because wether you have the divided, or undivided O2 housing...
Ok, I checked the shaft play, and it was non-existent. I was thinking though, could these be symptoms of a blocked oil return line? It seems to make good sense to me, I could be wrong though. Let me know what you guys think.
All turbo lines are stock, no kinks. The breather filter I just put on a few weeks ago when I did my intake pipe, PCV is brand new, not even a week old, and the balance shafts are still there. On another note, the car has been burning oil like nobodys business. I just did the oil change not 1000...
It will have the supporting mods it needs. But I'm not wasting my money going back to a stock turbo. It was going to be replaced in about 5 months anyway.
I know. I had started smelling what I believed to be oil from the exhaust, that's what got me a little scared to begin with. Then when I pulled the IC pipe off I had a pretty good feeling the seals were going. All I can say now is I hope I get my tax return back before it goes all the way like...
Are you looking for the harness that plugs into the factory ignition harness? If so, pretty much all the vendors that sell the Greddy TT will have them.
I'm not trying to steal your post, and this may be benificial for the original poster as well, but would a 60 trim with the right supporting mods reach that power level?
T-2Small. I had a feeling that was going to be the problem. That and I had been noticing the smell of oil burning from the exhaust. I guess I will be replacing it with a 60 trim, although I have none of the supporting mods yet.... :(
I was installing the last new coupler on my FMIC piping tonight(had some cheap temporary couplers on there just to be able to drive), when i pulled the coupler off I noticed it was full of some type of fluid. Well it turned out to be oil, and this is on the pipe directly off the compressor...
Exactly like that. After getting over ebing pissed off about it, I went back out checked, and the needle at rest is at 15 in/hg. So looks like it going back to DSM Parts. I think I'm going to change out for an Autometer. The Megan is terribly hard to see during the day, and I'm not too fond of that.
Well I just installed my Megan boost guage, but upon starting the car, I see that it is reading around 35 in/Hg. So I take it for a little test spin, and realize the guage is reading boost only, and on the vac. side of the guage. As the boost increases, the closer the needle gets to 0. I have...
I have a Tsudo 3" cat back I got off of Ebay. I think it was around $265 shipped. Fitment was great, all the hangers lined up perfect, and it sounded very good. Nice deep rumble, not too loud. I have since modified it, and now it sounds very menacing. Another good thing, the tip is only 3.5"...
Stuff a rag into the compressor inlet, and when you're done, blow any shavings that may have gotten in there out. I actually just did that exact install this past weekend so I could get my FMIC hooked up. Remove the fans, it will give you a little more room to get in there and work. Other than...
Is the arrow on the sprocket itself? If it is I'm really gonna have to go get my eyes checked, because I didn't see it when i was last under there. Looks like it's back to the garage. Thanks for the quick reply.
I saw that as well. Basically it was just to show him exactly where it was supposed to go. I'm not sure how the megan bars are designed, but it may be a case where it won't even work on his car.
Ok, well about a week ago I installed my timing belt and all the other necessaries. All of the timing marks were lined up correctly, I believe. The oil pump sprocket was questionable, I believe the white mark on the sprocket cover to be the timing mark, I could be wrong. Upon reassembly and...
The lower tie bar is going to connect between the rear lower a arms. You simply remove the nut from the back of the a arm pivot point, install the tie bar, and put it back together.
Yes, out of spec toe is very bad for the tires. Too much negative toe, the tires will look like \ / going down the road, too much positive / \. Toe will wear tires quite a bit faster than camber will.
Sounds like what my exhaust does. When I first start it, it's really loud, but after it warms up it get's a little bit quieter. I *think* this is becuase the muffler has less sounds dampening quality when it's cold than once it gets warmed up.
Did the shop give a you a printout of the alignment readings? If so, it should have the factory specs on it. I'm not sure off the top of my head what the factory specs for our cars are, but if you would like I can get them for you when I get to work tomorrow. I would say that you are probably...
I have that same air filter and have had no problems with it at all. Been on there for about 3 months now. I've ran one on my Nissan Xterra for almost 3 years now, as long as its kept clean and oiled, it will keep doing its job. :thumb:
Check out Road Race Engineering's site. They have a pretty good assortment of bends. I'm not sure what angle bend youre looking for, but I'm sure you could find one and cut it to length to make it fit. Hope this helps.
The only difference you will see is spool up time. With the ball bearing chra you will see full boost somewhere around 300-500 rpm's sooner than with a standard journal bearing. There will be no horsepower difference between the two.
Any downpipe made for the FWD 2G(95-99) cars will be a direct bolt on affair for you. Personal preference and the goals of your car should be used to determine wether you get a 2.5", a full 3", cat eliminating, etc, etc. Let us know how far you want to take your car, and that will help with...
Does anybody know what size turbine outlet the Evo VIII has? I need a gasket for the O2 housing but it needs to have a 2.5" opening for the turbine outlet. I was thinking just for ease and availability, if the Evo VIII is large enough just getting one from the dealer. The reason being that I...
The 2G BOV tends to leak at around 9 or 10 psi, this means you're loosing boost pressure, and power. The 1G BOV can handle about 17-20 psi, and can be modified to hold even more. The Greddy Type S BOV is also a good one. I ran one on my last DSM and was very pleased with it, and I am currently...
It isn't normal for them to click that way. It usually means that the solenoid is on the way out. It could also possibly be caused by a bad relay to that solenoid. I'm not sure wether that particular solenoid has a relay to control it or not though. I had the same problem with my EVAP Emissions...
I personally think it is a very good mod to do. If you combine the shift linkage bushings, shift plate bushings, and a short shifter, it's amazing what a difference it is from stock. No more squishy feeling shifts.
I've never installed an N1, but I've installed a Buschur and a Tsudo. It is a pretty easy install. The stock bolts can be somewhat of a pain to get out, as they are usually pretty rusted up, but some good penetrant spray should take care of that. I would say it should be a 1-2 hour job depending...