Bet you it's a mirror image.

That's funny, my 97 GST made the same noise with the same conditions. I never figured it out. I changed the clutch, TOB, and the crank pulley. I think it still does it to this day, I sold it 3 years ago.Maybe check out the starter as Rick suggested.

I guess I'll play too.1989 Mercury Tracer 1.6L auto. Handed down to me while I was in high school, wrecked it 6 months later1988 Mercury Sable 3.0L V6 auto. Bought to replace above car. My first car loan (still in high school). Drove the hell out of that car back an forth from home to...

I've used it on a 6 bolt head. That thing works great.

Use the factory washers.

^^ No sliders in V3 direct access...OT- Nice build man!

TurboByGarrett.com - Turbo Tech103There is a perfect example in here for you. You need more boost after you calibrate your MAF.

I don't remember what line it is off the top of my head... Just trace the lines back. One will go to the IM (this is the one you want), the other will go to the FPR.

You might be pushing your injectors at that point. Get a logger and keep an eye on the IDC's.

That compressor should do fine. You should only need to pressurize you car to about 15-20 psi, so have someone keep an eye on your boost gauge. After you move the boost gauge tap, fix the boost leaks (if any) and replace the BOV, see how the car runs. Don't forget to turn down the boost...

^ Ahh... You didn't mention that. Have you done a BLT to see how bad the BOV is leaking?

Fix your boost gauge first.Go to Welcome to Hallman Boost Controllers, click on files, then on "Pro series installation instructions" If it is hooked up like you say it is, it's correct.Move your boost gauge tap and go for another drive, see if anything changes.

Compressor housing is a boost source...OP- check for boost leaks. Also hook up the wastegate directly up to the nipple on the comp. housing (no boost controller) and see what your boost does.Your boost gauge is in the wrong place. Tee it into the line that goes between the FPR solenoid...

Sometimes they come with these plastic push pins. You drill a hole through the pod and the pillar and just push them in. I wouldn't glue it, you might need to get it off later on. If you don't have the pins, you might just get some screws that won't stand out too much.

Yea, that's not a full pillar replacement. It's meant to go over your existing one.Quote from the auction: THE POD MOUNTS ON THE DRIVER SIDE A-PILLER. THIS POD MOLDED TO PERFECTLY BLEND IN WITH YOUR EXISTING PILLAR PANEL.

Well, downpipe, t-case, then oil pan. Then you can get the rods and mains off one at a time and look at the bearings.

First thing I would do is pull the oil pan and check main/rod bearings...

^^ They only convert 1g non-Eprom's.OP- you need to find a 1995 Eprom ECU. Use your stock MAS. You don't need any of the extra cables. You do need the $30 socketing service unless you find an Eprom ECU that is already socketed.Here is a good place to look for answers to all your...

+1 oem.

A lot of new decks beep until you pull off the faceplate... It's a reminder. If the 12v constant wasn't wired in before, that's why you never heard it.

Where in NM?

You can scale your TPS with link, but having a top of 98% is fine.There is a procedure on Youtube for testing a WB, I'll see if I can find it. EDIT- here it is: YouTube - O2 Sensor Test - How to check to see if your aftermarket O2 sensor is badHave a good trip! I'll keep an eye on this...

Hmmmmm... I just noticed something. After your last pull when you are coasting, the WB still shows ~10-11:1. It should go full lean to like 18:1 until it hits your idle RPM. Your WB may be acting up.What does it show under idle?You also needs to adjust your TPS, it shows 2% when you...

Get a gauge on there and verify base FP. I see you have a 6 bolt, any chance you have a 1g fuel rail with a 1g FPR on there?

Ok, that's what boostest is showing. It's still running a little lean for everything zero'd out. The estimated AFR is showing 10:1 while your running ~11.1:1. You may still have a slight problem with your fuel pressure. Your fuel trims are a little on the positive side.What pump are you...

That looks better. What was your boost pressure on that run?

Yes, you have the right spot. Take the siphon assembly out first.Don't go any larger than 1/8" I only needed 7/64".EDIT- your profile doesn't list a fuel pump. What do you have?

Definitely looks like a fuel delivery problem. The vac line still hooked to the FPR? No cracks in it?Checking your fuel pressure under boost is a good idea.

Got a log?I have V3 and use direct access, my sliders are flat. A pic of mine would be useless to you...

No one makes a top mount for a Mitsu flange... it's not worth it.If you're putting on a 20g, why bother getting a new manifold? Use yours or get an FP manifold if yours is cracked too bad.

Did you use a vacuum pump and remove all the air/moisture before you recharged it?

OK, You need to do a couple of things here.1- Pull out your ECU and remove the 4 screws from the side. Look in the lower right corner (with the main connector on the top) and see if there is a chip there that says something like "2g DSMLink v2.5".2- If you have that chip YOU NEED TO GET...

Unless you have V3, that is most likely your problem...You lost the tune.Do you know what size injectors the car has?Do you have the cable for DSMLink?

If you have the right tools and skinny arms, you can do it all from the top. That's what I did when I put my Prothanes in. Never even lifted the car.

The clutch flywheel assembly is bolted to the crank not the trans. Pull the dead trans off and put the new one on.EDIT: ^^ beat me to it :)

Don't buy it. Go find a used EVO8 or 9 BOV. It is a great stock replacement without having to get a flange adapter or new UICP with a 1g flange on it.

+1I installed a Clutchnet Kevlar with an ACT 2600 pressure plate recently. Looks to be a great combo.

Sounds like your regulator is junk.FYI, my fuel pressure at idle with the hose attached is ~38psi @12" vac.

Once you get bigger injectors and something to tune with, E85 is fun stuff. What's on your list?At least your not stuck with 91, my wife's Mazdaspeed hates the stuff... :cry:

Yea, you might not want to do that unless you want to buy an engine...You need more fuel than the stock injectors can deliver. When you go WOT you will be VERY lean.

Sounds like you need to find someone with a cable for link so you can check things out. I don't know if there are any local DSM clubs where you are, but I'd be looking there first.Congrats on the purchase!

Lucky bastard:p We only get 91 down here, the wife's Mazdaspeed hates it. That's why my Talon only sees E85...:D

^:confused:He's talking about the clutch, not the brakes.OP- master cylinder maybe? See if there is fluid leaking from the rubber boot where it comes into the car under the dash.

Depends on the load on the engine and the fuel your using. Under normal cruising and idle, the ECU should maintain ~14.7. Under WOT (91-93 octane) you want to aim somewhere between 11.0-11.5, depending on how your car likes it without knocking.

He's talking about the engine.Yes they are the same. Only thing you need if taking an engine from a manual to put in an auto is the crankshaft spacer.

Disconnect your lower intercooler pipe from the turbo. See if it's full of oil.

This is about all you can do with a 1g mas: K&N/MAS Filter Modification

You guys do realize he has a 1g, right.... :hmm: There is a big difference between a 1g and a 2g mas setup...OP- you can't use any of the posted items unless you convert to a 2g mas (you need a lot more than the mas for the conversion, though) All you can do with the 1g mas is use a stock...

There's plenty of room. Just make sure you have a load leveler for your hoist, you need to tilt it as you pull it out.

Summit Racing has a few brands. Search for "wire and hose sleeves" in part type. Depends on how much you want to spend. You might be able to get the right color wires for the cost of the wrap.