I think i'll also be taken the breather filter off of the side of my valve cover and replacing with a hose back to the intake like it came from the factory with. The only reason i took the hose off, plugged the hole on the intake, and put a breather filter there was to keep oil out of the intake.

Well i picked up a new pcv valve anyway since it cant hurt (and plus it only cost 5 bucks anyway). I'll be running a boost leak test as soon as possible and i'll make sure the car is taken for a nice ride before i run the test to make sure its warmed up properly.

So all I gotta do is hook up an air compressor to the end of the pcv valve and pump air through it? That seems really simple lol thanks!

I'm picking up a new pcv valve today..they're cheap enough so it's worth it. I'll be trying to run the BLT tomorrow on a warmed up car and for the time being ill be leaving the boost at 13-14 to be on the safe side.So if my pcv is allowing air into my valve cover during a boost leak test...

What cap are you talking about? The oil cap? I replaced the oil cap already...or are you talking about the cap around the oil dipstick? Thanks btw

Anyone about that pcv? Just making sure my boost leak test is being done correcty

Soo cap off the pcv valve or disconnect it before a boost leak test will stop air from entering the valve cover or no? Lol didn't mean to get everyone so heated all ### of my car

Do I have to remove my pcv valve or cap it off or anything before running the boost leak test? I didn't think I had to but now I'm starting to second guess myself. How could air be getting into the valve cover if my compression test numbers are coming back good?

Well I replaced the pcv valve about 4 months ago so idk if a bad pcv is even in question but since they are so cheap I can pick one up tomorrow. Now aside from taking off my intake, disconnecting my MBC and running the hose from my wastegate right to my turbo, there is no other steps I need to...

My pcv is leaking? Could you explain more please? I'm going to be running another boost leak test on Sunday on a warmed up engine and see what I get. I'm still sticking with the problem being a boost leak. The moderators and wisemen and such make a good point and I trust their judgement...

I ran a compression test (again on a cold motor) and came up with 155-160 across all cylinders.

Yea that's why I said I was going to do another boost leak test. I did one immidiately after the problem started happening but did it on a cold engine and had air leaking from my dip stick and valve cover breather at around 15-16 psi but that was the only places it was leaking from so I will be...

Yea nothing was touched except for the downpipe. 16 psi before the downpipe was fine, 16 psi after the downpipe and problems occurred. It definitely felt like I was hitting fuel cut when the problem happened so I'm pretty sure it was fuel cut. I'll still run the boost leak test but after...

Yea I was boosting perfectly fine and hitting 16 psi consistently and it would hold all the way to redline if I let it before the downpipe was installed and after getting the downpipe installed that's when I ran into problems at 16 psi. No sputtering or any symptoms of a boost leak but it's...

^^^ Exactly the kind of answer I was looking for. Very clear, to the point and descriptive! Thank you so much!

That's what I plan on doing next but can I throw the 255 pump on with stock injectors and stock fuel pressure regulator with no bad side effects? Or do I have to wait and install the pump, injectors and FPR at the same time?

Well I got the boost at 13-14 now with no problems now so I'll leave it there. Should I run a compression test once the engine hits normal operating temp or cold? And is it ok to run a 255 rewired with stock injectors and fuel pressure regulator and have no bad side effects or should I wait and...

Oh wow really? That was the results on a cold motor....should the motor be warmed up before I do the test?

That's great info! I tried the BLT while the motor was cold so I'll def be trying it after it's reached it's normal operating temp. I didn't even think about the piston rings because when I did a compression test the numbers came back 55-60 consistently across all cylinders which I didn't...

yea i never even thought of a leak causing the problem like that. I'll def be running another boost leak test as soon as i can. I just always assumed if i had a boost leak i'd get the normal symptoms such as sputtering and bucking and blowing black smoke, no matter how small the leak is. But...

Yea I have a 255 pump and aeromotive AFPR I haven't installed yet because I'm waiting for some 650 injectors first. Well at least the problem is fixed. Thanks guys! I'll keep it around 14 psi until I throw my fuel mods in. I just thought 16 psi was safe to run with my mods this far.Yea I...

Well I turned the boost down to 12 to see ### would happen and the problem went away so u guys were all right! Thanks! But isn't 16 psi safe to be running without me hitting fuel cut?

Ok I ran the car hard again, this time with my friend in the car. He was watching the boost gauge the whole time while I floored it n tried to get it past 5000 rpms but again it did the same thing and he watching the boost gauge hit 16psi n hold there. Could it still be boost creep or fuel cut...

Ok so I'm having a problem with my 98 GS-T. I just recently had my 3" straight pipe downpipe installed. Now i got on the car on the highway and its boosting just fine and hitting and holding 15 psi no problem but once the RPMS hit around 5,000 the car lets out a HUGE backfire and feels like...

hey greenydsm thanks! i'll def look into them. Have you had any experience with them?

Yea i was figuring to run no more than 22 PSI and the place i was talking about does 5 pulls on the dyno and tunes it. I dont really trust myself tuning the car espeically since its my daily driver. What size injectors do you think would be good for that setup?

That sounds great! Pretty much just what i wanted to hear! thanks! I see you're from PA, I'm from NJ which isnt too far so could you recommend a good reputable shop to get my car tuned at? My buddy was using a place called TurboTrix in Edison NJ for his car so i was going to use them but i'd...

yea thats how i was looking at it too the only thing that is stopping me is the fact that I dont want to in fact lose power by running such a large turbo at low boost rather than buying a smaller big evo III 16G and running at its full potential. So i'm trying to figure out if it will be more...

thanks for the quick reply...the reason i'm so stuck on getting this turbo is because it seems like a great deal that i don't want to pass up but i do want to make sure it will be safe to run it first. I was thinking around 22 PSI would be safe but i'm not 100% sure on stock internals. I'm...

Ok so I have 98 GS-T, 3" turbo back exhaust, intake, 1g bov crushed, wahlboro 255 fuel pump, apexi safc II, SSAutochrome FMIC kit, and an ebay knockoff big 16g. I'm in the process of looking to buy a bigger turbo because I want more and also looking to get injectors. I will be running it on a...

Is that safe for the engine to have that water line crushed like that? Wont that cause lower flow of coolant to the engine or radiator or am i just crazy? lol sorry im asking all these questions but it seems like you know a lot about this turbo and i'm just trying to learn as much as i can. So...

well i have a FMIC on the car now and i have a downward facing j-pipe now which connects to my intercooler piping so im not too worried about the intercooler piping since I installed the kit on my own and had to make some mods to make it fit anyway. The oil feed and return lines im not worried...

Says that the turbo is brand new in box and never installed or used. Here's the link so you can check it out a little better.slowboyracing g60 turbo dsm turboWill this be a good turbo for my setup and hp goals plus daily driven? Any idea if it will just bolt up in place of my Big...

I've got a 98 GST, running 3" turbo back, 3" Megan racing o2 housing, intake, big evo3 16g, boost controller, 1g bov, ssautochrome fmic kit, Apexi SAFC, and also not installed (waiting to get a new turbo) I have 650 injectors and a wahlboro 255 fuel pump and a adjustable FPR. Now I'm looking to...

The knock sensor will be the next thing I check out but wouldn't I have a CEL? Also does anyone have the link for the diagram and layout of the engine bay with sensors labeled? I saw it once before and am having a hard time finding it.

Well the only reason I don't believe it's my rings is because when I did a compression test my numbers came back at around 160 all cylinders but who knows ya know...I was just guessing valve stem seals so that's why I was using Lucas

Ok so if right now I'm running 10w-30 with Lucas all year round do you think 10w-30 alone in the winter is fine and something like 15w-40 or 20w-50 alone in the summer is good? The main reason I ran Lucas is because I burn a small amount of oil through my valve stem seals I believe.

Yea where I live winters can get down in the 20's sometimes so I'm thinking 20w-50 will be a bit thick. I think I'll stick with 10w-30 in the winter and than go with a 15w-40 or 20w-50 once the temps hit consistently over 60 degrees...after reading what everyone has to say it seems as though...

As long as the noisy lifters aren't a serious threat and really only more annoying than anything else than I'm not so worried about them anymore but I will say I will NOT be using Lucas oil stabilizer anymore. I think I'll go with 15w-40 or 20w-50 in the summer and something like 10w-30 or...

But 20w-50 without lucas won't do any harm all season right?

Wow really?? That's awesome! I'll def be looking into getting some of those to try!! What about the 20w-50 oil?

Is 20w-50 too heavy for all season use without the Lucas additive because 15w-40 seems like there's less of a selection

Yea I wasn't sure if going with a thicker oil or a thinner oil would help this so that's what I'm trying to figure out...any one can confirm?

I really can't afford a rebuild so I'm just looking for something to quiet it like changing the weight of the oil or something. I have no loss in power or performance but I'd like to stop the issue now before it causes a real problem.

When I first start my 98 GST I get the normal valve tap that goes away after a few minutes of idling and once the car warms up but recently with the colder weather hitting, the valve tap comes back after the car is warmed up while I drive and can last anywhere from a minute to 15 minutes...

It seems like the ssac kit requires a lot of cutting around te radiator support and does not allow u to use ## oem foglights...I'd like to keep my oem foglights and I don't mind cutting the inside of my bumper but I'm a little uncomfortable cutting my metal radiator support. Is there any...

Ah i'm so torn between the two...I mean I'm leaning toward the ssac one just because it's like $150 cheaper n both kits seem to have a decent amount of people saying they are great. Will I need to buy a bracket or make a bracket for the ssac kit or is it included as well like the punishment kit...

Out of the 2 kits listed (the punishment racing one and the ssautochrome one) how were they to install? Pretty easy and straight forward or any mods required?

ok guys i just need some opinions please...i have a 98 gs-t spyder and its a daily driven street car. Right now I have a turbo back 3" exhaust, evo III 16g turbo, hard intake pipe, greddy rs bov, safc II, coilovers (not that it really matter for this thread) just to give you guys an idea. Now...

Ok lol I just wanted to make sure because I wasnt 100% sure that I was right lol