O'rielly axles are good if you lower the car to much the boots will rip. Make sure the angle of the axle is not to great. You can also solve this problem with a replacement boot that has wider ridges for flexing.

If someone changed the oil filter sometimes the ring from the old filter gets stuck on the housing. Get a new oil filter and see if that makes it stop. Only hand tighten the new filter and make sure to put a little oil on the new o ring.

Check your motor mounts. Do not know who did the install but if they busted a mount or a bolt for fell out you will get a vibration. Do not know how violent it is but something to check.

I had that same problem the faster I went the worse it got. It was a axle you should also jack up the car and check for play in the wheels.

This may sound stupid but you probably just don't have enough oil in the motor. At the higher rpm's the motor is pumping all the oil it has out to the motor. Check the oil I would bet that it is pretty low. Hope that helps.

If it is the original motor you need to check the crank to see if it has any movement side to side. I hope not but I sould check to be sure. You could also see if your clutch pedal moves during the noise or hard turns. Could be CW.

You can do that if you are motivated is a little bit of trouble but snicky is always good. If you really want to do the setup look for the pump system off of a ford lightning truck you can get them cheap and would work nice. Adding ice for those serious races works good too. Good Luck

I would say it was time for that turbo to go. I had the same problem the exhaust wheel of your turbo is broke off the shaft hence the smoke and alot of shaft play. Make sure you do the research befroe buying a new turbo there are alot of 16g's for the price of a 14b. If you are planning on...

A gear wrench rachet will be your best friend in that situation. They sell them at Orielly's for a decent price.

Not sure where you work but porting a head is very difficult with very little room for error. If you don't have a flow bench you will probably lose HP. It is always worth it to spend the money on a proven head or turn up the BOOST. :thumb:

Get the ARP's they will not stretch like the stock head bolts under high boost. I would recommend the cometic or the MLS head gasket both are good gaskets. It is not as important as you think though the tune is the most important. Reliablitiy it is a good idea to go ahead with a multi layer use...

Make sure both surfaces are clean you should not need a sealant. But if you are having trouble I would use a copper see if that works. Becareful with the bolts into the head they will strip out just keep it in mind while tightening.

I like dealing with slowboy they have good customer service. I have heard bad things in the past, but I have never had a problem. Good Company. :thumb:

First adjust the idle air screw and see if you can get the car to idle. The ticking is probably nothing maybe injectors or lifters neither one is a big deal. If you are looking at the throttle body the idle air screw is in the top facing the front of the car.

You can look under the hatch and they will holes in the first layer of metal you can use as a guide.

More than likely they just didn't bleed the clutch line good a common problem. I should not be hard figure out. Good Luck

Yes they are the same. The turbo cams in the 1g are a little bit bigger nothing I would tear down the engine to mod. If the engine was apart they would be worth putting in though.

Makes sure that the lock pointing the right direction small side toward the guage. Then push the nylon line in while you tighten the nut it should collapse on the line. You should be able to pull on the line and it not move. Hope that helps.

Sorry to say this but I would check the crank for in and out play. I know someone that recently had a noise didn't sound like a rod. Crankwalk sometimes just makes a modist tamping or knocking sound. Hope that helps

If you are asking if the MBC will go to 1 psi it will not your wastegate is not that efficient to regulate the boost that low. You can only run the lowest number of boost that your actuator spring is set for the MBC can only turn up the boost from that point. It just regulates the air into the...

The AWD and FWD clutches are the same for turbo cars. Bad news is the only way to know is to pull it all apart to find out where the clearance issue is at no other way to know it is in the bell housing though. Hope that helps.

The solenoid on the starter seizes up over time. Hitting it with a hammer breaks it loose so it will engage to turn the car over. It is only a temporary solution but will work a couple of times. The starter will unjam maybe for a little while but will go back to that state soon. Buy a new...

If you did not change the flywheel the clutch or the flywheel might be catching on the bell housing. FWD and AWD have different size flywheels to so if you put a AWD in a FWD the clutch catches on the bell housing. Hope that helps.

Or a T67-T3 from Full-Race :D

I have used both the DSM Link and the Ecu plus both are good units. Both have good tech support I only tuned the DSM Link in a friends car but it worked out smooth. I like the tuning windows of the Ecu plus alot and it also has good tech support on their forum in one case the developer even made...

It will be fine just don't get into real high boost numbers or you will get a little knocking. Not very likely should still equal out to around 91.

No as long as it does not move. But it will get loose over time so you will want to get it fixed eventually.