White smoke would indicate a head gasket issue. Oil would be blue. Combined with the low compression on cylinder number three I would bet a blown head gasket. A leakdown test will tell you for sure, though.

Before running the engine any more do a leakdown test. That will rule out the rings and avoid doing more damage. If it checks out ok then do a compression test. If everything checks out ok then start looking for leaks or malfunctioning parts in the PCV system.

1.920-1.950".

Yes, it definitely needs to be addressed. Next step would be to remove the crank, clean it thoroughly and mic the journals to verify the problem. Then you can make the decision to either grind the crank or replace it.

Looks like the result of a barrel-shaped journal; larger in the center and smaller on the outer edges. Usually from improper grinding or polishing. The tighter clearance in the center causes the accelerated wear that you see.

At 400WHP you wont reach the limits of the 4G64 block. We use the 4G64 mostly in cases with Evo customers who don't have a usable 4G63 core block. The Evo blocks are close to $1000 on the used market which makes the '64 a good option at $350.

The deck of the 4G64 block is thinner and so are the cylinder walls. Due to the larger bore there's less material between the cylinders (which is made worse when over boring) so getting a head gasket to seal under higher boost can be difficult.

On the street, DD, auto-x and road racing the stroker has the advantage. Pretty much the only time we build a 2.0 anymore is for customers with drag cars. If you want RPM you can build a stroker to rev, but there's little to no need for it because it will make a ton more usable power and torque...

Just pointing out other possible causes because your advice might not fix his problem. Not here to argue or point out shortcomings, just trying to offer thorough advice to help the OP avoid tearing it back apart.

How do you know it's the seals and not the guides? Or perhaps bad rings in that cylinder? Maybe it's not oil but fuel from a bad injector?

Check the valve seats while it's apart. Better to find a leaky valve now instead of having a miss once you get it back together.

You can place a shim under the seat to get the pressure where you want it. Just be sure to check for coil bind clearance. Too much shim could put you into bind.

Yes they're worth the upgrade. Significantly stronger than the standard h-beams. Shoot me a PM if you're in the market for parts for your project. We can meet or beat offerings from most vendors.

It's easier to ruin a head by porting than it is to make it better. I'd say that head flows worse than stock. Just look at the amount of reversion. Pay close attention to the areas where the carbon has been washed away by the fuel; that's your high velocity area. Areas where there is carbon...

Port shape is wrong. Work on the divider is wrong. Excessive deposits mean that there is significant reversion taking place, more wrong. I see stock guides and there's no telling what's in the bowl and seat areas. Probably more wrong-ness. Also curious to know actual port volume; it looks big to...

Crappy job.

The block most certainly can "warp". I have seen the factory block deck be out by as much as .014". In order for a Cometic to seal properly both the head and block need to be resurfaced. If you're not able or willing to do both then your option would be to use a composite as someone stated.The...

It didn't take too much arm twisting.

Using a thicker head gasket increases the quench area. Makes for a less efficient chamber, less power and more likely to detonate.

I think I was talking to you on Facebook yesterday. You didn't mention you were building a 6 bolt. I was under the impression you had a 7 bolt and were using a 6 bolt head. I can still offer you the same pricing I quoted yesterday.

I can match those prices as part of our Black Friday/Cyber Monday special. Only difference would be King XP bearings in place of the ACL's.

That's not an accurate statment.

Long story short; They had a pretty significant issue with their cams which resulted in us having to pay to repair a few customers' engines. We made GSC aware of the issue and didn't even seek reimbursement for our losses. They denied the problem existed and decided to disregard the report and...

It does matter. What if he removes the head and the problem isn't a bent valve? Then he's got no way to properly diagnose the problem without comitting to a full overhaul. Taking the time to properly diagnose the problem now will save a lot of time in the long run.

Next step is to perform a leakdown test. That will tell you where the compression is going. Could be head gasket, piston, cylinder head, bent valve, bad valve seat or a number of other factors.

Built lots of early 7 bolts; no issues!

It would take a hell of a lot of milling and big cams to create PtV issues.Using a thicker HG to compenstate for milling will cause more harm than good.

Milling the head will tighten up the quench; which is a good thing. Use the standard (or thinner) head gasket.The oil port mod is advisable.

Damn, how did I miss this thread!

Another good reason to not use GSC cams.

A couple options. Sides of the caps can be knurled or the registers can be swedged to tighten them up. Easy peasy. In extreme cases on rare blocks it's been worth it to actually weld up the registers a bit and remachine them.

The chances of the block being unusable are slim to none. The only time I can recall seeing a 6 bolt block that we couldn't use is if it spun a main bearing or if the thrust bearing was destroyed and allowed the crank to chew the block. Even if the caps are wrong, a properly equipped shop should...

We can do the machine work for you, FedEx Ground will ship an empty block for about $70. If you have any questions please drop me a line, 410-859-3269 is the shop number or my email is [email protected] you choose to do business with us I will offer you free return shipping on the block.

Any pictures of the rod bearings? What clearances? What weight oil? How much oil PSI? Looks like a lot of dirt contamination in the oil. Any crush left to the rod bearings?

The figure 8 job is the preferred method, especially with larger cylinder bores that are close together. I don't see anyting in the photo you posted that would suggest a problem with sealing.Has a receiver groove been machined into the head?If you wanted to eliminate the rings from the block...

Nope. Still wrong. If it doesn't seal on the bench it's only going to get worse on the car. Bad contact area between the seat and valve results in accelerated wear and burned valves. It has nothing to do with lapping or personal preference.

That's right. It's tough to imagine the head flexing but it happens. The best solution would be to add more head studs, but there's nowhere to put them.

This is not true. Bad tech advice. A properly machined and lapped valve will seal 100% before the engine is fired up. I do a vacuum test to 20 in/Hg before a head goes onto the engine and then a leakdown test after the engine is completely assembled. Anything less than 100% seal with vacuum is...

I'm unaware of a composite gasket for the Evo block. I know those guys use the factory MLS gasket with o-rings and reportedly have good success but I wouldn't try it.

It will technically seal with a composite gasket but it defeats the purpose of the o-rings. When the head is torqued in place, the composite gasket simply absorbs the o-ring, for lack of a better word. The idea behind the copper is that the steel wire o-ring forces the malleable copper up into...

Oil pan has no effect on leakdown test.

We build 7 bolt engines and can do up a nice longblock for you.

This might help.https://secure.buschurracing.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=946

The mains I hope.

.0015" is a little tight. Factory specs are for stock engines. You'll want to stay on the mid-high side of the specified range.

Perhaps "problem" was the wrong word. The engine will run but the extra quench area makes for an inefficient burn.

A broach mill can cut as good or better than a CBN when properly set up. Most shops choose a CBN because they're much faster which reduces labor cost. It all depends on the skill level of the machinist and how much pride he takes in his work.There are a lot of high-end race shops who are...

Thicker head gasket will increase quench area and could cause problems.Best is to measure the deck height of the pistons first then choose the HG that will give you proper quench. Deal with the timing issues by using adjustable cam gears.

Yeah I've heard all that before and still choose to use different springs in higher boost engines. We use a LOT of the Kiggly springs, like I said they're great in most applications. The beehive spring has the advantage of being lightweight and it holds up really well. The issue boost pressure...

Fill it in just like Bogus said.