the sound is coming from the trunk.did some asking and found out under power the gears are fine,it's when you let off the gears over lap and thats when you break a tooth and kaboom.put the car in the air tonite,i got alot of parts to take off.

the rearend locked up so i know its not the clutch.

came off the interstate tonite let off the gas and the car jerked hard nasty sounds from the rearend.it still drives but when u get on it the motor reves but no power.what am i to expect when i tear the rear dif apart?

new master cylinder,new slave cylinder,bled the system,no leaks,pedal release rite off the floor any help??

is the adjustment under the dash?thats the only thing i havet tried

dont blow up at me ha ha,when i first bought the car the pedal has always been rite off the floor,blew the motor rebuilt everything,motor,clutch,tranny.pedal is still off the floor,point blank second gear grind.im not getting a full throw off my clutch.my clutch is bleeding down,new components...

new master cylinder,new slave cylinder,bled the system,no leaks,pedal release rite off the floor any help??

you will have to buy an outer tie-rod/control arm end and then you will have to have an alignment.if you find a used one you still have to align.

with an auto trans?no...with a manual trans?maybe on a good day but its a very slim chance.you need that quick launch.

idle?timming or vacuum leak...t-belt,to long of oil pan bolts,there are short bolts and long bolts.I learned the hard way

saw a pic of a 91 vr-4 on this site doing a burnout,how did he do it?the smoke was rolling! didnt see no chain or pole.

lol..I got spare parts,I just need that pic on my wall for bragin rights,so a chain and telephone pole is my only hope?I want a kodak moment.

I want a smokie burnout pic of my vr-4 to hang on my wall.how do I do it?I know things could break but thats the risk I take.I have pics of my nova,chevelle,impala just roasting the tires and now I need one of my vr-4.do I chain my car to telephone pole and let it rip? Im old school buy the...

pivot ball could have broke,slave cylinder bad,master cylinder bad.usually they will leak if they are going bad.

if it was bad rings you would still have some compression.sound like the valves arent closing all the way,you said you changed valve seals maybe one of the valve seals is making the valve hang up and not closing all the way.a burnt valve or a hole in the piston will give you no compression.

sounds like the symtoms of a vacuum leak,check all vacuum hoses you may have bumped one accidently.

tell the car lot that you will kindly take the car off their hands for 500 bucks,wont be hard to fix.

hate to say it but yes the fender has to go.

my galant ran fine one day,next day would not start.let it sit for a day and still no start.pulled the plugs and they looked wet(flooded maybe),left the plugs out for a day to let the cylinders dry out.put new plugs in and had a friend crank the car while i moved the cam angle sensor back and...

thats cool you do clutches and trans everyday,i do engines everyday but we are here to help or asist people that are not so lucky so lets help people and not badger one another:thumb:

bad wheel bearing,tread seperation of tire,unbalanced wheel,bad tie-rod end.just ideas.

arrows on pistons should point toward timming gears,notches on bearings should be on the same side of rod caps(ofset but same side).did you resize the rod journals to match the crank journals?its not plug and play.

use the clutch alingnment tool!the eye is not that good,you will never get it together without it unless your really lucky.

line all your timming marks up(cams and crank marks)and see where you sit.if all marks line up you should be tbc on #1 cylinder,if not you might have jumped timming.

i told you that you had a different problem,guess im stupid....how is the car running?

you are correct,you dont have to split ball joints or remove axel to pull tranny(with engine removed).the question was the axel nut and not being able to remove the axel.that is why the guy just pulled the engine.there is not enough room between the shock towers to put the engine/tranny in as...

your question leads to many questions!! did you tear the motor apart yourself? stock pistons?did a machine shop do it?you will have to be more to the point on your questions if you want a good answer.

the tension arm bolt is still tight.lucky the bolt didnt come lose and throw the belt.

if its first gen then things will interchange,you have a different problem than the cas harness.

how is the transfer case going to bolt on? isnt a n/t tranny on the drivers side?

if its a daily driver then resurface the flywheel,its pretty durable.have the preasure plate and disk in hand when you go to the machine shop so they can resurface it to spec.

you will save more time if you put engine and tranny in as one,way easier.make sure you use the clutch alignment tool or you will never get the engine and tranny together.

DO NOT retorque head bolts.thoes head bolts are a one time torque head bolt.if you retorque thoes bolts after it has been at running temp for awhile you run a high risk of stretching a head bolt.after the 40/80 torque your done

pop the upper and lower ball joints and take the spindle,axel,brake rotor to a diesel mechanic shop have them use their HUGE impact gun on the axel nut.it will make life alot easier.

if you are not burning oil i would leave it.why fix it if it aint broke.

work with me cause i cant spell...the oil will create a film between the armatuer and the magnets in the alternator so it wont charge,antifreeze does the samething.go to the car wash and hose the alternator and let it dry.it worked for me but fix the problem before you go to the car wash.

keep it close to the same color or you will end up painting door jams,inside the trunk and engine bay to make it look good.nothing worse than a hack job.throw some metal flake or pearl in the paint,you will be pleased.it will make people look at your car instead of just a glance.

take a can of carb cleaner and spray a little bit on every vacuum hose connection and intake manifold gasket.if the motor changes rpm then there is your leak.spray one connection then wait 10 seconds then spray another,this will give the motor time to react.vacuum leaks are very notorious on a...

my problem was the cat heat shield rusting off.

you will have to get new head bolts also since they are a one time use..$45.00

you can get the factory kit for about $250 but resurface the head or you will be back to square one.no sence in wasting money.

I 2nd that!! right on!!

thank you!! anything with the word RACE in it means money.the more money you got the faster your going to go.

that was for you

dont want to burst your bubble but its going to cost alot of coin just to achive 600hp,i hope daddy is rich.like i said before good luck.my short block alone was $5000 and that is just a start.

A metal dipstick does not go bad, because of some dummy modifying the crank or forgets the inner dipstick tube and thinks he knows what he is doing - that is how things get messed up, so he shaves the dipstick down to get it to work.

very simple,drain oil,change filter.put new filter on,put 5 quarts oil in.pan holds 4-1/2 quarts and filter holds 1/2 quart,see what it reads.if no oil on dipstick,dipstick is bad because someone messed with it.the motor holds 5 quarts of oil period.had it happen before.

800hp??? you can start with $20,000 thousand dollars in go fast parts to start with...good luck!! nascar motors are 780hp or so and they are v8 and cost on the average of 60,000 thousands dollars,let me know how it turns out.

also after that 20,30 minute break-in dump the oil right away to get rid of all the metal flakes caused from break-in.dont panic,its normal just change oil and filter and you will be good for 3000 miles.