If you do decide to leave the lower nipple open, and you decide to get a large enough turbo (that flows a lot of air between shifts), then you will most likely run into problems. The lower nipple being unplugged allows some air to be released into the engine bay. With a T-25 or so sized turbo...

I would also like to know how to quickly and easily (if possible) check the ECU for a bad ISC directing component... and i would love to know which wires to test for the harness (i.e. where to test them exactly with the multimeter).

Steve do you think you could give me more detailed instructions on how to do the tests you named for the wiring? I have access to a multimeter and know a lil bit about electronics. I just need it spelled out as far as which wires to test for the car specifically :).Also, a video of the...

I narrowed down my idle surge to my ISC , for sure (put in an old non-functional ISC at fully closed step, and surge went away completely). I have two questions:1) How can i check the wiring harness to the ISC to make sure it is fully functional? The coils seem to all check out just fine...

I have checked and adjusted my TPS, in answer to the question above.UPDATE: Yesterday i blocked off my EGR (with a cut out from a can of refried beans), and it did NOTHING to affect the problem. FIAV blockoff is today...Being that the VFAQ link for FIAV is broken (selling the domain...

i have installed turbos into my car 5 times, and every time it smokes for about 10-15 minutes after startup. Yes, i always primed the turbo and gave false starts to charge it with oil. For me, the smoke is anti-sieze compound that i used on the bolts burning off. It is totally normal...

I have a problem with severe idle surge that has been occuring the past month or so. It is classic surge from 1200-1500, and sometimes a bit higher at 1500-1800, cycling about once a second. Here is what i have done so far:First i replaced the ISC with a rebuilt one (bad idea?). This was...

so did you tune your low throttle like i did then?I just put the ebrake on and throttled to the tune points in the AFC while in neutral, adjusting the fuel trims to zero. Then i took it for a drive, and repeated the process.and yes, 415 on one tank was sooo awesome... that's better...

So my idle surge came back temporarily today. It happened after i gunned it (for the first time in a week or two) on the freeway.I have come to the conclusion that i have a boost leak, and here is why i think so:1- idle surge happened after high boost conditions, i.e. after the boost...

so basically just worry about the fuel trims when i'm testing in neutral? because they change a bit when there's a little load on the engine.basically, they are always within 15%, and when i'm in neutral, or slowing down in gear they are locked at a solid zero.So i suppose i should just...

I recently finished upgrading my fuel system (walbro 255 HP, AFPR, SAFC-II, Denso 660's). I had Roy (who used to work for RRE) tune my car (using tunerstein or something equivalent) right after these mods, then began to have idle problems.I had idle surge with occasional dying. I checked...

thanks for the advice on the regional forums...i didnt even know they existed.it seems to me that there are so many cars that are obvioulsy illegally modded in SoCal driving around, there has to be an easier way than trying slip 200 bucks under the table... I am really no good at stuff like...

Hey all,I've been away at school and had to register my car for non-op, since i didnt have time to find a way to smog it here in cali...I am running a 50 trim turbo with all the supporting mods. I AM running a cat in a 3 inch exhaust. However, the chrome piping and compressor in my...

i am having a similar problem... i am going to be doing a soapy water spraydown today and then continuing testing...another thing i would be concerned about is your electric pump... it may be rated to higher PSI, but a simple bike pump can probably outflow it with a decent sized guy behind...

hey all... i was just wondering if it was necessary to block off the NC port in the profec type-S using an internal wastegate (com-->NO).thanks

idle is at 750 RPM +- 15, logger shows no CEL's (havent run a full log when i boost a tiny bit... but the car is getting full power under boost), pulling ~26 mmHg (cold, i think) vacuum at idle,i have done a leak test, but i need to do another, as i dissassembled and reassembled since then a...

i did check and adjust my BISS, and got the idle right. This problem occured before AND after i changed my IAC.

I just replaced my IAC, which fixed my idle issues except for one:when i give my car any boost above 0 PSI and then push in the clutch (allowing the rpms to drop), the idle doesnt catch. RPM's go all the way to zero, and sometimes idle recovers and sometimes it doesnt and the car just dies...

after doing even more research i tested my IAC (ISC) motor with a volt/ohm meter. The top row resistences (1-2, 2-3) were 22 ohms each, and the bottom row resisences were 20.5 ohms each... well below the 28-33 ohm limit. i'm pretty sure this is my problem. i'll be forking out 200 bucks at the...

yeah i know oldman that's the link that says you have to have the tool :). i was asking specifically what to ground to get around that... i've heard it's possible...

i'm not venting... recircing greddy type-S back to intake.my FP is 42 psi at idle (no vacuum line on AFPR... base)... with vacuum it's about 34.i am pretty sure my ISC is just going bad. it's just a matter of it catching the right idle...i also need to properly adjust the BISS...

No lightened flywheel. I am going to try to test my ISC (assuming that it is the same as the 1g procedure on vfaq). Then i will try to adjust my base idle. I will need to find a way around using the diagnostic tool... anybody got a link? Just need to know what to ground and the procedure...

one more thing... when i'm not idling the car runs fine. it is only a problem down in the idle range.

symptoms: car started dying if i dropped in the clutch after boosting (didnt catch at 750+ rpm, just dropped to zero)next, it started idling low, but would correct after about 15 seconds. (600 rpm)now, it idles at 560-630 rpm constantly, and the engine seems rough... i can hear a...

i am having the exact same problem... i'm going to perform a full boost leak test tomorrow to make sure it isnt a boost leak. here's a link to my Thread that might help.

i think i might see your problem. is that the stock T fitting right off of the wastegate actuator that i see? the one that T's to the nipple on the compressor housing, and used to also T to the boost control solenoid? if so, GET RID OF IT. you should have 2 hoses TOTAL: one from the bov...

no lightened flywheel.when i performed the check, the car was cold. the resistance was 24ish ohms, which is slightly less than the range, but not enough to make a difference in my opinion (about 4 ohms).idle was steady at 750 when the car was warmed up.keep ideas comin!

i checked the bov recirc hose carefully for kinks, and even chopped off part of my dejon intake's return line tube to make sure there WASN'T a kink. as far as the car just running like that for a while... i hope that is it!!btw i checked my IAS motor with a V/O meter and it seems to be OK...

no it's not the ISC motor... i never unplugged it, plus i idle fine and see adjustments when i turn on AC, headlights, etc.

ahh yes forgot to say i am still recirculating my bov just like stock. it is a greddy type S.

after installing my dejon race frontmount and AGP RS49T, i took my car out for some EASY non boost driving. i wanted to make sure everything was running before i install my fuel mods tomorrow (walbro 255, 660cc densos, AFPR) (i know i should've done these first, but this is how things fell...

So could somebody explain the NPT thread type to me so i could explain it to the hardware guy? the 1/8" CAN'T be the diameter... no probe would fit into that... so how can i explain this tap to somebody who is a total idiot (like the guy at sears) and doesn't know his own inventory?-i

I am having trouble finding the 1/8" NPT (27) tap that is needed for the greddy EGT probe. It seems to me that the tap is not 1/8" in diameter/circumfrence... but that this is the thread spacing...?i assume this because i was looking for alternatives on the forums and i heard a 9mm - 1.0mm...

i have 650 injectors from FIC, but have decided not to put them in due to a desire to get densos for peace of mind (and RRE refuses to tune a car with FIC injectors.. haha). My question is this: i have found a couple of good deals on denso 660's with under 10k miles on them...but how wise...

i have fitment issues with the rnr elim downpipe and my filter, but somehow can squeeze a big one in every once and a while....

wow i feel like a total moron :) i definitely know the difference between the BCS and the FPS, i just somehow wrote the wrong one down. my BCS is plugged in and no vac lines run to it. It is the FPS... i just dont want to spend 80 bucks on one at the god damn dealer (even though i tested mine...

I have had this engine code for about 6 months now, and after reading up on the purpose of the BCS (WARM starts - extra fp), i decided that i'd be patient and just keep clearing the code every time it came up (about once a week). I checked my BCS with a vacuum pump and a v/o meter, and it works...

i was actually going to port out my stock 2g mani a bit, as i cant afford an aftermarket one yet. so i suppose a follow-up question is... what gaskets did you guys buy in addition to the turbo? did you replace both of them, and did you buy them from AGP?thanks again for the replies-ian

Hello everybody,I am 90% sure that i'm going to go with the RS49T 50 trim for my turbo upgrade (from t25). I'm going to go internal gating simply because i cannot afford to go external yet. My questions are this, for people who have experience with this turbo: Did you get both the oil...

anybody have any idea? I was thinking about unplugging it and hooking up a galvanometer to the terminal and doing a hot start to see if voltage reaches it... and if it does, just going to buy a new one....any ideas appreciated!

Via palm'n'stein i'm getting a P1105 (fuel pressure solenoid malfunction) code (although palmnstein is unable to get the DTC, it gave me the code itself). I took off my FPS, applied voltage, and vacuum tested it, and it held 25 inHg no prob. i disconnected the voltage, and it flowed perfectly...

Yeah if you have an O2 dump (not into the exhaust, into the engine bay), then if you get it cut as shown in the link, you will ALWAYS be throwing exhaust out that dump into your bay, not just when your wastegate opens. This not only will probably stain stuff in your bay with exhaust fumes...

I think this was more of a "which turbo would be best for my application" thread ... i found it very useful, as i was considering the same two.I believe i'm going with a PTE off of extremePSI... they are great deals and are nice turbos as well...

i have GSX rear tokikos with eibachs on my GST. They fit fine. If they're stiffer, all the better. I installed them myself with no difficulty.

yeah that's essentially what i'm asking... would there be a problem with getting the grease off (of the threads IN THE HEAD) with a T-shirt on a screwdriver, if i was sure the t-shirt was clean and not linty, etc...

Ok guys, so through a extremely enraging mix up of greases, i used a non-dielectric grease on my spark plug installation. I started the car and it died immediately, not getting spark (duh, arcing was prbobably disgusting due to the conducting grease.) Everything else was 100% by the book, i'm...

actually i am about to get it _smogged_... whether i PASS smog is the question, not whether i get it smogged or not :)the cat is not stock cat, but i dont anticipate that being a problem. replacing the xhaust again would be a huge pain in the ass.

interesting :) I think i'll just go through the 30mins to an hour of replacing the filter and IC pipe with stock instead of having to go back again, which would really be a PITA. Thx guys.

I am just about to get my vehicle smogged (i live in CA)...My 3" turboback exhaust has a cat, so i'm not too concerned bout emissions. However, the visual inspection has me worrying a tiny bit, just gonna ask some basic questions:I have an upper IC pipe and greddy type S BOV...

i dont see how you guys dont think that's totalled. There's severe frame damage, glass damage, driveline damage, probably pretty decent engine damage too. Hell i got in a fender bender a year and a half ago... dented my hood on a trailer hitch of a huge explorer. Only engine damage was the...