Because I recently just lowered my car again, also changed out my bumber to teh 2GB talon bumper after a 145mph spinout.:D

<- Going with the LADSM guys.

fatherbubble has been posting alot of mis-information. Honestly I dont know how you bend valves from a bad tune. Melting pistons or cracking ring lands, yes, but bending valves? Theres no way you can kill a motor with DSMlink, its got such a nice logging feature you'd have to be a total moron to...

What he explained above is only for 6bolt in 2G cars. You still have your stock 7bolt. Yes this is Illeagle from the other forum. ROFL Just do what I said.

If you get a decent unmolested GSX thats been taken car of and maintained, and all mods are planned and thought out well, it can be rewarding. Clint up there just went with all the baller Versace, Louis Vuitton stuff. If you wan a decent peppy DD that can hold its own, a 2G a properly tuned 16G...

whether its a 1G head or 2G head it shouldnt matter. The only way to do a 6bolt swap is to use a 1G cam angle sensor, or the crazy hard way, some serious machine work to the oilpump case of a 7bolt to fit the 6bolt block. If it is in actuality a 6bolt, its a common thing for it to get misfire...

and you paid them to do it? Or did you buy the car and he had a reciept that says it was done?

It really depends on wich way it skipped and which cam. If skipped timing twice, once one the intake cam by 4 teeth and it was 4 teeth retarded and it bent 2 intake vavles. Another time it it jumped from the BS belt snapping and it didn't damage anthing. Kinda like Russian Roulette

please dont tell me this is about a blinky LED AFR guage. Its about as accurate as a kid with down syndrome doing algebra. And your car is NA, whatever you do wont throw off you AFRs too much and the ECU will compensate anyways.

What does the MAF have to do with Valve timing? ROFL. If you unplug you maf and the car runs worse, then you MAF is most likely still working. Doubt you even know what the MAF does.Do the simple tests first and post results, plugs, wires, boost leak, compression. Als do you have a logger? if...

what are you using to control those injectors? FMU just control your fuel pressure, not the actual amount of time the injectors open.

You should do some research before you post. Bigger injectors will allow you to support more boost, but you can run more boost without fuel, just theres a possiblity of causing damage due to leaning out. You probably have no idea what fuel cut is and how it happens. It happens when you overrun...

If its staggered and the compressor housing says TD05H on it, most likely its a 16G variant, which one? who knows. You can bring up a search on 16G serial numbers.

You can do a few searches and tests before asking a question. Check for spark when it first starts, how are A/F R's at start up. Temp sensor, could cause that. Plugs, wires. Wrong size injectors on stock ecu if his engine is truly "Jaydem".

The inducer and housing will be fine.

You could try some starting fluid in the mani to check to see if fuel is and issue or if spark is and issue. If it starts up with starting fluid, then your not getting fuel, if it doesn't theres and ignition problem. (incorrect spark timing or no spark) Also, seen it happen here at work, snapped...

good for you, back on topic. To the OP, It really woulnt be worth it to do all this to a 1GNT, you'll be better off selling it and buying a Turbo 1G becuase they all are nearly the same price. They cost and headache of turboing your 1gnt or swapping heads, you could of boght one already turboed.

Yes people have dont the 64 block with a 63 head. But they seem to have alot of headgasket issues. Best bet would be a 63 2.0 block with a 64 crank anbd a 63 head. 2.3 stroker ftw!

What would be the point of this? Most of the displacement if from the bore and stroke, not the head. Putting a 2.4 head on a 2.0 block wont change your displacement at all if any if it worked. Thats my main point. You will still be a 2.0 whether is single or dual cammed your wont see any gains...

the 2.4 is single cam. That would be a step backwards. You'll have a single cam 2.0.

Turn the engine over manually to Top dead center Cyl#1. Make sure the marks on the Cams line up with a STRAIT EDGE. And the mark on the crank pulley is at TDC. When you do a Boost leak test, have the engine at 30* ATDC and test it. It should pressurize fairly easy, you should be able to take the...

Check Valve timing, exhaust leaks. Also explain how you did the boost leak test, in extreme detail because not many know how to do the test and think they did it right but in it was done totally wrong and it still is leaking. But definitely valve timing and also ignition timing. Compression test...

I agree. Also the fact she doesn't mind getting down a dirty pulling and engine out and cleaning up the engine bay. The fact she knows what an engine is! HAWT!:thumb:

It's normal. Mate her up, wire her up, have fun!

Congrats on the purchase!First this first. Mantainance. T-belt, BS belt, Waterpump, Pulleys, Hydrulic tensioner. SBR and Extremepsi both have good prices on OEM parts. VC gasket, spark plug gomments, 1/2moon seal, and oil cap seal will fix all the leaks up top. Plugs (NGK bpr6es) and wires...

Just go 6 bolt. if you can pull and install a 7 bolt u can do a 6bolt. read the tech article at magnus motorsports and youll see how easy it is.

GS spyder = 4G64. GST Spyder = 4G63T.:nono:

To tsi8820. Don't talk unless you know what your saying we don't need misleading info on this board. The Chrysler 420a is a DOHC 2.0l in the NT 95-99 DSMs Also found in some dodge avengers, and dodge neons. The NT spyders have SOHC Mitsu 4g64. The turbo 95-99 DSMs came with the DOHC 7bolt 4g63t...

home depot rents milwalkee sawzalls for like 13 bucks

look into the taboo speed shop vac reference. You should stil have the line for the FPR, and BOV. Also look into the BISS screw and IAC motor.

Sluggishness. Hop in a car that has a perfect IC system with no leaks. You really don't notice until it becomes a big problem. :thumb:

push start it. With the key at "on", in neutral get the car to about 10 mph and put the clutch in and put it in 1st and pop the clutch out.

what year ECU? And what year harness?

So you were originally running the "no name" PP? and just changed out the OEM disc for an ACT?. How bout the throw out bearing? Was that replaced? A quick thing to try is adjusting the master rod where it threads into the pedal assembly.

Are you even reading what I'm saying? I just explained why your car was fine before the clutch install twice. Did you replace your shift fork and pivot ball? If your master is bad, It would leak out on your firewall under the dash. The springs have as much to do with disengagment as your boost...

The slave piston comes in many colors...thats no big deal. Extending he slave rod is only a band aid fix. Adjust your clutch master by threading the rod out of the pedal assembly more. But to me, it sounds like your fork/pivot ball is worn. It wont effect the stock clutch much becuase it takes...

the RRE pressure plate works on leverage to disengage it unlike the ACT that requires a short throw to disengage but with a heavier pedal. So with more leverage you need a longer throw (IE using a long breaker bar takes less effort vs a short one, but the distance you move the end of the bar...

Could also possibly be and ECU issue, Just pull it and look at it. You will know. Also it will have a distinct fishy smell.

Sorry Viprez but he's running a MAFT, and if its in blow through setup (most who runs MAFTs do) even a blown IC coupler wont effect metered readings (of course unless if its at the elbo, but that would be obvious). If he popped off a vac line and was pulling aie into the manifold it would run...

On my way to work I was watching the logger while keeping at a steady cruise rate of 40mph at around 2000 RPM and made an interesting observation. At that load, the car was pulling 2-3 g/s of air, but from time to time it would jump to 12-14 g/s randomly and that was about the same time the car...

I'm not saying that it's my excact AFR, I know that a norrowband is not something to rely on for accurate AFR readings but it's obviously rich. Doesn't matter what the narrowband says, if its popping and bucking and shooting out flames....I think I'm a bit on the rich side. If you don't have...

The Car: Updated in profile: 95' TSI with 6Bolt, 16G, Stock Fuel System, GM MAF + MAFT.Basicly it ran great for the last 7 months minus suspension issues.Last saturday I was at a meet in Chino Hills, car drove out there fine and as I decide to go home, the timing belt jumped 3 teeth on...

I see why HAHA. Really though, sorry about the loss. Learn and build it yourself. Theres a vast amount of info in these archives. READ READ READ, and you'll build a better stronger one that you can be proud of saying you did it yourself. :thumb:

Differrent metals/alloys expand at different rates. Sorry to bash on your builder, but I wouldn't go back to them again.

Piston slap. Too much clearence between Cylinder walls and Piston. Who built this engine? :notgood:

An update: Just got a new O2 sensor, the old one was fouled out bad. Funny thing is when I ran my compression test, the plugs looked fine. By the way, plugs are gapped to .028 with a feeler guage. The new O2 sensor made no diffence at all, still running 1.0v+ O2v. Funny thing, when I take the...

The Car: Updated in profile: 95' TSI with 6Bolt, 16G, Stock Fuel System, GM MAF + MAFT.Basicly it ran great for the last 7 months minus suspension issues.Last saturday I was at a meet in Chino Hills, car drove out there fine and as I decide to go home, the timing belt jumped 3 teeth on...

That would be sweet. A DSMtuners car. Live up to our "2Liter V8 Eater" motto.

For one, yes, the valve cover breather has to go back into the intake. I cant tell but, It Looks like you have a boost controller, and also the vac nipples from the TB looked capped off.Nice to have another local join the DSM world.

ROFL!! Really though??