simple I know and dumb to ask but is the maf plugged in. I only say this b/c i did it once myself.

Or, keep it since it actually runs and then buy a 4g63t that does not run. now you can chase parts all day fixing the other until it is up and running.

AS long as you stay within your generation you should be fine. I know 1g's have 3 and the 2g's have one mount.

I believe its the same thing, just wires up a little differantly...there are some threads on here about how to wire it on a 2g (i think).

More than likely its the rings and combined with a bad HG...looks like you have some work ahead of you. Best of luck to ya.

why are you posting twice under 2 screen names...link does not work on either one

link is not working

We sell ALOT of it advance, fixes alot of idle, misfire, emessions issues and all sorts of little things like that. The truckers buy it by the gallon all the time for the big trucks since diesel was changed by the gov't. It works great!

So you are using a SAFC to tune 880's? If that is the case then that could vary easily cause your problem. Those 625's were almost at the peak of what AFC's can handle and that is 650's. Mroe than likely you need to look into dsmlink now with all you mods and you should see way more power

sorry, I was not thinking aobut the difference between the awd & fwd...kinda forget sometimes.

There are some palm type devices out there you can use on your 2G, they are all over hte classifieds. Your SAFC 1 will do just fine and you can go with a set of RC or PTE 550's, oh and you can always use evo 8 560's if you like the mitsu reliability thing...

The valve spring compressors can be rented/checked out for a holding fee and when you return the kit you will get your money back. Also I am sure you know this but you might as well get a new mitsu timing belt, TB tensioner and the water pump. While the head is off you need to send it out and...

you do not have to pull it off if you don't want to right now. Any advance or autozone can test it while its still connected to the car.

You have 3 options. 1- Spend some money and get a rear camber kit from Ingalls. 2- The less expensive but harder of the two to install, there is the DME kit out there. 3-Take those springs out and use another set that does not have that much of a drop. You have to align the rear end but there...

Sounds more like your synchros or a Slider is going bad. Have you tried adjusting your clutch, or bleeding the slave cylinder yet? Do the simple things first and then see where you are. What about your shifter bushings, those can go bad and cause some freeplay in the system and make it a little...

I started using water wetter and it actually worked for my 1G, it is hot as heck here in SC and very humid. What about your radiator, is it the stock one? I know it might be working still but it HAS to be somewhat clogged or at least not nearly as efficient due to its age. I actually went...

I know it can be done, I have some EVO3 internals in my tranny but be careful not to change the final drive ratio. If you do it can cause problems with your rear end.

I had megan racing coilovers and I hated them, enough to the point where I put the factory springs back in the car. Way to stiff of a spring rate for my taste.

Air Force Loadmaster here, by far one of the best enlisted jobs ever. If you enjoy sleeping in the desert and all that then the army if the way to go. Do not get me wrong I have all the respect in the world for those folks but it is not my thing. I rather be in a plane, fly around the world...

so what about your crank pulley, did you ever try that?

Wish I would have seen your post sooner, I dount you will like the megan racing springs. They will drop the car and as long as you are not moving they look good but DAMN are they very very stiff. Not sure about the 2g but I do know that on a 1G the rear camber goes to crap and you HAVE to go...

You my friend are looking in the wrong board if you want to find upstate SC or lower NC guys. PM me if you would like to know more.

Mine car did the exact same thing as yours, I could acutally pop the clutch at times and the squel would go away or if I mess with how far it was pressed in and it would change the pitch of the squel. Its a hell of alot cheaper than CW, or messing with the clutch or any of that crap. If you have...

Not recommended, at least that is everything I have read and seen on some other threads.Just run the coarse and stay with what it known to be good stuff

So have you tried google or wikipedia or any search engine to answer all this or do you want to be spoon feed?Those cars are far from stock, did you not see 8.5/9K rpm on them and over 165KPH.It is easy to see you are going to get way in over your head on this so please do some homework...

Suppose you are going to give me shit for not mentioning that 7psi is the "stock" boost level, oops:notgood:

Window tint will help you out a good bit, not in direct heat reduction but at least with the UV rays and thats what cooks you any way. Now if its just F-in hot then yeah....not much there to do other than what was stated

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159657&highlight=belt+diagramhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115034&highlight=belt+diagramSearchy Searchy Button helps, hopefully this can help you get the motor inGoogle is a great thing and this link should help you...

I bet you a harmonic balancer is your issue b/c I had a very simliar problem. I checked my old one and it "looked" ok but I finally said screw it and put a new one in and the squels went away.You can go to about any part store and get one, I know Advance can ge them next day order is you...

and thats why we have noob's, great example. HAHA

yep yep, same issue I had and thats what defiant told me it was, spent the 90$ on a new one and the problems are all gone. I spent a month chassing sounds, wish I would have known this sooner,lol.

I think the turbo autos, only have 390cc injectors instead of 450's and a smaller 13G turbo that runs at 7psi. I mean fir 400$ it is not bad but you are going to need to spend more money on mods to get you to your goal.Find a set up out of a m/t car that has the 450's and 14b already on it...

Who has said 16, I have always read 14-15 is the most. Most of the figures are however for a car in peak condition with no issues at all. The safest and best bet is run wastegate PSI until you get a SAFC b/c the last thing you want to do is hurt the car

Rather rude and smart ass reply ot an honest question, ever wonder maybe he had a reason and knows what he is talking about, food for thought....:notgood:As far as bolting it, just do it and find out for yourself then.Only issues I see is if you have a stock exhaust which I fairly sure...

Ok, thanks...now I can fix my car and laugh at my friend b/c he has a little groove in his TB. Sorry for the threadjacking

Center force is always a good choice to with, http://www.hopupracing.com/cedufrdiandp14.html

what is so special about the "short one", this is the first I have heard or read of this.

So after reading this thread this is what I get, you are a fool to think that you can throw a turbo on and call it good. Also I see you do not know how to manage money, i.e. a new turbo from $400-$800 depending on what you want to blow your motor up with but yet all you need to do is take that...

white, that is my 2cents

Anazing deal and congrats....was that you messing with the cruise set up or was it like that?

The fpr can be pulled off the rail. So no, just replce the FPR and it will be snug to tight but just twist it as you pull and it will pop out

Sorry, we can not do that here. Quick way to get a thread closed. just look up there in the right hand side of the screen and you will see the "Classifieds". There is all sorts of stuff in there, just need to search for itAs far as upgrades go, just follow the upgrade path for the free mods...

call up advance/autozone whatever you have near by and you will see the have different part numbers, so there is a reason why. Basically it comes down to the amount of amps the alt's put out, the turbo alt's put out more that the n/t and the are close in price.

i thought 210 was at the crank or whatever and not the wheels, coud be wrong but anywho.If 300 is your goal, a S16G can get you there but a evo16g can do it easier and if you search around there is not a huge difference in price plus it lets you grow later on WHEN you want more.^^dang...

I believe that is normal, mine is around 1200-1300 and when the AC comes on it dips to 700-800 rpm.And yes get a logger, they are fairly inexpensive and can tell you ALOT about your car before something major happens, if it does that is.

My friend just had is 14b powered 2g dyno'd about 2 weeks ago. He is running a supra sidemount, 550's, 255, safc and all that goodness at 18psi and he put down 235 to the "front" wheels

ummm, possibly a wheel bearing. Take the tire off, jack it up and spin the hub by hand and listen for the sound. Anything other than that it will be heard to tell over the internet, ya know

After about 10secs of the search button here is your purple wire, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=154211&highlight=gm+maf+installheres another thread about gm maf install, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240412&highlight=gm+maf+installAgain with the...

Check anything made of rubber, i.e. belts and lines. Critters have a habit of making nests or homes as well in weird places in a car so look aorund for something like that. Please go and chec the brakes and make sure the lines are not bad and the calipers are not seized up.Great find and...

SAFC will tune your setup just fine. It is reccomended not to go bigger than 650's on a SAFC. Your block should hole up with no problems at 300 WHP. Only issue is this thing called crankwalk but thats going to do nothing but start another debate,lol. Are you going to go with a evo 16g, those are...