I jus revieved my main studs and Im looking at install directions and I alittle confused on the what torque sequence to use. It say use manufactures torque sequence, is this even given? and also dont I have to install in different torque stages? Also I dont understand how the directions say...

also since I plan on doing an ebay turbo kit, how much power can the 1g pistons take? I just wanna slap on a turbo kit, fuel pump, head studs, ECM+ and call it a day...

Thanks for the respons, would somebody be so kind as to post a diagram of the torque order :)

kind of a stupid question but can ARPs be installed without removing the head? My guess is yeah....

would I be stupid for running this cheap mani+cheap turbo on a built motor?

megan is starting to look better

Are just saying that its bulletproof because of the add or do you have one of these?

Does anybody have experience with these manifolds? I tried searching but couldnt find anything, here's a link-http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=460&catid=86

are these numbers with stock headbolts and head gasket?

I was thinking blow-thru set up, fuel pump, injectors, ebay core, 3" DP, and SBR lsd insert. Also, I forgot to mention I have a ACT 2600 already in...

Im going to have about $1500 to spend in the next couple of weeks.... As of now my engine is completely stock except for a 16g (not sure if big or small). Also, keep in mind this engine is in a 92 dodge colt so I dont need too much power to go fast ;)

The end to the saga....Injector plug came looseDamn I feel stupid!!!! Thanx for all your help guys!!!!

Thanks for the great input guys...The only reason I think I still have good compression is the fact that I still pull really good vacumn. About 19hz at idle and about 24 on decel.Im going to figure this out after work so hopefully I can write the conclusion to thread :)

Yeah, Im praying its just a blown out plug. What a good plug to use?

Have you tried adjusting the idle adjustment screw?

I think Im gonna start with the spark plugs...if it is a bad spark plug, which brand and gap is recommended for a stock 6-bolt with a 16g and nothing else?

I also wanted to mention that the car isnt puffing smoke, pulling normal vacumn, and made about a 1/2 hour drive back home. Does is stil sound like I have internal damage?

head gasket, huh? That doesnt sound so good :(

As I'm driving on the freeway, I downshift into 3rd from 4th wind the car out and hit the redline then BAM. The car backfires and I feel a sudden lose in power. The car still drives somewhat okay but shakes at low RPMs and sounds almost like a subaru. Does this sound like I blew out a spark plug?

sounds like a bad alternator.

will do, thanks guys....

The engine is completely stock(91 6-bolt, 4G63t) with the exception of a 16g. The car drives perfectly normal except at idle. The vacumn bumps up and down from 20 to 22hg, it almost sounds like I have aftermarket cams. When I first got the car, it would randomly do this...all I had to do, was...

I love it!!!

quick question, will a alternator from a 90 gst work on a 91 gst?

bump for wiseman input

I think I might have found my short; the stud thats sitcks out of the alternator (hot side) easily pushes in and out and spins. I'm guessing something has gone wrong internally causing a major short and poping the alternator fuse. Has this happened to anybody else?

Yeah, I'm thinking this might be the problem. I tried running it without the spacer and it instantly fried the fuse. But I'm pretty sure the car blow a fuse with the spacer in place. The weird thing is I drove my Colt tonight and there was no battery light with the blown fuse still in place.

A while back I blew the 80amp alternator fuse, so I replace it and everything is fine. Now, the other night I go to start the car and the battery light comes on. So, I go check the fuse and guess what? yeah, it blown out yet again. So I put another fuse in, connect the battery, get a nice...

why doesn't anybody recommend using the MAFT for tuning?

kinda off subject, but has anybody on here used the XS tubular maniifolds? There just so damn cheap, plus the lifetime warrenty against cracks....Seems like a good deal even if they are pieces of ish.

LOL well It felt like the thing to do since I had the 16g just laying around....oh and it's a fuel pump from a GS-T

Currently I have a colt with a 6-bolt, all stock with a 16g (not sure if its big or small). My plans are to keep it streetable, so im planning on going with the GM MAFT 2.01, 3in MAF and venting, 3in DP, and a FMIC somwhwere in the future. Can I get some input on what size fuel pump...

VDO all the way!

LOL now I'm confused...must be my new member status, huh?

So what's your question exactly? maybe you have a bad crush washer....if were are talikng about the same bolt, your either going to have to pull the manifold out leaving the turbo in place, or loosen the turbo to mani studs to give you a little extra room to work with. I think the easiest way...

Hah, I didn't even think about that! Does that mean I get to race in the domestic lane?

Think i found my problem- Blown alternator fuse.

^^^^ yeah I'm really lovin this colt, the 4G63 with the 16g pulls nice! can't wait to to 3in d/p w/no cat and full intercooler piping and fuel mods!!!

this is what people really laugh at...

help, something is wrong with my car. I had the car apart for a while because I had to change out the O-ring on the main water pipe. Anyways I get everything back together, start the car up, let it idle(only had around 15 Hg), drive around the block, boosted it and got a 25 lb spike!!! Kinda...

This just happened to me...I gurantee its a bad o-ring from the water pump to main water pipe(right behind the power streering). Your gonna have to take off the alternator and power streering just to be able to get to it. Also check the water lines in that area, maybe you'll get lucky!

looks good so far...only thing your gonna have to worry about is when you put the auto tensioner on, it pulls and moves one of the cam gears(pretty sure the right side). So when your setting up your marks have the one mark slightly higher then the other before installing the tensioner.

you shouldnt have to worry about honing out the bolt holes with the ARP hardware. But you will have to hone the rods back to size after torqing down the bolts, because the caps distort.

I guess I'm going to answer my own question then....I figure if I take the manifold off, and leave the turbo in place I should be able to get to the nut thats holds the water pipe bracket.

So, what is the easiest, or is there a way to remove the water pipe without removing the turbo? I finally found that my coolant leak is coming from the water pipe to water pump connection, so I'm assuming its a bad O-ring. Got the O-ring today so I'm trying to figure this out...It seems the...

What is the best way to get the lower alternator nut off(the nut right above the oil filter). Theres barely any room for anything kind of tool to fit with the oil pump and exhaust in the way....

And what exactly is a weep hole?

Okay!!!! now your starting to scare me....

Thank you guys for all your inputs!!!!! Please dont kill me but my next question is...do you think my pump is bad or could it be the gasket because after getting my car smogged and being ran on the dyno, it started leaking coolant from the timing side. So I let the car sit for about an hour...