I don't drive it anymore and it just sits in my garage. Also tired of lusting over it :)

Sad day for me.But the the buyer seemed like a good guy and I hope he really enjoys the car and it treats him well. So if anyone sees a car with my front bumper driving around Topeka KS... its the guy that bought my little baby.

Spoonman explained it pretty well in Post #5.Also, here is a decent explanation: Engine balance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Balancing machine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have a question on the electrical harness for a Greddy Boost Gauge w/Peak hold.The wires are labeled: 1) RED (12V Power Source Line +) ... I assume constant power source 2) ORANGE (Ignition Power Source) .... I assume ACC line 3) WHITE (Parking Light Line) ... I assume parking break...

On mine, I drained the pan, then used some degreaser to clean the mating surface. Then put some RTV around it and new crush washers. Seals great. You can also consider "lapping" or sanding the down tube mating surface flat in case it has scratches that will allow oil to leak through.

If the seals are bad, then it is highly likely that the injectors need a good cleaning. If you send the injectors off for cleaning they'll return them with new seals.Check out: Advanced Fuel Injection RC Fuel InjectionI have used Advanced and FIC but all should give you good results.

Where are you having the work done if you don't mind me asking? I know Harvey's down in Norwalk over by Des Moines has a good reputation on 4g63's.

You know, eventually if you leave it long enough little gnomes come and fix it.Course, mine seem to just rust bolts.

Where at in Des Moines? I'm just north of Park over by Grey's Lake.

Please do elaborate.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/219222-1g-transmission-2g.htmlI am under the impression the transmission will have two less mounts than the 2G.

Harbor Freight has spring compressors for cheap. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices$12.99I used these when I replace my struts. Also, I do notice on my car that I get the same sensation you are describing when hitting bumps. I thought it was possibly from a...

I am thinking of developing a few car electronics in my spare time. Here are some of my ideas.Suspension G-force logging Telemetry (i.e. GPS position, 3d acceleration, throttle position, etc...) Logging Heads Up Projector.... not sure on the ease of installation None on this...

Maybe I miss read you but you stated:As mentioned previously you should never be able to go past 9-11 psi on the 16g if everything is in working order. Your wastegate is not hooked up or is not working properly if you have the issue you stated above.

you should connect a vacuum line that goes from a boost source (i.e. a nipple on your j-pipe or a T on the BOV line) to your waste gate . If you have that done already then your waste gate is faulty. The 16g wastegate will open at ~9 - 11 psi. and you shouldn't be moving enough air to be...

I personally would only buy used injectors if you plan on having them professionally cleaned and new seals added. So factor that into the cost of the injectors... you may find new is cheaper.

If you are getting DSMLink (ECM V3) then go with nothing less than 750's. The price is the same.

The BS is just a metal weight hanging in the engine. It has no effect other than combatting engine vibrations.

The balance shaft could have seized up.Cut the belt and remove it at a minimum.Otherwise you'll need to replace the balance shaft bearings or completely remove it all with a balance shaft elimination kit.

But the T25 will spool quicker, thus is quicker off the line, but a bum at anything past that in comparison to the 16g.I would say get the 16g regardless though.

I would change back to ngk plugs, the Iridiums are hit and miss for people and cost far more.Do all the maintence. I would recommend the 60k maintance: Change plugs, Change wires Change fuel filter Change belts (timing, balance shaft and accessories aswell as tensioner pulleys)...

I would recommend at a minimum porting the dump tube however to make it cleaner and smoother as well as larger. While this does nothing to add to spool or power, it helps to fight boost creep.

I like the look of the heat sinked hose.

I have been hearing a weird metalic grind periodically from my car... more like a chirp, particularly when I rev the engine while in gear. It sounds like it is coming from the driver side, but sometimes from the passanger side.I cannot find anything really loose that would make that...

I was wondering this aswell...Ebay has a few of the Quaife Knockoffs (OBX) that are being listed for the 2G GST...

Bahh.... its one of those days..:cry:

yes fluid will leak.... put rags and stuff under it. its a 5 to 10 minute job max.42 ft.lbs / 57 Nm of torque on the bolt.Edit...42 ft.lbs is on the 2G pump.

Or wire it into the harness for when the normal fan kicks on, the AC fan kicks in.

The only ones that are not ok to drive with out is the Timing belt and the WaterPump/Alternator belt. Power Steering is Optional aswell... but I wouldn't drive without it.

Better is an air compressor I think. A small 1 gallon pancake compressor can deliver 90 psi. And a large 60 gallon compressor can deilver 90 psi. Now if you hook an air jack hammer up to it that requires 20 cfm at 90 psi. How well will the pancake compressor keep up? Despite able to make...

Glad it worked out for you... now just get the peddles adjusted to the way you like it... enjoy!

I second the ISC suggestion aswell.

Visually inspect that all the wires are plugged into the MAF. Or borrow one from a friends 2G and try. Most likely its is a MASSIVE boost leak however.

What does the evo 9/8 flow... At pressure ranges?Edit:Nevermind. Found it here: RRE Instructions

Boost leak test.

In a nut shell.0.5) Soak the turbo bolts in PB Blaster for 3 nights prior to removal. It'll smoke like a fiend if you drive after spraying... but it is ok. 1) Jack the car up and put it on jack stands 1.5) Disconnect the battery 2) Drain the oil 3) Drain the coolant/radiator. 4) Remove the...

I would do the install myself. With the money you save you can purchase all the tools you would need. It'll take most of a day to do it yourself [assuming little experience and being a slow arse like myself]. And you'll have the satisfaction that you learned how to do this. It is not very...

TheGreatGSX, I would run the 14b at wastegate pressure personally until you have all the supporting work done. If you simply connect the wastegate line directly to the nipple on the J-Pipe ... if the j-pipe doesn't have one take it a local shop and have them weld one on ... most will do it for...

This has been posted MANY times on this site on how to install a 16G/14b turbo.quick google search: EVO 16G install 16G install in a 2GOn the cheap: 16G and RRE Do-it-yourself hacker/tweaker kit on a 2GI had my turbo rebuilt. I bought all new gaskets and studs. I bought an ETS...

I personally would get its balance checked. Spinning at 50,000+ RPMs a little unbalance has a dramatic effect.

14b installs is identical as a 16G install.I agree with dsm-onster. My research put me on the 14b path. I ordered a used 14b from this site. Got a turbo with a bent exhaust shaft [how, I have no idea, nor do I remember who sold it] for very cheap. Being the anal retentive prick that I am...

As everyone said, It should be fine. If you feel bad, change the oil and filter, inspect the plugs.

The HP is designed to maintain flow at higher pressure levels.Its the version boost happy DSM'ers should choose. Merry Christmas!

You cannot adjust the timing on the 97+ CAS

That is absolutely impossible. The clutch [hydraulic system] doesn't enter into the bell housing. It actuates a fork that sticks out of the bell housing. The fork moves the clutch.You have an air leak because a seal is defective. Air compresses, clutch fluid doesn't. Hence why the...

If you want to change it... then change it. Preventive maintenance doesn't hurt.If your going to do it, then do the 60k maintenance aswell..New Water Pump New Thermostat New Fuel Filter New Timing Belt New Balance Shaft Belt New Timing Belt Tensioner New Timing Bel Tensioner Pulley New...

I cannot tell you the boost pressure.... nor can I tell you how much YOUR car will actually make.I can however tell you a very broad range of power that the injectors can support under ideal conditions.Here is the formula to get the range:HP = ((flow[in cc/min] / 10.5) * (# of injectors *...

The distance is too small to be noticeable for the voltage drop. More is lost in the connectors than the wire distance. While I commend the OP for taking the effort to get as much voltage and current to the pump as possible the return on it will be very small.

95 cas signal is inverted and the firing order is different.... otherwise it will work just fine.

Fuel pump flow rates is not a linear drop. It is actually an exponential decay. As pressure rises, the fuel pump flows less. The way around that is to lower base fuel pressure. Which puts the flow range in a higher position. The problem then is that the injectors flow less. So you then need...

I some how lost my lifter tick by using Amsoil/Mobile 1 with a K&N oil cleaner for 20k miles and using Lucas full synthetic oil additive... and seafoaming the intake with a half can of sea foam in the oil for ~30 miles. Not sure which solved it... but they no longer tick.