ill check out oil leaks when i work on the car this week. i used plenty of anebotic (sp?) sealer when i reinstalled the oil pump. i primed the pump buy pullin the coil pack plug and turning the car over for awhile. front main was new when i installed it and i seated it tight against the oil pump.

oil pressure will slowly drop while coasting in gear. meaning even tho the cars rpms are at say 4k the oil pressure will drop from 50psi to 0psi and sit there untill i give it gas or push in the clutch then oil pressure will return. yes i know that the pressure will drop with rpms but this is...

pick-up is clear and it really cant be bent, its a 1/4" tude and only goes on one way. i'm gonna be changin the oil here soon so i hope that might help. When it first started i switched from 5w-30 to 10w-30, so im gonna try and go back to 5w-30 see if that helps. Always use moblie 1 full...

gauge is mechnical

not yet today i picked up a thermastate, and was hoping to get it in tomorrow and redo all the vac lines but i wont be able to till next weekend maybe.

what else might cause the loss of oil pressure?

alright so earilier last month after getting on the throttle pretty hard my car deicide it was going to randomly lose oil pressure while driving. Since then I've plastigaged the rod bearings, replaced rod bearings, rebuilt the oil pump, and replaced my oil pressure gauge. Everything seemed fine...

after driving home from work yesterday i used my scangage to see the live data and it said the ECU was reading 164*... thats low. I'll check everything i can today again to see what i can find. also the idle is normal all the time besides when coming to a stop or coasting with the clutch in...

sorry yes i ment the IAC not ISC (thought they were about the same thing) How do i check the VSS? never thought of that.

that was also checked. Think i figured out what might be causing the issue. I have a griffen Alumin radator i installed before winter. Well its doing toooo good of a job and the car never reaches its normal temp ( half way up the gauge). the highest it gets is maybe 3/8 the way up the gauge...

ISC was one of the sensors that was replaced. I'll have to check on how many steps is at tomorrow. Te problem is that i live in a very hilly area. i normally like coasting down most of the hills to conserve gas well everytime i push the clutch in the car goes right to 2000rpms and its annoying...

Ok the problem im having is when I'm coming to a stop i push the clutch in, doesn't mater at what RPM, the car will go to around 2000rpms untill im completely stopped, then idle normally. Does this everytime. Im lost on this issue. All the sensors are new and have been replaced, twice to make...

Oven cleaner... not joking. I put them on a peice of wood, spray them down with oven cleaner and let them sit over night. I then use a angle die grinder with a scotch brite pad bit and clean them up night a purdy. I've done this to 3 heads now and never had a problem.sorry after posting this...

if you paid $225 for a TPS you got raped too. i Paid $50 brand new for one.

alright today i jsut went ahead and changed the bearings with new ones, plastigaged them, everythings with in spec, new 10w-30 oil and new filter. Everything was great left the car warm up to normal temp, car ran quiter and smoother (might be in my head), and oil pressure was higher. Took it for...

only when it gets warm.

cant really figure out why it would be the gauge, its mechical so nothign could really go wrong with it could there be?

No i got an even bigger problem with my POS Talon. I finally got the thing back on the road and inspeted. Was driving to work yesterday, Got on it just becuase i could. Ran the car throw first, 2nd, then 3rd before i left off. Looked down at my oil pressure gauge and it said 10-0psi. I pushed...

nope sorry mine runs fine besides a random high idle. I think mine was on becuase i tried to to start my car without plugin the coil back in lol

i had a sticking throttle cable. So that was the major idle problem. But the car still has a random high idle when coming to a stop then it'll idle normal by itself.

i actually just had that code pop up today when i scanned my car. i have no clue what it is tho sorry

i've had this problem the last few months and i can not figure out the problem. My car will randomly have a high idle. If i rev the car sometimes the idle will return to normal but sometimes it wont. It comes and goes but seems to be getting worse. I've even removed the head, rebuilt it, replaed...

it's normal for the car to read 17:1+ when costing in gear above 2k?

Just turned my car back to stockish condition since the cams i had were messing with my ECU pretty bad and i didn't wanna send money on a piggyback. So today i just got everything bakc together and took her for a drive but the wideband is still reading off the chart when i leave off the gas in...

i had a ebay muffler on my last car. It lasted 6 months then all the packing burned out and started to come out.

for a ign switch i used the power antenna wire from my cd player the first time, 2nd time i used the cig lighter. Each time i ran the switch wire to a relay to turn them on. For light switch i just used the wire comin from the 4 way switch in the center vent area then to a relay

this is one that i made for my car:PS: im selling it lol

back of the hand works wonders

k the coil you got the frsit time was most likly the right one. 95 and some 96 420A engine use a different plug then the 97-99. the 95-96 use a flat pin style i believer and the others use round pins. Basicly all part stores and mitsu dealers only carry the round pin styles ### its just easier...

usaully the clutch wire is cut to install a remote starter for winter. Maybe the person before you wired the car so that it would remote start and defrost the back window at the same time. sunroof i wouldn't know lol

this is where i got mine Wheel Hub Centric Rings - buy wheel hub rings online from 1010tires.com in Aluminum ofcoarse

just pull the harness out of the way. it all disconnects from the engine and can be just layed over the fender. Its actually easier to install the engine from under the car becuase of the trans mount. I had a load leveler and it was still a pain becuse of that mount.

lol yeap i just dumped a bottle in. im gonna let it sit till tom.

chnaged my plugs and no change. Found out ti does it in all gears whenever i put the car under heavy load. im gonna try switchin Coilpacks and wires. Would bad gas cause this? The cars been sitting for 5 months with an open fuel line. it kinda reminds me of when you suck up water in your intake.

k so i got home today and regapped my plugs to 60 (the coil i have recommends 65). It seems to idle alot better, but its still doing it. Seemed to help the stuttering problem but it still happens. Im thinkin my plugs are shot. im gonna go get new ones tonight and see if that helps at all. Forgot...

At low RPMs i get a really bad shutter, buckin, and slight backfire. It starts like this, I pull out in first just fine, shift into 2nd and give it throttle and stutters, bucks alittle, and backfires and little. I leave off the throttle the get back on it slowly and it goes away some then stops...

found out what the problem was. the pickup magnaut on the cam was dirty as sin. quick cleaning and it started right up

K so i just recently pulled my motor, rebuilt the top end, redid the timing, and added Crane cams. Dropped the motor in and now i have no power getting to my coilpack but i am getting fuel. I used a multimeter and tested all the wires to the coil and none have power. From my searchin i found out...

well the axle isn't bolted to the trans its popped in with a snap ring. Jut place a pry bar between the axle cup and trans and pop it loose. Might take awhile but it will pop out. if your taking about the 32mm axle nut yea its a PITA to break losse but just use a big breaker bar and it'll come off

yes the trans mount (mounts to the steering rack) is the same but the bracket (mounts to the trans) is different. theres 3 bolts for each mount and bracket. the bracket has a habbit of breaking. I'd make a new one with stronger metal. its hard to find the 5 spd ones too.

no they are different.

yea its easier to just go under the car and reach up behind the block to get to them.

to remove the intake you need to unhook all the vac lines, plugs, throttle cable. Then the fuel line. ?Jack the car up and place on jack stands. Reach up behind the motor and unbolt the top portion of the intake. Then go back up top and remove it. Then unbolt the fuel rail and remove it. Go back...

just did this today. Just remove the 2 14mm bolt/pins from the back of the caliper. then either pull it up by hand or use the screw driver to pry it up. simple as that.

their expensive for what they are

i'm about to install my upgraded braking system. I'm going with GSX front/rear calipers, SS lines from RRE, EBC slotted/dimples rotors, and just Duralast Gold pads and then a GSX master cylinder to use the brakes to their full potential.

sorry i ment ot sat the cam gears grinded together. im seriously hopoin that theres no damage. lol start upgrading? the cams are a set of crane 14s and the gears are AEMs. if anything im just goin to port a head, 1mm os valves and some goodies.

Just got done doin my timing belt and retarded me forgot to tighten theone cam gear bolt. so i started the car and about 10 secs later i hear this CRUNCH!! and the car shut off. got out and saw the gear was off the exhuast cam. So what happen was the gear slide off the cam and then into the...

mine does it as well and all the sensors are brand new and i have no vac leaks. Its just normal for these engines. My oil guage reads pressure as soon as the car starts so i dont worry about it.

MSD coil packs are worthless they are basicly a stock pack but just red. Go to Howellautomotive.com and get a screamin Demon coil pack.