I think I might have fixed it. I've had a vibration in the lower gears too so I checked the motor mounts. The bolt holding the rear motor mount in place had fallen out. I jacked up the engine and replaced the bolt. Took it for a drive and the vibration was gone and the thunk seems to have...
Are you getting any error codes? Mine was doing something simlar and it turns out the TCU was the culprit. I'm just wondering if I might have bought the wrong replacement computer for my transmission.
Hey there, I checked the auto transmission forums and the only similar post I could find indicated I should get a new TCU, which I've already done. So forgive me if I missed the posting that answers my question.When the car shifts from 1st into 2nd there's this thunk. It feels like the...
On a 98 you'll need to drop the engine. I just used two socket wrenches going in different directions . Used one to hold the unit steady while loosening the other bolts. Then loosened the last the same way.
The first poster is right. Probably the alternator but the battery might not be able to hold a charge. My batteries usually last 2 years and then die quickly so it could be the battery. The battery is easier to remove so test that first.
A new transmission will cost you around $2000. The flush, not so much. Mine was doing the same thing a few years ago and I lost the transmission. Take it to a competent mechanic, not a national chain, and have them take a look at it while they do the flush. My problem turned out to have been...
That's pretty much what I did. Be careful making cuts for the console. It's always easier to make a tuck or cut after the installation than making the wrong one ahead of time.
I have a Ford Explorer and the thermostat on that has a burp hole, basically it comes with a hole drilled in it. From what I read drilling a hole in a thermostat is not a problem. It might be easier to ask the parts guy if they have one that will fit that already has the burp hole.Also...
Which would be better to get?The whole assembly:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-IGNITION-SWITCH-LOCK-KEY-97_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33692QQihZ013QQitemZ230029111630QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohostingor just the switch...
I have my fob and a house key so not very heavy. It doesn't make a difference if use one of the spare keys by itself or the original on the ring with the fob and house key.
I've had this going on for 3 years but since I'm selling the car I'd like it fixed before I sell it. On my 98 Spyder I can start the car with no problem. I put the key in the ignition, turn it, and the car starts right away. Anyone else fails miserably when they try. Mechanics can't start...
Or is he honest and I'm an ignorant jerk?I had a timing belt break. Ended up with some bent valves so I gave the garage the go ahead to fix it. They sent the head off to be machined, installed some new valves and reset the ones that weren't bent. I got the car back and it's burning oil...
Does anyone know if the inserts advertised for the 98 Eclipse FWD 2.0L are the same as the ones on the 2.4L engine in the Spyder? I need a rear mount and I'd hate to throw more good money away.
Thanks, that helps a ton. It got me thinking though. When the car died I wasn't sure what happened and tried to start it a few times. Would those attempts to start the car have caused any additional damage? When I got the belt cover off the timing belt was slack so I'm guessing neither of...
Thanks for the info. I've been sick a few days and haven't been able to work on the car. On Sunday I found the place where I thought the screwdriver head should go but it will only go in 1.25 inches. It presses against the oil pump shaft, you can feel the movement through the screwdriver...
My timing belt broke Thursday night, two days before I was going to have it replaced. It's a good reminder for the future, 60,000 miles and 64,000 miles aren't the same, get it replaced before 60,000, not after.The good news is that I was going about 10mph and my foot was on the brake...
My Haynes was messed up too, no mention of dropping the engine. Fortunately I'd helped my dad change the mounts a few months earlier so I knew what to do. Just lower the engine a few inches and you should be fine.
Has anyone tried this yet? The way things are going I think this might be the only way to stop my leaking top problems. I remember the old early 60's ford that folded into the trunk, much like the early 3000 convertible, and would like to know if anyone has done anything similar with their...
I've used the scothguarding but have had no luck with that. Replaced the rails and it still leaks like a 5 week old cocker spaniel after a bowl of water. I'll try the hinges tonight, if it ever stops raining.:(
Yeah, so much for Japanese engineers being design masters. I've replaced my weatherstripping, got it for about $180, and has made little difference. There's a couple spots where I'm going to put some black caulking in place up front which has helped in the past. but the back end below the...
Mine are grey cloth right now, and pretty torn up thanks to my dog. I can go with black or grey leather. I was able to get a black leather back seat but I might end up selling that if I can get an entire grey interior set.
Searched the forum and didn't have any luck finding a previous thread so I apologize if this has been covered. I need a new carpet for my 98 Spyder Non-Turbo. All the online carpet places have replacements for coupes only. Can anyone point me to a site that sells them for the convertible as...
Does anyone know the part number for the TCM for a 98 Spyder GS with the 2.4L engine and an automatic transmission. I'm looking for a used one and am having difficulty telling what will work with my car and what won't. The two I have so far that might be it are MR483685 and MD762042. Any help...