Unfortunately my Tuners t-shirt died years ago and the hoodie I still have would have killed anyone wearing it from heat exhaustion. HahaI'll be sure to bring the hoodie next year and hang it from the canopy.Video of the 11.90 pass:

Been attending since 2007 and the return of Max Effort prompted me to compete for the first time. Bought this '99 GS-T in March with the sole intent to autoX with my family for the year. Car came with lots of problems like RTV on injector seals and cork TB gaskets... Was on a 100% eBay 16g and...

Come hang!

Come hang out and talk some shop!

Dropping the stock fuel tank, filter and various items to install fuel cell and supporting systems.Come join and talk trash!Channel link: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnPXrv ... sWOlqh24Sw

If you're interested, or just bored, I regularly live-stream when in the garage.Please come hang out and feel free to grief me!All my content is pro-bono just for fun.Thanks!

Probably ended up being a 12 point socket rather than a 6 point? Good to hear you got it off.All shafts have that flat spot on the end of the shaft. It is not specifically for balancing, it is there to facilitate removal of the nut that holds the assembly together.

There is a flat spot on the hot side. Using a vice or vice grips you should be able to hold it sufficiently to take the nut off of the compressor wheel.

The turbine is usually part of the shaft, the compressor wheel comes off and the shaft is pulled out of the housing. The nut holding the compressor wheel on is indeed reverse threaded.

I know of another car that ran 50 psi and didn't even have an intercooler. The owner's name was John Shepherd. He didn't just use meth to cool the intake charge, he burned it and ran 7's.

So it probably does have more surface area than MOST other intercoolers. I bet my 4" GReddy core had close to the same surface area though. Other than WOW factor using this on your car is just not a wise venture.

What is in reach? The hood will not close correctly with that in your car. Take some measurements and calculate the surface area of that thing. Yes it has huge frontal area but it is what 1.25" thick? This is why most intercoolers on our cars are 2.5" to 4" thick. Smaller frontal area but same...

2300lb AWD DSM sounds to me like tube chassis, lexan and carbon fiber. No way this can be achieved on an OE 1g chassis. MAYBE with a carbon fiber/tin interior and back/front halfed tube chassis. But that would not constitue an OE chassis....

Is all good man! If the 1.6 gives up the ghost there will be a 2.0 waiting to go right in. I have wanted to play with a 1.6 for a while and this provides the best opportunity.

It is a NA 4g61. It is clean on the outside but upon removing the carpet for cleaning I found this:I will be cutting this rot out and replacing it with new material.I traded my '93 Mazda MX3 which had 226,000 miles on it and paid $750 for this Summit. But the Summit came with a...

I apologize, I did not completely read your post. Being at work I had to quickly read and reply. LOL The master cylinder would probably work. You might have to use the rod from the 2g but I bet the width of the flange that bolts to the booster is the same.

Keep in mind the brake booster is on the passenger's side of the engine bay. The rod is actuated by a huge bar that runs under the dash. You can make almost any brake booster fit with a drill and a dremel. For example; I put a manual(no booster) master cylinder from a Mustang on my old Avenger.

Already know all about Mr. Jason and his cars. Thank you for the tip though. Inspiration will come from the two previous Colts I have owned and bastardized.

Thanks guys. A friend of mine originally found it here in Cincy and it has been owned by two other members of the Colt forum. It is very clean and has only 115,000 miles on it. The plan is to leave it 4g61 but hang a 16g with supporting mods and AWD swap it with a 3 bolt LSD. I have multiples of...

Just got this on Saturday. Makes me cheese every time I see it. Cannot wait to begin the swap madness.

If $50 is going to make or break your build then you have bigger problems than needing to know if a single 255 intank will supply 500whp. With fuel supply it is always best to have more than you need.

If you have two already installed why bother removing one? I would leave both of them in even if you are using a 14b on a stock engine. The parts have been purchased and the work is done.

It was on a RB26 something in this area, could have been a Skyline, may have been a swapped 240sx.The turbine housing has the Mitsubishi symbol and the numbers 49195-31510. The compressor housing has the numbers 49187-00920 D22246. The ID and EXD measurements are spot on for a MHI 25g but...

Nope. Just sharing my acquisition with the world.Inducer measures 60.5mm and exducer measures 77.95mm. For whatever reason I did not measure the turbine. The numbers found on the compressor housing and turbine housing check out too. I cannot wait to get this thing on the Galant.

Within spec for a used journal bearing turbo. Zero in-out and slight up-down wiggle.

Just bought this thing yesterday.Twin scroll MHI 25g. 4" compressor inlet, 2.5" compressor outlet, 3" turbine outlet.

You can easily shift a transmission when the engine is not running regardless of whether the clutch is engaged or not.To pull fluid through the system back to the slave you will have to perform a bleeding procedure to remove all of the air from the master cylinder, clutch lines and slave...

My Galant had been put through this abuse before I acquired it. When I re-installed the two braces I had difficulty making the requisite mounting holes align correctly.My previous AWD swapped Colt did not have the front/rear braces but it did have a tubular lower support up front welded to...

But the Comp Turbos are not priced higher than a comparable Garrett. The vendor that I originally found selling the Comp Turbos has the Garretts priced higher. It is only $50 or so higher but definitely not 30 - 50%.Even if the majority of the design is a copy of existing technology the...

What was the final result of all this?I noticed the link for Comp Turbos on MAP's site and wanted to look into the "Comp" brand itself.

If you plan on moving past the 16g go ahead and get the SMIM. It may not be ideal for what you have now but in the future in may be just what you need. Especially if you are getting a good deal on one...

AH no way!A guy from the Colt forums said he had PM'd you and was willing to pay shipping on them...Oh well. Good news is good news. Thanks man.

Alright man! Good work Chris!Who got the t-shirt?

What is the status of this? Is the afforementioned company going to be producing the control arms?

It may be a 12mm with the 14mm head. Any bolt that has the correct thread pitch and is not too terribly long will suffice. It may take a little experimenting to find the right bolt.

Does the '94 have a bolt that holds the DP to the frame and not the block like a 1Ga?If you are looking for the bolt that holds the DP to the block then it may be something like a 10mm X 1.25 or 1.5 and should have a 12mm six sided head. I am not positive on those bolt dimensions. You could...

Boom goes the correct dynamite...Turbine Housing Inlet Gasket (DSM) - Modern Automotive PerformanceI apologize again for the misinformation in the first reply.

So what was the final result? Is there going to be a final update or blog?

Good job and keep tearing it up guys!

I am very glad to see you are back on the trail!

What was the solution for the broken control arm?

So it only does it while you are rolling? If that is true then you have a driveline problem. Probably a CV.

According to the OP his compression is only 90-95 psi. If the compression test was performed accurately then this is his problem. He needs to be chasing down reasons for such low compression such as blown head gasket, incorrect cam timing, stretched head bolts and etc.

Yeah. The "T". Get the marks on the crank pulley on the "T" then check your cam timing.

Not to be a smart ass but finding the keys is your fix. If Ralliart and Mitsu Australia told you no dice then it is no dice. Good luck.

I just pulled up some pictures and yes it is the "T" mark.

Where ever the mark indicating BTDC is. I have not had to look in a while so honestly I cannot remember exactly what it looks like.

It has probably been refurbished or inspected by a company that put a warranty on their work as that paint is meant to detect when someone messes with the ECU. Was there a tape or seal on the outside that you had to cut to get it open?

Cam timing is dead on in relation to what? The timing belt could have skipped down on the crank but the cams would still line up with each other. Rotate the crank pulley so that your notch is at BTDC and then check your cam marks.

That is normal. I would be looking for a blown headgasket, skipped timing belt, anything that can cause your compression to be that low. If you have a timing light you can easily check the timing. Check and see if you have oil in your coolant.