can i use manley springs with the stock retainers? are there any advantages to the ti retainers other than being lighter. i am looking to upgrade valvesprings and just wondering if the stock retainers are fine rather than spending the extra $150. i plan on using ffwd 272's if that matters.
currently i have about 14in. vacuum readings at idle and my car stalls switching gears at low speeds and coming to a stop. I have fixed all boost leaks and checked the isc motor. could a jumped timing belt be causing me to show low vacuum readings? the rpm's at idle also are not very steady and...
I wouldn't think so. Add all of the accessories, the two turbos, fmic and piping and I'd bet that the LS1 is very close in weight.Thanks for the info Coup. I will be giving him a call in the next couple of days.
Nice Job!
I have been researching doing this for a while also. Are you using the RC subframe, whole kit or what? I'm trying to decide whether I want to fab the subframe myself, or if the RC subframe is any good I might as well get that one.
Edit- nevermind I see what looks to be the RC...
Yes, I made sure the a/f ratios were up to par and wasn't drowning the engine in fuel. Everything is fine now after 1,000 miles. Compression came up on #2 and all cylinders are within 3-4 psi across the board. Readings are now 150 across dead cold and 170's across warm.
This is actually one of...
The DNP has a divided flange and the wastegate is connected to both sides of the collector.
The T4 PTE turbos have a 3'' vband outlet. I doubt the FP o2 housing would fit. Your going to have to have someone make you a downpipe.
You remove the springs and put the correct sized shim/washer on the spring seat, thus increasing spring pressure.
Anyway, I spun my 280's to 8500rpm today with the manley valvetrain without a problem.
I run a bosch 044 in tank without a filter. I also use all -8an fittings and have not had a problem. If I knew about this pre-filter before I put it in I probably would have used it.
If you look at the inlet of the bosch pump you can see that it has a built in filter and should work fine...
If the BC springs are good to 10k with the 280's I shouldn't have a problem. I think the manley's have slightly more spring pressure than the BC's. I was going to call the machine shop who is o-ringing my head and have them shimmed, but maybe I'll just leave them alone.
Just picked up a set of 280's from MAPerformance. Ordered on the 12th in the afternoon, received them Saturday morning the 14th. Talk about quick shipping!
I'll be installing them this week once I get my head back and can post another idle clip if anyone wants to hear it.
My only concern is if...
The valves are fine. I had this head on my last engine and everything was fine. Valve job was done about 2,000 miles ago.
I guess i'm just going to have to wait and see if it improves. Even if it doesn't, i'll just wait till winter time to re-ring #2 anyway.
I recently assembled this engine and it currently has about 70 miles on it. I used the mototune break in method with a T61 at 17psi.
Should I be worried about #2 compression being low or wait and put some more miles on it and see if it improves? The engine doesn't smoke at all and runs perfect...
DKS 272's have quite a lumpy idle to them. I can't really give you any info on the power difference as I was using them with a 14b, but I did lose some lowend which was to be expected. I'll see how they work here in the next couple days with the new T61.:thumb:
Don't waste your money on the RFL bov. The mounting flange is a joke, using grub screws to hold it in place. I ran one for a day and it leaked and was way too loud. Stick with the Tial.
Why? What's wrong with your 2g mas? Don't forget when using the maft setup with V2 your going to want to have a WBo2 or map sensor to calibrate it correctly.
That may be true but how much is it gonna cost you to make that 800hp? For the money spent on bolt-on parts for the stock short block supra you could build a 1,000hp sbc.
The most bang for your buck would most definately be the small block chevy in any variety (289, 302, 327, 350, 383, etc.) They all use the same block.
But for $10k you may be able to build a 600ci big block.
I'm currently building a 302 chevy that should be good to rev to 9k-10k.
I really don't see the point in wasting so much money on stronger axles unless your making some serious torque. You can get new reman axles for under $100 a pair with a lifetime warranty.
Heres my problem.
I am currently assembling my engine and have ran into a problem.
I am using standard oem mitsu bearings with a polished unturned crank.
My main clearances are between .0025-.003 when the suggested clearances are .0008-.0016.
My main journals on my crank read between...
Or you could just sell your turbonetics manifold and pick up this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rev-Hard-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Talon-Turbo-Manifold-4G6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ009QQitemZ190080727141QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I just received mine from him this week.
I cannot decide on what headgasket setup to use. The block is a 4g63 bored .040 over. I put a stock mitsu composite on the block and it looks as if the bore is slightly too large for the headgasket as it hangs over the cylinder bore a little. I will be running a 65lb. min. turbo at around 30psi...
Yes they do make a performance upgrade outer tie rod. They are called polygraphite tie rods and I have them on my car. I believe I bought them out of a catalog called PST but I can't remember. They sell a kit for the 1g dsm that includes polygraphite tie rods, ball joints, control arm and sway...
Please explain...
It does just as Talesin says. Although the reduction in throw will not be dramatically different and I'm not sure if it is even worth the effort, it will decrease the throw.
Mine does the same thing. It's just the aeromotive fpr. At first I found it strange and I pulled the sending unit to check the oring on the pump but that was just a waste of time.
Like stated above, if it is ported correctly it shouldn't creep. However, going external is still the best route for rock solid boost control.
The easiest and cheapest way to do this would be to weld the internal flapper shut, send your manifold to slowboy and have a 38mm wastegate flange...
I wouldn't bother with the crower springs as they are only a slight increase in spring pressure over stock. I believe the manley springs have the highest spring seat pressure of any single spring valvespring