91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST - Turbo / Upgraded / 5 Speed

Bump.

Just recently upgraed my fuel system (650's, 255, Aero FPR) and I'm looking to get it all dialed in. I'm running a 16g and don't really plan on going any further with the mods. Would a maft setup be substantial enough for tuning? I've considered going with just a maft, or just a neo afc. I don't...

Having some issues after my fuel system upgrade. I installed a 255 and some 650's, as well as a bolt on AFPR, the aero style that bolts on to the fuel rail. My MAFT is on it's way so I can dial everything in, but at this point the car wants to stutter and buck at 4,000rpm. It feels like fuel...

I checked through the inventory they have listed but I really wasn't able to find just the regulator. As hard as the fuel rail package they have for sale is to resist, I'm not looking to drop $600.

I've been able to find a few on eBay motors for 2g's. Just a standard OBX regulator which is all I'm really after. There's no major differences between the 1G and 2G fuel rails that I'm forgetting, is there? Here's what I managed to dig up.Regulator - OBX

I'm after the one that works with the factory fuel rail. I have one already, however the vacuum fitting was knocked loose and it's creating a pretty severe boost leak now, so I'm looking to replace it.

I've been searching all day for the AFPR's that are bolt on to the DSM fuel rails, but I've not been having much luck. I was hoping someone lurking around the boards would know of a vendor that still sells these. Any help would be great. Thanks again.

Do you have an afpr? What are your plugs gapped at? Your vehicle info isn't filled in, or at least not showing up on my phone, so I can't be much more specific, but that's where I would start. Start with the basics and narrow down, then let us know what you come up with.

The 50mm did not work for me on either of my DSM's. 60mm is the way to go.

On a side note, I noticed today that after the car warms up the boost leak seems to be more significant, leading me to believe that it's the manifold gasket that's leaking. I guess it had to be replaced sooner or later.

My spacers are already siliconed on. The grommets are brand new as well. I'm only pressurizing to 10 psi, but I built a manual BL tester so I just pressurize it with a hand pump and the results are immediately noticeable. I think I'm going to end up taking the intake manifold off, I was dreading...

My bad. They don't have any brackets listed on the website for a 2G, but if you check their Facebook out and ask they normally have them in stock. The guy mainly deals with DSMs.Welcome to Facebook - Log In, Sign Up or Learn More

Then the relay would be the place to start. Sounds like you might have blown more than one, too. Let me know what you find.

No. The coolant temperature sensor would not cause a problem with the fuel injectors.

Sounds like a relay or fuse. Did you ground anything out on accident during your install? Start from there.

I'm thinking a boost leak either a, between the intake manifold and throttle body or b, between the intake manifold and the head. Those tend to be the significant and big enough leaks to cause the surge while driving.

Do you have airflow at all? Is it just the heater or the heater and the a/c? Check the basics first. Did you knot any coolant lines during the install? Do you even have sufficient coolant levels? Are your fuses and relays good?

Had a leak in the same spot. Your answer may not be as simple as mine, but I took a cap full of the fluid leaking and put a match to it. Power steering fluid, not flammable. Oil, flammable. Just a thought.

Intake bolts are torqued to specs. Don't want to chance breaking them. That's not a headache I want to deal with.

I use my 12v constant from my cigarette lighter. But there are others. Check out the electrical section on VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered QuestionsThey all tend to sound different. Mine is fairly loud, but I've taken the intake off and check everything for shaft play and there's...

It's been awhile since I've toyed with DSMLink, but I had similar issues with my old 2g and the CAS. I had the option to adjust the car for the sensor via DSMLink and that resolved my issues. Not sure if the new versions have the same interface, but if so that would be a good place to start.

Boost leak test, ftw.

Be careful with the threads. From what little experience I do have with the glowshift gauges the adapters and fittings seem to be somewhat cheap. Don't get yourself in a bind trying to force something that doesn't belong. Good luck, though.

That was my first thought, that maybe the belt jumped a tooth or two. But I don't believe the timing being off would cause all four injectors to spray simultaneously.

You could attempt to ground the sensor itself. I'm not too familiar with the glowshift oil pressure gauges, I like my autometer series. A little google research may be in order.

Glowshift does not send the required accessories to make all of their gauges work when they ship them. In order to make the oil pressure gauge function you will need the adapter I linked below. The adapter will replace the stock unit. The thread pattern is 1/8" NPT, but I didn't see that listed...

I've seen a nightmarish fuel pressure problem that caused this before. But I don't see any fuel systems upgrades that could lead to that kind of problem that he was having. I would start by checking out the resistor pack and make sure you have no issues there.As far as an ISC, that is the...

Straight to the point, I finished boost leak testing my car late last night, and found that I had two significant leaks, one being where my boost gauge was tapped in as the t-fitting wasn't big enough to seal, and a second coming from the injector #3 (counting from left to right from the CAS)...

If he can't find them, here's a link. I got mine within a week, and used them for my BOSS double din dvd player. Worked like a charm.Interior Parts :: 1G Eclipse/Talon Parts :: Interior :: 90-94 Eclipse Talon Laser Radio Brackets 1g 4g63 - Miller Import Parts

ttt.

I'll take the brackets. Text me with a price. 5598179231

Bump.

I have the following for sale. Pics available on request. Prices are without shipping. Pickup is also welcome, I'm about 10 minutes south of Hanford on the naval base.- 2x 1G manifolds. No cracks, low mileage. Good shape. - $40 each - OEM starter. Bought it used, ending up buying a new one...

I'm looking for the factory mounting brackets and bolts for the stock 1G radio if you have them. Let me know if so, and how much you're looking to get.

Awesome, thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.

Looking to get some input on some in dash dvd players for 1G's. Most shops around here are selling decent ones at around $200-$300 so I figured why not, however I have not had too much lucking finding any information on mounting brackets and wiring harnesses or personal testimony from people...

bump. anything?

Looking for some nice 1st gens. Must be five speed, and nothing that's been beat to hell or needs any major work. Done my share of knucklebusting on my 2g, don't want to have to get too excessive with this. Must be 5 speed. Modified is prefered but not required. Have 3k cash in hand ready to...

I moved the sprayer over and use it on my FMIC, and I don't run into any heat soaking issues anymore. I eventually invested in a Snow stage 2 kit, though. Can't beat the results for the price.

What other supporting fuel mods are you running? I don't see any kind of AFPR or aftermarket fuel pump listed, just the 1200 injectors.

I live on base in Lemoore. Sold my 2g, but probably buying a first gen this weekend just to get back in the game. I can probably make the meet if that's alright with everyone.

Start with the basics. Boost leak test. If that doesn't work, try turning your boost down and see if the problem persists. Then go from there.

I was just talking about this in another thread. Most people just reroute the lines leading to the rear windshield wiper nozzle and lead it to a specific point spray the intercooler with water or whatever solution you fill the tank with. That way you can still use the original tank for the...

Focus on boost leaks before you start looking at your timing. How many miles did you put on the car after you had the head off? Enough for the head gasket to seal up? Did you revisit the studs and tighten them? You would probably notice if it wasn't sealed before 3k, but it could still be a...

I just got rid of a supra side mount. I liked the intercooler, personally. The install wasn't nearly as bad as I anticipated either. The issue I ran into was the heat soaking because of my location. I'm in the Fresno, CA area so the temperatures can climb and stay in the triple digits for days...

I'm in the middle of switching my oil feed to the head. Can anyone tell me if the banjo bolt that threads into the cylinder head is a 10mm or 12mm banjo? Also, what size bolt is needed for the oil filter housing once the feed line is removed?

I just finished with my HX35 on my car, and there are a few little issues I have to deal with. One of being the constant burning of oil. I was advised for the HX35 to have a minimum of 10psi at idle, 30 under load, and no more than 75psi at any time. Yet, my car consistantly seems to smoke...

Here's my situation. I'm running my HX35 off of the oil filter housing with the existing stainless steel lines that were on the car. They're -4AN with an Earls in-line oil filter in the middle and a SBR -4AN restrictor in the inlet of the turbo. I also have no balance shafts. Yet, my gauge reads...

Double check that middle exhaust manifold stud in the bottom row. Even if you don't see any oil outside the manifold. I had that happen with me, and it just ended up leaking the oil into the manifold instead of onto the head itself. Took me a little while to figure out what was going on.