well since you say youll keep it forever(which rarely happens) id go with whichever one has the most hp potential and reliability in the long runme personaly id go with whichever one was more reliable at a very high hp level even if you dont take it to its max potentialtake me for...
whats the injector duty on your injectors now? if you dont max them out every day i agree with highpsi92gst and canadiantsi just save until you can get both the wait will suck but waiting will save $$$ on geting it tuned for the t25 and then having to retune for the 16g when you get it
im new to dsms but not turbos and a good manual boost controller is really a great bang for the buck if you have a aftermarket boost gauge and the car has enough mods to support however much boost you will be adding :thumb:
also post current offset and the tire size and brand on the 18si read you have 215/45/17 Kumho Ecsta but their are 10 types of ecsta(which ones do u have)
the way i read it only the tip is 5 inch its probably a 2.5 or 3.0 inch exaustwhen you say your looking for a silencer you mean you need a muffler i dont know how loud a airmass muffler is so i cant make a recamendationis your airmass straight through or baffled
try wireing the rear set in series so you not puting such a load on the amp and if you have a componet set put it on full if its got a good midrange but if it sounds distorted either get a better mid or a inline crossover so the mid doesnt try to play lower than it should or set it to hi as a...
well you kinda answered your own question just find the power and ground and which one turns the lights on when you apply the power wire to it and hook it upas for the four wires im guessing but ill say one is a acc. power(a power wire that only works when 1 the lights are on or 2 the key is...
tell them to give you a tracking number or youll have your card provider put a hold on the paymentif you get a tracking number id say its ok but if not then id givem a ear full
im pretty new to dsms but not turbos and as most people will tell you recirculated is the way to go for drivabilityi have a neighbor with a eclipse that used to be vented and he is now recirculated you can still hear it but not from a block away
you can mix the ohm loads on the amp but if you did six speakers you probably put to much of a load on the amp and need to wire atlest one pair in series so your amp will work without cuting out on you if you give me more info i can help you out1 number of speakers and each speakers ohm...
afrter finding out how much the supras intercooler is i think that would be a pretty good way to go for the price if you think youll stay within its hp range for a while :thumb:
ill just say electrical is the way to go no matter whative had one of those crap plastic lines break in the car behind the gauge and got a floor board full of 10w30 not only did i have to buy new copper line and oil i had to buy a crap load of shop towls to soak up the oil so i could drive...
whats the price difference between a supra smic and a decent fmici would look at the diffence if you decided to upgrade to more hp on down the road even if you say you wont now it could happen so why not buy something you know you wont need to replace depending on price difference...
both those are possibilitiesthe car i just bought wont stay runing unless its has some throttle input so i losened the two bolts that hold the throttle cabel and adjusted the rpm till it would stay running that way so i could see if it ran and shifted or it was going to the junkyard(i work...
if you have any experiance with bending oil,fuel,or brake line just make it yourself or meassure it and order some stainless braided linei usually dont buy used lines of any type just because its as old as whats already broken
its possible the kink is slowing the flow and building pressure behind it but even if it isnt building pressure behind it id get the kink out of the line because it is restricting flow
i think its just the pistons and injectors and computer besides the actual turbo related partsive only been here a week or so so dont hold me too it their may be more
tell ya what to put it as simply as possible does the computer take any kind of boost reference to make any adjustments to the air fuel ratio or the timingif yes ill get a non turbo computerif it only adjusts by what the maf tells it i think ill be ok
i really doubt it will be slow the only thing stock on it will be the crank and block everything else will be aftermarket rods, high comp pistons, ported head, cams, titanium springs and retainers, stainless valves, new intake and throttle body, ect ,ect same for the trans almost nothing inside...
im hopeing thats what will happen like for instance if the turbo went bad the computer could still functionso i guess the easiest way to find out is to remove the pice of intake that goes to the throttle body and run it up the road a few times and go from thereif anyone else has any...
thanks for the help but hopefully ill get a definate from someone here on weither or not the computer will have any problemsas for the compression ill just add some pistons its got 136k on it so it probably needs a lil tlc on the inside anywaysBTW im buying this off a impound lot so i...
how hard will it be to go from turbo to NA on a 92 lasercan i just put a NA header on and plug the oil lines or is the computer going to lean the A/F ratio out with no boost coming into the motorwhats the factory hp rating of this motor with the turbodoes the turbo head flow...