ok my alternator belt came off and my battery died instantly, i want to put it back on track but im having trouble, do i just unbolt that thing right above the alternator? I think its the power steering pump. or do i go up from under the car to put it back on, it just slipped off the pully...
well the handle lost connection with the wire latch thing inside the door, so the handle moves in and out.... so i took off my door handle (with the window still up) and i cant for the life of me get in behind that door handle to take that screw out from the back... is there still another layer...
ok my profile mods are current. im running 15psi on evo3 16g with 450s and 190lph fuel pumpi log and tune and my hi-throttle map on my safc is nothing but leaning it out... even though my timing advance is nice (drops to 7 at peak torque and goes up to 17+)i figured increasing boost...
hey guys, upped it back to 16 psi and all i needed was a retune, as the fmic flows alot more than the smic, wasnt boosting too high just needed a new tune, i guess my current tune was "on the edge" and that fmic sent me over the edge.. its just that i assumed more air flow meant more fuel, and i...
ok i turned the boost down to 13psi and without tuning did this log so i can kinda start back from scratch, its way off as my timing is horrible, this is only pasting the WOT part of the log, and again i didnt tune it for the 13psi just so i wont mess completely up cause obviously i got off on...
ok now this has become more of a tuning situation i guess.... im wanting to go as lean as possible at WOT with as good of a timing advance as i can get without knocking (any pull in timing at all = bad) right?i know o2 voltages are more of a guide and i shouldnt rely on them so i watch...
well the two hoses connecting to my intake pipe are just hanging, i didnt hook them back up, is that a prob...i guess i had my 15psi tune maxed out and upping it to 16 was the straw that broke the camels back, i turned it back down and am re-evaluating my tune with the fmic, and looking for...
well the GM MAF is the last component in my intake tract, i assumed whatever went through there would be measured and be the exact air going through the engine even if some leaked out in my fmic pipingi guess steve said it when he said installing an fmic could cause me to have to lean it...
i had 15psi with 450s, i put on a johnny racecar fmic with DIY piping, i leaned it out and it runs fine and i have it at 16psi, but i just figured id be adding fuel once i upped it to 16 and added the short route piping... i mean the car is running fine, only thing diff is i had to take off the...
installed the fmic and ran 15-16lb on evo III... before it wouldnt hit fuel cut,,, but once the front mount went on BAM like a wall, so i had to take even more fuel out to get it not to backfire like that.....i figured with a front mount and more air flow id be adding fuel? why did i have...
ok all the turbo 2gs ive rode in were a little hesitant to get into reverse... but since my car sat for two weeks and i did a evo III swap... i got the p0335 crankshaft sensor CEL code,, but i cleared it and it stayed gone,, but my car is REALLLLY hesitant to go into reverse now... the second it...
well the smoke is from the burning pb blaster i had to use, i got a little oil feed line leak but its fixable ... main problem is i dont think ive crankwalked... i did push the car across the yard and had to let it run back and forth to get momentum to get it on my concrete pad but i doubt that...
my t-25 broke after sucking up some rubber, well i got an evo3 16g turbo and installed it a week later, now im getting the crankshaft angle error code p0335.... i searched but didnt get an exact answer. anyone know what i should do? thanks....
ok so i installed a new ported evo 3 16g with 34mm flapper, fmic with short route piping, and 660cc injectorsquestion is: How much boost should i be looking at max on pump gas? the turbo is "capable of alot" so i want to know what max psi i can use with my mods as i dont know how to figure...
ok im going down the road and ihear a loud CRUNCH CRUNCH and other grinding, and i pull over and pull my intake to see the rubber spacer coupling on the inlet of my t25 (the stock piece that the intake pipe goes over to fill the empty space) had came off the inlet housing and went through my...
i did a compression test and the results were as follows
160-145-145-160that was with holding the key turned over for about 5 seconds or sowell dad said i was trying to make it read wrong and to do it again cause i "couldnt have a leak" so i held it for about 10 or so seconds and then...
This being my first turbo car, it just stood out at me. But i bought a car that was hiding alot of problems (broken harmonic balancer, oil coming out of valve cover, fuel pump not mounted with the bolts, alot of stripped bolts)after fixing what seems to be alot of the problems, ive always...
my high throttle settings are zeroed out on the afc, i was going to use my WOT dial on my maft and lean it out a click or two and do another run, then compensate on the afci figured according to the o2 readings that i was rich, but needed a second opinion as most people advise against...
ok so i tuned my lo throttle, and im running fine, (ltft and stfts are both 0 if not +1 or -1)i did a WOT pull in 2nd gear and logged it, and my timing looks good to me but my plugs have gone from carbon deposited with white tips, to carbon deposited with yellow tipsi think i need to...
i went ahead and ordered the dejon tools IP, ill get some cheap 3" cone filter and put on it....whats a good place to buy hose clamps larger than 2 3/4" (not tbolt clamps, the cheap kind with the teeth)
ok i installed the blowthrough setup on my car, i wasnt able to keep my stock mas box on there for some reason, just everything wouldnt fit in there at once. so i took my stock mas off, is there a way to hook up a cone filter to the intake pipe without the mas box in there? i had a K&N cone...
a friend of mine wrecked his gst, i wanted his evo III and found out it was the EVO III GT china crap for turbo.. my question is, since his car is wrecked he wants to sell it for cheap will it be worth buying if i got a REAL Evo III 16g rebuild kit for it?
i wouldnt expect much from just a fmic set up, especially not 20-30whpi got my safc II from a place on ebay for 219$ and it works great, so get that and a logger and tune with those injectors and your set
just recirculate, i have the HKS SSQV BOV and im recirculating, and its still loud enough to bother me, and scare other cars off the road! i vented once thinking it would be cool, well i just got annoyed with the loud sound and recirculated again.
ok here is a venting break down for youyour mas air flow sensor (mas) measures your air as it comes in your intake, and when you shift your BOV lets that air out that has already been measured, so it never makes it inside the engine and you run rich during your shift (more fuel than air)...
i dont know alot about the 2.0 non turbos but i think all it lacks that the turbo engine had was the oil squirters, high compression pistons, injectors, manifolds etc... (correct me if im wrong) but i would say it would be a waste
if it doesnt fit your pulley would prolly not spin straight and it might be knocking up against the timing cover. if u dont hear it knocking against it i wouldnt worry, but i dont know anything about 6bolts. if it works it works lol!
i upped the boost to 15. i can hit it just fine, but when i hold it at 15 at WOT it starts jerking steadily and sounds like a boost leak but on the drivers side. what might it be? i soapy water boost leak tested my car with no leaks before i upped the boost.
check again for leaks and spray soapy water if u havent. (saved me hours of trouble spraying soapy water looking for leaks)ignore your bank 2 o2 sensor voltage, front bank is what you need to look at.also mine did the same thing when my intake pipe wasnt connected good to the turbo...
i pressure tested with soapy water and held it pressurized for about 30 seconds. no leaks anywhere (i did have tons of leaks at first and fixed them all)at the T for my boostgauge i ditched the nylon hose and used vaccuum line to run it to the gauge.i ran electrical tape around the T and...
ok before any flames, I HAVE AN AFTERMARKET BOOST GAUGE im just trying to see if it works righti have no leaks (unless there is one at the boost gauge) and im only boosting 10 psi but the gauge is reading 5 psithe stock boost gauge however climbs all the way up to almost the top and...
after fixing alot of boost leaks my hks bov screw popped out some how i guess it pushed out with boost, or it was just too loose. i am NOT venting.... is this a major boost leak i need to fix, or can i just screw any screw that fits into it, or do i need to order another HKS brand screw
i already through that POS away, it came with the car and never worked. well i did the test and found no leaks, except at the back of that bottom tb stud where i had to jb weld it in place, so i 2ton epoxy'd around the back where it comes out to maybe seal it off. ill know in 8 hours if that worked!
fixed boost leaks at all couplers, smic, tb, took all t's and straight throughs out of vaccumm lines so all hoses are 1 piece now..where else can i check for leaks? im pushing right at 5 psi on stock wastegate actuator,any help? thanks in advance::EDIT::
also i am using a thermostat...
looks legit, it only measures pressure so i dont think it just "wont work" i wouldnt use that hose with it though, get vaccuum line and run that instead
my bottom stud on my intake manifold just keeps slipping when i tighten it in.i bought some thread locker and put it on it and put it in and im waiting the 3 hours for it to dry.is that all i needed to get it to tighten so i can tighten my elbow on the TB cause im leaking 5psi out of...