Be sure you are tightening all of the bolts involved. There is one that locks the tensioner bolt. Also check your power steering belt, as I remember it would squeak as a side effect of the alternator belt setting. Avoid the impulse to tighten the siht out of it, which could ruin something. Also...

They send me these from time to time. I'm not affiliated. buy something and you will receive the same. Sad to say but my DSM days have ended.http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1238262&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Some of the deals are really incredible.http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1238262&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Check all of the connectors and wires that control the er umm electronically controlled transmission. I was gonna say something to the effect of checking for codes but I don't know squat about 2g. On 1g, which I know 1/4 of a squat, you check the tcu from different connector than the ecu.

This car was built when? 1991? It's possible you are the first one in there. And it's also very likely that you will be that last. As long as you don't damage anything besides the old mount, you have full authorization to Hack, tear, sawzall that mofo off and weld in a new one.

Even the smallest of leaks will create an unbelievable mess. I had a mystery leak, along with the normal leaks @camshafts, @Valve cover, @oil filler cap, @oil pressure units, etc etc, .eventually I've fixed all of them. The mystery leak was due to a missing bolt for the oil pump housing (waaaay...

At closer look there is a fine even coat of (nice and clean) oil everywhere.

From that picture I'm not seeing alot of oil. did you clean it all off already or is this how you found it? Looks a damn sight cleaner than quite a few pictures posted here. I would expect to find everything dripping with oil if a seal went bad enough to pump out.disclaimer: I don't know...

Now I'm wondering.... At normal level, with the engine off, on any vehicle, is the top edge of the oil pan normally submerged?

I think your oil pan has been over tightened and deformed. top edge of oil pan. Also Are you sure you are not over filling to start with?

Adding a little more fluid fixed it for me.. I was certain I had added enough, but hadn't. For two years we dealt with this, thinking it was due to my low budget rebuild. Somebody at a service station added more when I wasn't around, and now it is awesome. Just don't add too much cause it is...

If your vehicle has been running for any length of time with water instead of coolant, AND has overheated several times or more, you should replace the radiator. It is probably restricted due to calcium carbonate build up in some, or all, of the fine tubing in the radiator. This is a slow...

7 or 8 years ago the old lady's dinged up, heavily oxidized aquamarineROFL/teal 1991 2.0 RS turbo fwd automatic Plymouth Laser, (which she purchased in 2003, for $700, at an auction, with a salvaged title) just died out at a red light. Of course it was turned over numerous times during several...

was key in the ignition? On or off?the idle air control can make all kinds off noises if the ignition was on. Or maybe an abandoned alarm? Had engine compartment or the car been washed recently?

Get a stethoscope as someone already suggested. Or make another longer video while slowly moving your phone around. During the one you posted it definitely gets louder/quieter as you were moving around.

That is the harness for some of the wires that control your transmission. You are missing the circlip that holds it in place. it is a more or less flat piece of metal, shaped like a "U". The inside edges of the U fit into into a groove on the rubber grommet.Push the wires in too far and they...

How long has it been squeaking?Was anyone under the hood for any reason just before you noticed it?When you first noticed it, was it just as loud or has it grown louder over time?

check for leaks at intake snorkle and etc. it is sucking air somewhere.

throw a dollar bill or a pencil in the pic for scale. I'm gonna go with "part of a BOV"?

If I ever got ZERO compression on ALL cylinders the first thing I check is the compression checker.

Haven't re-read the fine details in the post but did have a similar problem and it turned out to be the stock fpr leaking fuel into the vacuum lines.

If you are not handy with a drill then get someone else to do it. Or practice drilling through a sililar sized bolt mounted at an odd angle in a vise to build some confidence. Definitely remove the radiator.What's the worst thing that could happen?You could drill off-center or...

It is a little irritating when you realize that your battery box is full of water. And with out a cover the spark plug "tool-tray" area fills up real fast.

Did anyone mention pb blaster?

Could the fan itself be faulty? Or would that always blow a fuse? Does the same thing happen if you turn on the AC?I don't think the alt normally charges at idle, it should show about 13.5 volts

Sometimes the old seals leave a little crap behind, a little piece of the old seal stuck in the groove. If you did the seals with the head on the car, and didn't check each one with a dental pick, you may have a few new seals that er um, don't seal.

I think he meant "wiring".Sounds like something is out of alignment or bolted on out of whack. Is your parts store (repeatedly) giving you the wrong starter?. Rock Auto specifies "Manual" or Auto" and "Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction?" Don't know wtf that means, but some specify it and some...

Check the one at the bottom of the radiator. There are three sensors on the T-stat housing - one for the gauge that you see, one for the ecu, and one relating to the AC. I think the one on the radiator affects the fans.Also when the AC is <on> both fans should run.

If the HG was just installed, that is probably your culprit.Although it can happen I haven't seen too many posts about the oil cooler failing, unless something was damaged/tightened/changed just prior to the problem.Obviously you must change the oil and complete the compression check. If...

I've never done it myself, but if I was to try it I'd grind the weld off on the end of the flapper shaft where it meets the arm. I think the flapper and shaft would just fall off once the actuator arm is removed

Ice cube trays!Happy Birthday!

whistler muffler - YouTubeWooot

um crack is bad, mmmkay?Sorry I couldn't resist. :D

Have you verified that it CAN be turned over? Maybe you should throw a wrench on the crankshaft (clockwise) to make sure it isn't bound up.

The crappy part about "operating tempurature" is if you don't have enough fluid in it while getting there you can cause damage. Too much fluid = bad, not enough fluid = really bad.Where there any magnets in the pan? Mine had two in the pan and one on the other drain plug. they where over...

How have you done in the past? You must be very lucky.I WAS GONNA SAY:"If the tension is set right you should be able to slide the grenade pin in and out of the tensioner. "but then I read the ENTIRE last post...I about drove myself crazy trying to use the feeler gauge AND the grenade...

What was the dipstick reading before the flush? How well was it operating before the flush? Did you use the right fluid? For sure? After the flush you said it "worked fine"... Did you "flog it" a few times or just drive conservatively? (This is how I messed mine up - now it sliiiiiiiiides...

Wow.... that is some hardball sxxt right there....Is it possible that this guy hung up the phone (after agreeing to sell the car to you) and then told his mom that he had just sold the car (to you)?Though it is quite unlikely there is still a slim chance that the car is still sitting...

Try searching Ebay for " 66-3092" (cardone remanufactured axle)... There are 42 listings ranging in price from: $147.54 - ($60 of which is a refundable core charge with one month warranty) down to: $53.34 - no mention of core charge, and one year warranty?both say "free shipping".

REALLY?glwths

So you have not turned the crank one tiny bit? weird. Gently try turning it Ccw a bit... It if moves at all go back to clockwise slowly and see if you feel any thing make contact.For peace of mind you could drop a wooden dowel or something similar down each spark plug hole to get an idea of...

"Right after a drive " your oil cooler shoulder be quite warm or downright hot, correct? If the droplets you are seeing were straight h20 they would quickly evaporate.Coolant would not.

Verify that the fan(s) are working properly.

"What are some of those "demons"? "....Timing belt and ECU.

I was having similar issues and unpluged/plugged-in/wiggled all the connectors and shazaam problem magically disappeared

check your wiring and connectors. sounds like something is swapped.

Check the fit of the seal on the axle itself before you install it. There are two sizes 35 mm and 37 mm.

Wow I'd give that screw a turn or two just to see what happens. I'm assuming that you have the FIav blocked as well? Even with out an ISC doesn't the biss affect idle?

"If you've added any mods to your car that increase airflow through the engine (especially IC pipes or a frontmount IC), you may have a problem with the car stalling, or the idle oscillating up and down when coming to a stop. One of the most common causes is the BISS screw being out of...

After completely rebuilding a FWD auto I could just barely turn the shaft where the TC goes. It was tight and could not do it much without saying "OW".