These look GREAT!I have a set of solid (aluminum) ones that biglady made for me back when he was still doing favors for our community.I know if it wasn't for the fact that I have what I have, I would love to snatch a set of these.What sucks is that everybody always wants and...

Yeah it's compatible.As stated above..... Use 2 turbo bolts and 2 o2 housing bolts. Just use ARP equivalents for them.Here ----------> http://www.ffwdconnection.com/boltkits.shtml

Hell if this is for cosmetic purposes, You could just wrap the aluminum piping with the carbon fiber with out a lot of added weight. I mean if you add a pound of weight your surely not gonna notice it.I mean look at all the headaches you will solve. You wont need to make molds, Interior will...

If you have access to a Fastenal supply center in your area, you can get oil resistant hose through them in the size you need.They have a HUGE catalog of items. Good stuff man. :thumb:Home | Fastenal

It's really gonna be hard to say what will be right and what will be wrongAre you gonna have a lowered static ride height?Are you gonna have an OEM ride height?Your answer to the above questions will likely determine what bumpstop to use.I'm sure you all ready know, but 10mm of...

If your suggesting that a larger duration camshaft such as a "272" will help promote quicker spool..... Well it won't. Your wrong.I'm not being a prick, Just stating a fact. :thumb:

You could still use that housing. :thumb:Take it to a machine shop and have them drill it open for you. Don't even bother trying it yourself. The amount of time you would invest and the money alone on bits, etc. would cover your machine shop fee.If you don't have a shop around you, Tim...

I don't think you can go wrong with either of those choices. BOTH are great quality hoses. I have used and assembled both brands. Both choices are very durable and extremely flexible. Far easier to handle and assemble then stainless line.the ONLY one thing that pops into my mind worth...

WoW ! WTF You sure your oil pressure is at 5 psi.? Is that a typo/error or something? For your sake I'm hoping it was. :pray:

Not all 99's came with the BLACK interior, BUT 99 was the only year that the BLACK interior was available.

That bracket you made to hold the actuator looks a little flimsy.

Post #172

I'd think the 16cm^2 housing would make for a good combination of quick spool and great top end flow. :thumb:

The Nord Lock washers are more then just a serrated lock washer.............Check out the videos on the website.It is a 2 piece cam lock washer.I have these all over my car.No balance shafts, Prothane side motor mounts and solid front and rear motor mounts tend to vibrate everything...

I think he just worded it wrong........................ I took it as that he was referring to the bolts that hold the turbine housing on the center cartridge.

Regular lock washers suck. :toobad: Loctite isn't going to work for you there either.If you want to do it right, skip the BS and go right to using a Nord Lock washer.They are the absolute best thing when you have a repeated problem with the same fasteners always backing off.Nord Lock...

How did you make out?

You should be able to wiggle it out of there. It will be tight, but when isn't it when working in our engine bays.Make sure to clean the pipe well before installing the new o-ring. Also try to clean and dry the water pump outlet. I personally use a light coat of dielectric grease on the...

Personally, if I had a "Superior" product and I knew it was "Superior" I would make sure the word got out for sure..................And accompanied by that would be an un-biased boatload of information to back that up.Basically what I'm saying is if Albert truely does "know" that he has...

I have a BRAND NEW 16cm T3 housing.If interested, shoot me a PM.

I also used the same oil inlet flange set-up. Used copper spray on both sides of the included gasket and used nord-lock washers underneath the included bolts. :sneaky:

Why not just do it right instead of taking the chance. :ohdamn:Get the bracket kit from RTM Racing.There's know way in hell I would feel comfortable relying on what you want to do.

Curious about what type of control makes the most sense for a direct port methanol injection system.Advantages/dis-advantages of a progressive controller.Does it make sense to use a progressive set-up? Or is this over complicating things?Can a single boost switch be set-up to run...

Use this on the underside (side closest to your heat source) of your aluminum heat shield.AWESOME product!http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=26Edit -----> SORRY.......................... Forgot to post the link. Duh.......................

Is it me , or does that velocity stack not look big enough? WTFIt's covering the majority of the MWE grooves.

Yep, that's all it takes. Hell any type of pliers for that matter. :thumb:

OK. :hmm:Anybody besides kawboy running the 6blade compressor 12blade turbine HX-40 in a .55 a/r turbine housing?Just curious. Thanks.

By the way kawboy........................... I'm not all that far from you. I live in the Lehigh Valley area of Pennsylvania. I'm only a few minutes away from hopping on 78 and about 10-15 minutes overall from being able to cross into Jersey from Pennsylvania.Maybe we'll have to meet up...

Thanks kawboy. I take it these results are from your current set-up?I didn't take a look at your mods, but do you have a built bottom end? Stock? Stock compression ratio? Just curious.Thanks for the 25psi. mentioning. Gives me a good idea of things. I'd like to try to end up at about...

Anybody care to comment or have any input about using an HX-40 with the 6blade compressor wheel and the 12 blade turbine wheel in the BEP .55 a/r housing?Spool-up characteristics on a 2.0, BC 272 cams, 1g TB and JMF street and strip intake manifold on an otherwise stock long block minus ARP...

Hey Ceddy.................... PM sent.Let me know what you think about that.Thanks.

WOW Tim, looking good! :thumb:Amazing work fitting that downpipe in there with it being such a tight radius. :applause:On a side note, If things go as planned this weekend, I'll confirm whether or not there's an issue with the OEM 7-bolt flywheel bolts......... the 21.2mm ones being used on...

Not bad.................. I guess I'll be the first to ask.Any pics? :thumb:

I really like following your posts about the things you fabricate and come up with. You possess some pretty good skills.Keep up the good work and don't forget to keep posting. :thumb:

It would be a 3" outlet.

Did you decide on if you were gonna stick with the 1 piece rotor or go with the 2 piece rotors? That was a little while back I believe....................In one of your threads.I still have a brand new pair of drilled-slotted-zinc washed 13" rotors sitting here. :thumb:

I honestly love the copper spray. :hellyeah:I would shoot a light coat on both sides of the gasket. Wait a few minutes for it to tack up then install.The only thing that sucks is that if you need to take the intake manifold off, you need to clean everything up, remove the copper spray...

You should at minimum try to use one of DEI's heat sleeve or some other fire sleeve type of product to reflect some of the heat away from the line if it's that close/touching the downpipe.I'm pretty sure if the hose is touching the downpipe, it's past it's MAX operating temperature of I...

You want the gauge flat on the surface of the rotor that the pads wear on.Face the gauge so it can be read facing forward or backward. The area that you read should be extended straight out from the magnet.Not like in the above picture of the gauge only.NOT LOOKING DOWN ON IT FROM ABOVE !!!

Hmmmmmm, I'm going out on a whim here and just throwing this out there, But here it goes.My 1st shot in the dark is get a new OEM radiator cap. Maybe your cap is weak and not keeping the system pressurized properly.My 2nd shot in the dark is hose cavitation. It was a slight problem...

Ahhhhhh............... That makes sense now. :aha:I couldn't for the life of me figure out why you were going through this when you posted about having the lifetime warranty.Now I understand.Well, Good Luck, and I hope it comes in tomorrow for you. I'm sure you'll be good to go...

Well, If you have a lifetime warranty on the alternator, It's a no-brainer.............. Just get a replacement and be done.I would have done that right from the onset of the problem.You went through all the taking off and putting back on etc. and the bottom line is your ending up...

Looks like this is your only logical thing to do.If indeed the alternator is not spinning, it's most likely junk.I really don't see how those shops were testing it and it wasn't spinning...........Then the 2nd shop said it was fine......................WTF How. :confused: It wasn't...

Nord-Lock washers work great for bolts that are persistant with backing off.Nord-Lock - Maximum security for bolted joints - HomeIt starts adding up price-wi$e, but well worth it in the long run.

LOL............ Full of WIN here................. Not only can you learn about the ever growing in popularity Holset craze, But you can get schooled on your Chuck Norris facts. LOL LOL LOL

I think you hit the nail squarely on the head. :thumb:A relatively low cost option and a strong reliability factor makes for a nice overall package.

Can you see any corrosion or anything like that where the compressor cover meets with the back plate area of the chra?If so maybe a small wire wheel on a dremel would help get in there and loosen it up so the PB Blaster can work it's way into the lip area where the 2 pieces meet.I...

No man, I hear you............... I'm not trying to be a prick either about it. Didn't mean to come through like that.I'm all for it, if you can get something to work out for you, opposed to buying items that the manufacturers pretty much force you into buying.It would have been nice if...

^^^^^^^^^^ Ahhhh........... That makes sense Justin. I neglected to to recognize the issue of being application specific <----- On what vehicle the turbo originally came off of.I know a few others had experienced problems with seperation issues with their Holsets, and was pleasantly surprised...

Well............... No first hand experience, but I'm sure the Autometer gauge is calibrated to be used with one of their senders.I highly doubt it will be accurate using an OEM sender. I'm a bit surprised it's as close as you say it is.Your best bet is to just replace the Autometer...