4G64 :thumb:

I've purchased parts from MAP and sought advice. They've never disappointed me. They also do have a good reputation locally. They're good people and they know DSM's.

I just mixed and matched the bulbs in the rear to make sure the right ones were lighting up. I've heard you can swap out a control module in the dash for a 2GB one and have everything work perfectly.

It's possible the evo 1-3 might be compatible, but I doubt it.

Just call your local mitsubishi dealer and order a new BISS/Base Idle Screw with the O-Ring. It is literally just a screw that threads into that hole. There is an O-ring around the screw that forms an air tight seal. The screw turns in and out letting more or less air through to adjust your idle...

Worked fine for me!Actually, it doesn't necessarily work that well. If you have open diffs the friction of pressing/rubbing may be enough to stop whatever wheel you're working on. If you only have a read LSD you get stuck switching wheels from front to back to polish all four.Oh...and it's...

Yeah, airplane stripper. You'll probably need to apply it, let it soak, rinse it off and then use a plastic scraper or some other gentle instrument to get whatever is left off. Just be sure not to get any on the tires. It's very corrosive to any petrochemical based material.

BPR6ESBPR7ES if you are running 15+psi.

It would also run right into the fuel tank.

Get a leak down test before rebuilding. It could be that the bottom end is in fine shape and it's just the head that needs work. In that case you'll save yourself a tom of time and money just having the head rebuilt.

Fortunately we have a pretty stout ignition system and don't have to worry so much about weak spark. :thumb:

No, to loosen the belt you loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner pulley. The bolt is off set from the middle so the pulley swings. When you want to retension there are two small holes in it to use the other tool on. You swing it up and towards the center (clockwise) to tension and the...

Sorry, no. I just have that one in my phone and my car is currently 45 minutes away. You really have only 2 options (That I consider reasonable anyway). Hack a hole through the metal where the coolant over flow bottle bolts (just passenger side of the radiator) and make a 90 degree bend off the...

I've never done it with the engine in, but it will be pretty hard to get the lower timing belt cover off with all that stuff in the way. You'll probably want to pull the alternator and really anything else that's in the way. I recommend looking at the VFAQ timing write up.

It shouldn't be a problem to go from 2.25 to 2.5"This picture isn't very clear, but you can see the piping come off the TB elbow and turn down at the front of the engine bay (turn 1). It drops about a foot and turns towards the front of the car (so the pipe goes through where the washer bottle...

I've heard the best results come from using the bypass plate. People seem to like having the lines blocked off, but retaining the function if the ISC. I personally have the full block off and don't mind it, but it is a little rough to start/idle in the cold. Above 50 or 60 degrees it's perfectly...

Get yourself a logger or voltmeter and go out and check the codes..First you title the thread "throwing crazy codes." Then you say "it's not throwing any specific code." Then you go back to "crazy codes." Please get some basic idea of what is wrong. If you just post a simple question with 'my...

So your only code is something to do with coolant temp. Or maybe that's intake temp. Please, clarify. What was the code number or specific title. IE: what is the ecu telling you is wrong?So, you're telling me someone told you your car is frying a portion of the ecu, so you continued to put in...

What codes? What problems? Does the car run and if so how? What have you done aside from swapping ecu's? That's a very vague post.

I made a mistake once and put one of my water pump pulleys on backwards, which caused the alternator belt to be a little crooked and squeal (end eventually break). It's worth a check. Otherwise I would really look into the idler and tensioner pulleys. You don't want those failing on you.

LOL, too true. That's the way it usually goes.And to loosen the belt what you really need is to loosen the bolt on the timing belt tensioner pulley. Of course you'll need the tool to retension. Make sure you line up your timing marks and clamp the belt gently to the cam sprockets. You may...

You're describing the tensioning procedure, which you have to do AFTER correcting the timing issue. First you need to loosen the belt and be sure the timing is correct. Then you deal with the timing belt tension. I'm not sure what your question is about the tension, whether it's about the tool...

No, you want your engine warm. Not hot, but warm. All removing the thermostat will do is make your engine take longer to get to operating temperature and in the process cause excess wear and tear as well as increased fuel consumption. Put in a 180* if you want things a little cooler.

There is a decent chance if it's been on a while and if it's gotten road salt on it you will need air tools. If you don't have access to them continue with the breaker bar and PB blaster method.

It is. If I ever have to remove it to do something (usually for pulling the engine) I don't even bother to plan or account for the time. It's just fast and easy. I do, however, count the cost of fluid, because I'm too anal to reuse it no matter how clean my drain pan is.*edit* Don't get...

I hate to be the first jerk to say it, but SEARCH!And to answer the question, yes it will. It is a little smaller and takes some minor modifications, but it is no different than fitting any other aftermarket pump. Easy as pie. I recommend an evo IX pump. It flows a little more and keeps it...

You simply unbolt the fans (4 bolts per fan) and unhook their wiring. One major wire to either fan and a smaller one to the drivers side fan from the temp sensor in the bottom of the radiator. You then drain all the fluid and disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses (just worm clamps...

If you get one of the vacuum pumps that has a solid hand pump with gauge and reservoir it should work well. I had to add some electrical tape around the threads of the reservoir to keep a perfect seal. That way if you have to do it alone you can create and maintain a good vacuum and be assured...

Oh shoot, sorry I missed that.

The size is a measure of the actual bolt thickness and the thread pitch. You can find the same measurement bolts with all kinds of different size and types of heads. If you're stuck and want to be sure go to the hard ware store and buy plain bolts in the sizes listed above and screw them in...

Not likely in a 1990.

Mine spends half it's life lying on the passenger side carpet. No problems.

If you are facing the front of the car (looking directly at the intercooler) mine has on:Left side: 1 90 degree bend towards the passenger compartment. Once past the radiator 1 90 degree bend upwards, then one 90 degree bend back towards the passenger compartment (the straight pipe off that...

Pretty easy. The inner mounts are kind of tricky, the rear bumper mounts need to be trimmed. You should change the inner fender well covers, but it's not entirely necessary. The lighting is a little different, but can be mostly handled with some bulb swapping. A couple accessory type lights...

It sounds like it's a good time to do a boost leak test if you found as many problems as that. Go through that whole engine and check for leaks and any other problems you can find. I too would agree 14 psi on thta turbo should be ok IF everything else is working right, but throw a few boost...

What now? Post pictures.

Check your O2 sensor. Check base timing. Check compression. Do a tune up.

Put a volt meter to the fan wiring and figure out if it's got power and which is positive. I unfortunately can't remember color coding on that right now. Of course the car has to be warm for this to work.You can also push the AC button and should have power to the secondary fan wiring and...

Meh, come drive my miata once. 4k rpm at those speeds. My Talon seems damn low every time I get in it.

That's good to know. I've also read in a few places that the evo's adjust voltage to the fuel pump based on flow needs. I wonder how much of their lack of over run is due to that and how much is the FPR.

I would really like to know which fuel rail it bolts to and if it truly flows more than the stocker. I'm a cheap bastard and don't want to spend $200 on a FPR, but I also want to go E85 which means more flow. Might just be the new popular budget mod.

If you are running stock boost you should be just fine. Rewiring the pump is never really "necessary." It's just a great way to get more flow, but at stock boost on a 16g you don't need to worry about that. You'll want to turn up the boost though, which means you should probably go ahead and...

And because the vented correction feature is a pile of steaming cow shit designed for ricer boys to feel better about treating their cars improperly so they can sound cool.

LOL @ removing the MAF so that your vented BOV doesn't screw up the reading on the MAF.But yes, you need either a MAFT setup or speed density if you want to vent. Do not do it on the stock MAF. I don't care if it "runs ok." If you want your car to run right you need accurate air metering. You...

A little blurry and the bumper has a dent, but here's some pictures of mine a year or two ago.

No, it won't. It is smaller so you will have to use a hose clamp or something else to secure it and the electrical connectors are different so you will have to make a trip to radio shack. It will also help to hack up the rubber piece that holds the pump in so that it helps secure the VIII pump...

He means his exhaust ends at the downpipe. Nothing beyond it. The lack of back pressure will help the turbo spool easier.

The fuel pump should not effect the cars starting and running at all. It may run a little rich at low load, but that is it. You have another problem to find.

Oh, I don't doubt that, I'm just curious. Looking for a little more explanation maybe.

I've only ever done the elimination on a clean and undamaged engine, but I would think that even if the journal had some scoring You could still press it in. You may have to smooth things out a little before doing so, but the goal is simply to have it fit toght and block oil so as long as you...