transmission computer

I have 1mm on intake and exhaust, they went in with no issues

selling a 95 gst, 133xxx, new top end, timing etc. electrical problem causing a no start. motor is good, just need it gone

I swap cars here all the time. hand write a bill of sale. put the date, cars vin number and write current title owners name does hereby relinquish vehicle on this date to write your name, then you sign your name and have someone else forge owners name. works everytime

Raleys and Bel Air carry it in the natural food section for 3 bucks a pound

He can bypass the readiness part and continue with the test and after it blows clean at the end it will void out the readiness monitors and pass, I went thru this with my 98 gsx in CA

Are you letting the test finish or is the guy telling you it wont pass and aborting the test? If hes aborting it tell him to finish the whole test, at the end the computer will automatically bypass the readiness monitors. There is a service bulletin for our ecus, its not in his paperwork but is...

top pic is your coolant sensor. gonna have to get a wiring terminal kit and fid the size that fits

Ok took it apart and found that my ACT 2900 had spit its springs after 500 miles. Sp heres the question the flywheel and pressure plate have some heat marks on them, is there a way to prep and reuse them?

Ok transmission is humming/marbling on deceleration in gear whether clutch is in or not. I dont notice it on acceleration, but all gears do it on deceleration with no change with the clutch depressed. So I took off the tranny end cover to check the buts for the 5th gear fix mod per VFAQ and when...

every gatorback belt Ive ever used has squeeled, switch to oem belts, their cheaper and squeel free:hellyeah:

just unbolt and put the new one on, itll spill a lil gas no biggie

I dont think your gauge is working.

I dont know of any front mount kits that delete power steering cooler.

www.jnztuning.com

a plastic bottle cap will work just as well or a pipe fitting from a hardware store.

Ive always tested ecus without mounting them.

I have the same electronics as you plus a bunch more, also with my battery in the trunk. Im still on the factory 60 amp and have a consistant 13.6 volts. I would lean towards you having a problem other than amp rating.

I actually removed new oem ones to use these they seem to last longer and leak less often. Also Im probably gonna be in Sac tomorrow if you want me to take a look. Shouldnt take long to get it runnin.

try these they work perfect. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/234729-1g-2g-cheaper-fuel-injector-insulators.html

running for 3 seconds and dying is a classic tell tale sign of a dead cas. I would just plan on replacing it. zip tie the cam to the belt in a couple places, then compress the timing belt tensioner and remove just the intake cam.

Its on its last leg man, but changing it out really only takes about an hour. Couple bolts and lines not bad at all.

Hey bro Im in yuba city and Im basically the local traveling dsmer lol. If you want I could come take a look this weekend.

I agree its the throw out bearing and be sure to replace with an OEM one because if you use a different brand youll just end up having to do it again very soon lol.

It sounds like a boost leak causing you to hit fuel cut. Also your pulling alot of fuel for the size of injectors your running. I would check fpr for being over run and what fuel pressure are you set to?

95s are obd2 hence the eprom ecu working in all the 2nd gens

WHen you installed the fuel pump did you make sure to put on the spacer, o ring and cap so it will build pressure in the lines instead of pumping back into the tank?

Warped rotors will shutter and shake when braking.

Sounds like a failing cam sensor.

There are not the same and in no way interchangable:D

your shifter balance weight is hitting your radiator hose

try a new o ring on your dipstick or slightly pinching the tube. Common problem, these cars like to launch the dipstick on boost.

ALL 95s ARE OBD2

take off the cam cover and try it. Sounds like its warped from heat and rubbing your timing belt

The info you gave me said to add stft to ltftlo and that would give me the adjustment. I was just following the formula. Knock is improving and I really appreciate the help Jeff.Ok I adjusted the sliders as you suggested and drove all day. ltft lo seems to be about zeroed out but ltft mid is...

Ok here are some logs with all the stated changes made. Idle and 3rd gear pull.

I did those pulls before I saw your post. My base timing is at 5 degrees. Accorsing to your formula for adjustments I added 19 tp the 50 slider and 17 to the 150 slider.

update. did blt and its good, did compression check and its good. new plugs today. Attaching an idle log and 3rd gear log. question, Im showing knock in the same area but now my boost gauge which is set to knock doesnt move and the check engine light doesnt flash, so shouldnt those 2 things...

Its stock now cause I had to smog I have a 255 going back in. It is rewired though and Im only boosting 14lbs. Ive read through Jeffs page numerous times but all Im seeing on the link you sent is how to adjust a rev MAFT?

My last log has stft and ltft on it and they are maxed out but on my logger there not why the variation? And I dont see anything on link that says coast fc? And furthermore the only thing for fuel trims I see on jeffs page are if you have a maft which I do not so its no help to me.

Oh sweet lord. Ok Im not retarded, this is my 8th dsm and all of them were built to one degree or another and Ive never had anything done on these cars that i didnt do myself. My timing is on mechanical wise I check it every 2 weeks or so, same as I check for boost leaks, check fluids and plugs...

Everything maintanence wise is in check. I checked it with my palm n stein logger and its showing stft at between-4 and +8 at idle and ltft at +12 at idle iks there a setting on dsmlink that Ive missed that would give me the high readings its giving?

fuel pressure is at 43 psi with line disconnected and o2 sensor is bouncing up and down as it should. I have my dead time at 315 which is what the manual calls for and global at 38 which where that should be. What general area should my fuel trims be at? Even with prolonged driving theres was...

stock pump rewired, rc 750s and aeromotive fpr set to factory pressure. If it was truely running that rich wouldnt there be bogging or the smell of fuel or even black smoke between shifts? Its actually running great and smooth and I havent heard knock which have heard on previous cars. What do...

I am using our best which is 91 octane, and Im using a greddy profec set to boost 50 percent over stock so Im not sure what size wastegate comes with a big 16g but I assume its probably a 10 so 15lbs might be right. I was running at night outside temp was low 60s figured that would help with the...

oh yea boost leak test was done recent no leaks. Also how do I view short and long fuel trims?

Autometer guage is at 17-18psi. How do you adjust the the maf for boost? Currently on stock sidemount.

mods in profile are up to date, Im adding fuel to try to change the knock, it was higher before.

New to tuning, hows this look?

put a hand pump vacuum like for brakes on the wastegate nipple and see if it holds vacuum. If your actuator is shot replacing it would be your cheapest and easiest option.