Just take off the ball and shift with the stick.But on a lighter note, the 2g turbo leather shift knob works great. It is weighted, it looks great and it threads on all OEM mitsubishi.
Great start! At least you get to bring the car back to great DD/fun status. I shall subscribe to this! Keep the pictures coming, as every little thing is great.
Good job on bringing the car back up to pace! It is a long road of swapping parts and swearing!For future reference, I believe the urban dictionary PC term is "interfooler".
The seals are just rubber grommets, on the fuel rail end and head end. Napa should supply them for the stock injectors. If they are out of THAT part, look at the EVO 8/9 injector o-rings as they are the exact same.
Oh boy. If it is something that solid, I would un-install and make sure you have everything in its proper place. There could be 38108 things that "could" be resolved. Take it apart, and put it back together slowly and check your torque specs.
Yeah....this is probably a start of some sort of problem associated with your tire size. A two inch difference is HUGE. They say even a a few 32nd's on your tire wear can cause problems. At the rate your tires were spinning between the front and the back, I am actually surprised nothing...
A 255 pump with no pressure regulator? At the least I would throw an older B&M unit on there. One that is made from a OEM Turbo core.Or scale it down a bit and get a 190lph. That will be plenty and you can get by without a regulator.
Does the profec come with a boost solenoid like the AVC-R? That one just routes the same way as an MBC, with one line going to a pressure source (usually j-pipe) and the other for the wastegate pressure reading.EDIT: Here you go! Same setup like my AVC-R.
Many hose applications are available. Depending on what you need, you will have to source either rubber or plastic PVC style flexible hosing. I found some at Home Depot for under $2 per foot.I have seen the rubber ribbed style that lots of cars are using, and that seems to work the best...
I'm all down for camo, though I feel the pattern looks like confetti. Perhaps it won't stand out as much when the engine is is. Great work so far, though. It is great to see peoples ideas!
You are going to see more pressure in the block, and less as the oil travels further. It is monitored at the block as a fail safe so that if anything happens, you will know right away.
Are you just wanting to measure the oil at the turbo specifically?
Check to see if it is an engagement issue. To see if it grabs, put it in 3rd and slowly let out the clutch. If it starts to die, the clutch is engaging properly. Do the same thing in 2nd. It sounds like when you start to drive it, your problem happens.
If you need parts, try some local forums. I know here in Wisconsin, we have a myriad of part out vehicles in really good shape. This site and community have all that you need! Welcome, and enjoy the ride!
No. The 2g's use upper A-arms and the 1g does not. The struts are also different measurements, and have different mount points.There is a plethora of suspension options for a 1g.
Maintenance is key. Make sure ALL of the required fluids and belts are changed and kept up on. This is the most important part of any DSM. If something is wrong, FIX IT right away.Search around on this site for any relevant information regarding any aspect of your build. Whatever you...
A squealing can mean too tight of a belt also. Keep that in mind. This problem does seem linked to having a load on the engine and your charging system.You do not have any mods listed in your profile. If you have a logger, or even a turbo timer take a look at the voltage when you give it...
Fuel cut doesn't feel like a loss of power, it feels like slamming into a brick wall.
Many, many cars both 1g and 2g's alike have run 15 psi on the stock fuel system. If you are experiencing problems, I suggest that you invest in some sort of logging device (palm, laptop or other) and post up...
You are going to need all of your supporting modifications before slapping on a turbo.
Fuel pump, injectors, ECU, etc........You are possibly better off finding a turbo DSM and keeping this one as a DD.Also, an EVO 8 turbo is flipped, and it will never bolt up.
A LOT of times places will not sell them individually or as a set of 2. You need to purchase the entire turbo kit now. I just had to replace mine on my EVO 8 and Talon, and had to turn to JNZTuning.JNZ Tuning
I'm happy this thread exists!
I wanted another HKS on my current car, because I had borrowed one and loved it. My current V3 flutters just like this. Although a bit slower, it made me think of surge. I'm glad that you guys have the same issues and nothing is wrong. Keep on boostin', everyone!
Yeah, it's an old thread. My clutch pedal is also missing this little rubber stopper. I tried my launch and just went to the rev-limit. Does anyone know if this has a part #? If not, I'll find a shell. Thanks for any help!
Thank you Steve! I did try, and have actually been searching this site through google on my phone. I clicked the link, but must have overlooked it. I do apologize, as I am also one to harp on the search feature. Have a great day!
DSMlink uses the same socket for the chips for EPROMs and old school TMO chips correct?
I'm looking at a local 92 ECU and the link chip looks just like my EPROM.Thanks for any of this random info anyone can give.
If you aren't sure on the quality of the turbo, stick with the 14b, get some injectors and burn a chip with your parameters. The mods you listed & the availability of the 255 pump will allow you to run more boost safely. 550's and a matching EPROM setup will have your car idling/performing...
EDIT: I suppose I am retarded. They do make a 1G Thermal Exhaust. Where the hell have I been?As for your question, yes. You will experience some creep. The exhaust is free-flowing now and your exhaust gas is exiting the car quicker. That will cause your turbo to spool quicker with less...
Many people on here will ask you why you are concerned about venting your bov. It just turns into a show off valve, thus defeating it's purpose.You, like many people enjoy hearing the car and it's capabilities. Make sure you do recirculate any bov you do choose.
Are you sure your ECU is bad from hooking up a battery incorrectly? There is a master fuse for this accident alone. Same thing if you arc on the electrical system, it blows the fuse before anything else.The 1g fuse is an 80A.
Different sets cause a T-case failure? Oops. I run free tires that I get from work. The sizes are the same, but brands differ. I have never bought a tire before, and have put 20k on just this one DSM.Match your tire sizes. That is important.
Many people run the cometic head gasket. It offers OEM capabilities and can still handle high output.
But, as the user above me said - what are your plans? You might want to look into headstuds as well.
Kei, what does your most recent post mean?Should the consensus of the current Mods have been towards promoting you?
If they feel that lofty has brought a good direction for the site (and community), then why should that be disapproved?
I think you have a great start on giving the community something to look forward to. 1g's do require subtle accents. Your designs do just that.
Be prepared to sell a lot of these.
Your vac is low. When the car is held at 3k it is significantly more, but the car also runs fine.I think this is a mechanical problem. Electrical doesn't really care about engine speed and things of that nature. If it is going to work, it is or isn't. Electric items can short and cause...