So I'm STILL dealing with this stupid issue. I've just had it on the back burner cause I had to rebuild my engine and transmission and I've just been disconnecting the battery negative. But engine is in and time to get this electrical garbage figured out.So I feel that the wire that's going...
I had to just go to the parts store and find one that matched as close as possible and the trimmed to shorten it. No idea what hose it even was. Someone else might be able to give a better answer.
Was hoping to report back with some good news tonight but I had two issues when I took the car out for a test drive. One, the speedo isn't working so have to figure that out. Kept being limited to around 4-5k rpm so had to shut off the forced four and rely on my Kiggly blue wire mod and B&M...
I have no idea really what I'm even looking at but I'll try them out. Lol. I was shifting right around 9k myself. Glad we have a clarification on "high rpm's".
Guess I'll either have to get home to open the program to get some sort of idea for what goes where unless you care to take a picture. Unsure if this would differ from 1g to 2g. Thank you though.
Checking in but anyone have any good settings for cruising? I've been down awhile but ready to go again. Previously I was having an issue where I was cruising in 2nd and if punched the throttle, I would get a 2 to 1 gear, and then back to 2nd. Not much fun.I was informed to upload the most...
I'm not at home to look at logs and probably won't be able to for a good minute cause I'll have company over and going camping over the weekend.But I'll say that if it's not starting you might need more deadtime. The first log showed trims at 16 (from what memory recalls at my old age) which...
You're not logging your sensors like wideband, map, iat, etc. Need that stuff setup first. Your trims show lean but I can't remember if you're simulating the stock O2 or not.
Have to look at the logs. Can't remember. About to head out for new plugs though. And yeah, I'm sure this isn't a difficult situation to remedy. Just wasn't sure if anyone else was adjusting so was just curious more than anything.
Ecmlink. And yeah, it's working. Brand new and can hear it when the key is on as well. Just wasn't sure if I was the only one ever having to adjust it. Lol. Usually I hear of people with too high of idle.
So just wondering if anyone ever adjust the throttle stop to help with idle. I have a new isc, fiav blocked off on a 74mm S90 and I know it might take a minute to get it warmed up. But it takes WAAAY too long and will still stall sometimes (auto) after blipping the throttle. The biss is all the...
The one wire that got replaced due to being a bit too toasty in an engine fire a few years ago fixed my issue. Just have to button everything up now. Shew!!!Guess this post can be closed up now. Thanks y'all.
Yeah, everything else is getting power. But not sure if the noid light isn't flashing when I spin the cas housing because it needs the crank as well.I guess if I put it all back together again and it doesn't work, it's back to the drawing board. 🤞
Thank you! Been struggling to get that answer from anyone and didn't wanna put this sucker back together until I was sure.Oh, and 98 sensor with Kiggly 2 tooth trigger plate on the crank with 98 cas sensor there as well.
I finally fixed that wire, but when I rotate the cas by hand, no flash of the noid light I have in the #4 injector plug.I checked voltage and that's at 12 volts at the cas. But have 5 or 6 volts at the signal wire that goes to pin 88. With it unplugged from the cas. Can ANYONE tell me if this...
Had an engine fire a few years ago. After digging and digging, I found a wire that I missed for the power to the CAS that was pretty beat up looking. Gonna replace that portion and then hopefully be good to go. Crossing fingers.
Well, currently my thinking is that my ecu is just being funky and working when it wants to and pin 10 not firing at the moment.Pin 4 at the ptu has me scratching my head as well because I thought the voltage would vary and be sent TO the ecu. Not showing 6 volts from the ecu on that pin. Can...
No fire at pin 10 at the ecu now for some reason. This ecu recently came back from Ecmlink but anything else aside from the ecu that y'all can think of that would be causing the issue? Maybe that's why I'm pulling my hair out.
Thinking about it, would the MPI relay even be bad if the fuel pump is turning on when starting? And is it normal for Pin #4 (tach wire) at the PTU plug to have 6 volts with the PTU disconnected and just testing for voltage at the plug? Just trying to think of all possibilities to check for...
I'm so annoyed. I ran a wire from the ptu plug to the coil plug to bypass the original wiring for the coil that fires 1&4, and it FINALLY fired up for the first time with this new engine on all 4 cylinders. Great, now let me pull the bypass wire off, pull the intake manifold and injectors off...
Can't remember what exactly I tested at the wires and how. A bit sleepy. Needed a break today though before I decided to light it on fire. I'll report back though.
Back to stock ignition at the moment, but this has been an intermittent, REALLY annoying issue. Thinking I have a short somewhere. I have power at the ptu now, but no fire on 1&4. I've replaced the one coil. I've tried multiple ptu's. Tested the cas and crank sensors. Tested for signal at 10 &...
Replaced engine and then was only running on 2 cylinders on first start. Trying to diagnose and now for some reason, no power to the PTU at all. PTU has been tested and is good. Just no power going to it. Checked fuses under the hood. Fuel goes to the rail though so assuming MPI isn't the issue...
Right, but the problem I have is that I have 12 volts at the coil plug. But if I have to also connect a wire to the ptu that's 12 volts, I'm unable to find where that wire is that supplies 12 volts.
Heck, I'm getting feedback from everywhere I can to make sure I understand this crap. Lol. Not understanding it is how ecu's get burned up.....again. And I still don't know what to do with that power wire at the moment. Only place I'm getting 12 volts right now is at the coil plug. So guess I'm...
So I'm a bit confused on the black/white power wire at the moment. Right "now" on the coil plug, I have 12 volts on the bottom wire, with no ptu. So if I were to cut that wire and connect to the ptu plug instead to deliver that power, then how does the coil plug now get power???
I deleted my ptu due to issues I was having and going with a M&W ignition and coil-on plug setup. However, I think the M&W might be having issues and so want to send it off for inspection and use stock coils instead. But can someone please verify if this is correct on wiring it back in so I...
Guessing I'm not? Not sure how that part of it works.My plug on the harness was all falling apart. So unless someone had a plug end/pigtail for me to wire in, I guess I'm stuck for the moment.
Bring back from the dead because I can't find any related threads yet. But I have an M&W Pro-12 but I'm thinking it's bad. I've deleted my PTU and want to send the box back for inspection (due to terrible voltage fluctuations in Ecmlink only when the M&W is plugged in), and use the stock coil...
I just shift it into 3rd (no power to the solenoids), turn on the shift box, and go. If I wanna use the ratchet shifter, I just turn off the box and shift to whatever gear manually.
P.S. Oh, and I think I have another post regarding the Forced Four......I think. Since the beginning of this post, I have since upgraded to the Smart 150 which is a way nicer piece in every way. I never knew how many extra features I could have over the old box I had that only programmed the...
Good time to ask that question actually.So I'm taking the car to the track this Friday and I'll see how it does. I put in a new engine and had to fix some things on my transmission. It's always something but hopefully it'll stay together for awhile. There's a new firmware update so I did...
This is the first time doing it and I'm not really sure which ports I need to be checking and pressures to look for. I've checked the FC port and in 1st gear it's bouncing around 160-170 or so. Checked RC port and in 3rd gear at idle speed it's at 80 psi. No idea what pressures I should really...
Have a feeling he's just looking at fuel trims. Still important for us to know what the "wideband" reads though so we know he's not trying to have a cookout inside the cylinders.If you are, I'll take my steaks medium done. Thanks!
John from Performance Partout told me this today after discussing the issue with him. I ordered some used ones they had in good condition because I don't have time to wait a month. So if you need any a bit faster, he may have some here soon.