I just remembered, I hadn't opened up the throttle body plate, which would probably explain why it was coming back into that other cylinder(since it shouldn't have been able to go pass the plate). I'll have to tell him that we'll be pulling the head one way or another.

sorry about that, i corrected it ;)oh, and my step-father(who worked on plane engines in the air force, and now retired, works on small engines) said that when air is leaking like that(from one cylinder to another opposite cylinder, it could be a good sign that the valve is burned or slightly...

Alright guys, so I did the leak down test(twice, to make sure my results were the same twice since i hadn't done this before), but not with an actual leak down tester, since none of the auto stores in my area had one in stock. It was all 3-5 day wait periods. I did it with the compression tester...

I should be able to do a leak down test with my compressor, just using the compression tester hose(after removing valve so air can flow in, not just out), as long as i can adjust the pressure coming through the compressor hose correct? None of the places in my town have a leak down tester in...

Thanks. Yeah, he says he hasn't really noticed a loss in power, but he said there's a light stutter under moderate acceleration while boost spools up, just for a second or two, then goes away when its boosted. I don't know if that is a head gasket sign(maybe cause of the small amount of...

im hoping you are right haha i might have to see if any local auto parts stores do loaners on leak down testers. i was thinking the same thing on two cylinders a next to each other being both low. i dont see any oil or coolant disappearing, there probably wouldn't be if its just leaking...

i ran the numbers on his motor again today(with mpi and all plugs pulled this time). on a warm engine, the numbers(from air filter to timing belt) are 170-140-130-183....i added some oil to the middle cylinders and ran them again. they were then 170(using previous...

alright, cool. i'll have to try that next time i swing to his place. leaving the injectors powered up(not pulling that fuse), and leaving the other spark plugs in while doing the test wouldn't affect each individual cylinders then?im thinking it shouldn't be rings...his car has always been...

so i just ran my first compression test on a friends eclipse this evening. here are the numbers i got at WOT(from air filter side to timing side), the car was warm.155-140-120-165.now, i didnt pull the MPI (MultiPort Injection) fuse because that wasnt listed int he compression test...

i just noticed something like this the other day too, but only when i came to a stop and only heard it once or twice int he last few weeks....when i come to a stop at a stop sign, just before the car idles completely down(it stays about 200-300rpms above idle for a sec with my manual...

i thought id bring this thread back by saying, so mine does the same thing...i checked fuel pressure...right on the mark to factory #'s. If the return fuel gasket was leaking on the pump, would it show up the fuel pressure gauge? i would think not since it is located before the regulator, and...

I didn't think so.Anyone have any ideas as to what would cause that then, could it be the temp sensor? Maybe assuming it was warmer then it really is, thus letting to much air in and dieing because of it?

is it completely normal for the car to stutter and die the first time you start the car on a cold morning(around 30 degrees or colder)? i only notice this now and then

i've read that from some people, and then I've read from others that the 1g's dont prime and the 2g's do. I believe i've heard mine prime before(never really paid attention before)...but now that it's acting up I don't hear it anymore. does anyone know what would cause this problem otherwise?

So, I have a 1997 Eclipse GST Spyder, 5 speed transmission, that is completely stock. The car runs almost flawless (with 76k original miles).Now my problem is when I start my car when its cold out (under probably about 35 degrees) it will start, stutter at low rpms, then die with in a second...

no, I replaced them with those already last summer, thanks for the suggestion though.

I only wish I could find a good top from a yard around here...but that's not gonna happen. I need to come up with another company to try...no way am I buying a mits top from a mits dealer($5000, comes with EVERYTHING for the top of the vehicle, including interior cover...ect). Anyone have any...

See, it wasn't hard to replace, just having that clearance issue. What brand top did u go with?

so I bought a Ez-on top...put it on...fit great...tested it going up and down...the glass is catching on the brace behind the rear seat...tried adjusting the top...still having the issue...took it to a shop, had them try installing it...same problem...contacted ez-on tops...after about 3 1/2...

if it's 11mpg, and rich...I would bet that it's the front o2. can't tell you much on that check engine light though

I would say it's time to change out your O2 sensor

I tried the foot on the gas once, and it started better, but not prefectly. I'll give it a shot..have to see if the dodge dealer can order one(unfortunately the mits dealer is over 2 hours away :/) thanks

alright guys and gals, I'm having a small problem. I have a COMPLETELY STOCK, NEVER MODDED 1997 Eclipse Spyder GST with manual transmission just about to roll over 69K actual miles. In the mornings when I go to start my car, and it starts and stalls instantly. Turn it over the second time it...

well cold weather will make your mileage drop, but I don't know if its been cold enough for that lately(I live in wisconsin)....is there a check engine light on? could be an o2 sensor going out...

ya, I have read that already, but it didn't have any info I need...thanks though....anyone have any other ideas if I'm missing anything when I'm trying to lift this rear bow out so that I can pull the staples out of the back of the top to get it off the rest of the way??so I got it out with...

alright guys, I've been working on changing my convertible top tonight. I would have it off ALMOST, if I hadn't broke my drill bit drilling out the 2nd side tension cable. but my problem, other than that, is how do you get that rear bow pulled up and out(that's got the end of the top attached...

alright, so my rear window on my convertible top is starting to pull out...thinking I need to replace that soon before winter gets here(Wisconsin)...I'm thinking the EZ-ON brand is the way to go from what I can read. Am I right to go with that brand? Also, what place has these for the best...

alright, so my rear window on my convertible top is starting to pull out...thinking I need to replace that soon before winter gets here(Wisconsin)...I'm thinking the EZ-ON brand is the way to go from what I can read. Am I right to go with that brand? Also, what place has these for the best...

awesome, thanks. You don't by chance have those torque specs for the bolts do you?? my Haynes manual doesnt' cover the torque specs for those bolts...atleast not that I can find.

I do have a service manual, but it doesn't cover the oil filter bracket...so it doesn't give me the torque ratings on the bolts. thanks for everyones help though. I should be getting the piece today via ups...

thanks guys!! anyone know the torque ratings on those bolts? and ya, I already picked up a set or ratcheting wrenches...and can't believe I ever worked on my car without them!! do you put any thread sealant on that big bolt that holds the oil cooler to the bracket, so that it doesn't come off?

awesome thanks. I never even saw it on extreme psi when I looked earlier! again, thanks!

Well I fiqured the dealer or junkyard, but I was wondering if anyone knows any aftermarket places that carry them, because the junk yards around here never have a turbo DSM in them, and rarely a non-turbo. I've never changed one of these before, and all my hanes manual shows is just the oil...

Alright guys and gals. I have a problem. I need to find an oil filter housing for my car. I got a 97 eclipse GST. It cracked around the oil pressure sending unit and spewing oil out. how do you change those, I can't find it in my repair manual anywhere, and what price are they?? where can...

yah, Im thinking that power wire for the amp had to be shorting out somewhere...RIGHT by the wiring harness, causing power to keep flowing into the wiring harness from that power cable...or something like that....all I know, is it's been working right all evening, so I hope thats all it was!!

ya it wasn't the ignition switch. previous owner had wired the remote power wire for a sub, he had installed before he sold it to me, to the fuse box...and just wrapped it around the fuse for the gauge display....I'm guessing there was a short somewhere in that wire or something and it was...

alright, so I put the new ignition switch in, didn't do a darn thing. I'm thinking maybe the ignition control module?? anyone else have any ideas??

alright, all I gotta do now is fiqure out how to change it!! lol I've never done one...always stuff in the engine area...any one have a link on how to change them?

I've been trying to find a link on changing them, but I can't find one anywhere...you know where I can find instructions???? and advance auto parts and autozone has ignition switches for around 40

alright I will thanks. you know how hard it is to change the ignition switch? is it going to change what key my car is keyed for?

alright, I'll go start it again(once it stops raining) and try it. Hopefully it'll shut off fine.

ya, it seems to start fine, it just doesn't shut off, so I pull the engine fuse. But the indicator lights stay on on the car.

could it be an ignition solenoid?

so I get home from work tonight, pull up to the garage and turn the car off to clean stuff out quick. Clean the car out, pull it over to where I park it and turn the key off and pull them out...but now the cars still running!! I turn it off by pulling the fuse for the engine.what would...

alright, so I'm trying to replace my power antenna motor and mass, but I'm having a problem. I can't get the little chrome nut that goes around the antenna mass off. it is the one on the fender, with 4 grooves, one on each side. I've tried using screw drivers to try and turn it off, but no...

well I had to get a whole new antenna and motor, thats why I was removing it...and the motor and antenna came with the new antenna nut, so I didn't even bother worrying about scratches...at that point I busted out the good old vice grips and went to work...came right off after a little...

hmmm....I just called my local auto shop, and they said they had nothing....maybe I'll have to run up and actually take a look. I don't think vice grips would work to well...the edge seems pretty rounded. but thanks, I'll try it.

alright, so I'm trying to replace my power antenna motor and mass, but I'm having a problem. I can't get the little chrome nut that goes around the antenna mass off. it is the one on the fender, with 4 grooves, one on each side. I've tried using screw drivers to try and turn it off, but no...

ya, I gathered taking the tray off, I'll have to look at maybe changing it again tomorrow since I have off. thanks for the help and info